t LIMARY'OF CONGllESS. # 

# 

JUMTED 8TATES OF AMEiaCA.^ 



/■ 



'ii 



JOURNAL 



KACHEL WILSON MOORE, 

i; 

KEPT DURING A TOUR TO THE 

WEST INDIES AND SOUTH AMERICA, 
IN 1863-64. 

WITH 

NOTES FROM THE DIARY OF HER HUSBAND; 

TOGETHER WITH 

HIS MEMOIR, 



aEORQE TRUMAN, M.D. 

1 ..-' u / 



O-nr'v., .. ^O^'^" 



PHILADELPHIA: 
T. ELLWOOD ZELL, PUBLISHER, 

Nos. 17 & 19 S. Sixth St. 

1867. 

7?1 rv. 






o 






SHERMAN & CO., PRINTERS. <^ 






CONTENTS. 



CHAPTER I. 

PAGE 

The Yoyage — Nassau, 9 



CHAPTER II. 

Havana — Slaves and Slave-ships — Churches — Vehicles, . 21 

CHAPTER III. 
Matanzas — Cave of Bellamar, 41 

CHAPTER lY. 

Negro Amusements — Trip to Manito — Private Hospi- 
tality, 52 

CHAPTER Y. 

Voyage to St. Thomas — Slavery — Corals, ... 59 

CHAPTER VI. 

Religious Meetings — Santa Cruz — Insurrections in the 

Islands, 82 



vi CONTENTS. 



CHAPTER VII. 

PAGE 

Frederickstadt— St. Croix — Vice and Immorality, . . 103 



CHAPTER VIII. 

Beauty of the Roads — Coolies — Bassin, or Christian- 

stadt — Visit to the Governor, 115 



CHAPTER IX. 

Schools — Sugar-Grinding — Drives — Visiting Plantations 
— Mount Washington — Mount Victory — Harbor — 
Streets — Markets — Birds — Game, .... 126 

CHAPTER X. 
Departure — St» Thomas — Trip to Barbadoes, . . . 145 

CHAPTER XI. 

Barbadoes — St. Vincent — Landing at Demerara — Drives 

— Departure j ; . v . ' . . . .158 

CHAPTER XII. 

Return to Barbadoes — Description of the Country — Kind- 
ness and Hospitality — Friends' Burying-grounds — 
Religious Meetings, i , . . . . . 174 

CHAPTER XIII. 

St. Vincent — Grenada — Trinidad — Coolies, . . . 192 



CONTENTS. vii 

CHAPTEK XIY. 



PAGE 



Barbadoes— St. Vincent— Burial at Sea— Martinique- 
Dominica— Guadeloupe— Antigua— St. Kitt's— Ke- 
turn to St. Thomas, 204 

CHAPTER XY. 

Farewell— The Keturn Home, ...... 220 

CHAPTER XYI. 

Conclusion, ........ 228 



Memoir of John Wilson Moore, M.D., . . .253 



JOURNAL 



OF 



RACHEL WILSON MOORE. 



CHAPTER I. 

The Voyage — Nassau. 



Having been absent during the summer of 
1863 for the purpose of improving impaired 
health of myself, when, on returning from the 
Catskill Mountains, instead of being benefited, 
fever, cough, and lassitude took hold of the 
system to that extent that we believed nothing 
short of going to a warmer climate, before the 
commencement of winter, would prove availing. 

After making all necessary arrangements for 
the voyage, we took passage from the port of ISTew 
York the fourth of twelfth mo., 1863, on board the 

2 



10 JOURNAL. 

Corsica, Captain Lemesurier commander, at ten 
o'clock, on second day. Many of our friends 
accompanied us to the ship, remaining with us 
several hours, under feelings of great solemnity, 
anticipating sad forebodings as to my ever re- 
turning to my native land. We parted from each 
other prayerfully, desiring we might be per- 
mitted to meet again. The weather was now 
extremely cold, and, having no fire on board the 
ship, save in the furnace under the boilers, we 
endured much sufiering from the cold ; and, as I 
was ill, and very weak, shivering continued for 
many hours, notwithstanding the steward made 
applications of hot water by placing bottles and 
pitchers around me. My dear husband was under 
great concern and fear, lest we should not reach 
the island of Cuba without my enduring a severe 
illness, striving every way in his power to warm 
me, and alleviate my cough, which was now ex- 
treme. For myself, I thought it very doubtful 
whether I ever reached Havana ; but we strove 
to put our confidence and trust in that God, who 
suiFers *' not a sparrow to fall to the ground with- 
out His providence." 

While thus revolving in our minds the many 
sad events that were transpiring in our native 



REBELS ON BOARD. 11 

land, that we were leaving, filling our hearts with 
sorrow, we heard a great noise in a state-room 
opposite our door, amounting to a scuffle. We 
opened the door, and discovered several men in 
the state-room, with one or two police officers 
with them, denouncing them as spies and rebels; 
at the same time demanding papers which they 
had in their possession, relative to the affairs of 
our Government, which the men denied. Their 
persons and trunks were searched, but finding 
none, they were ordered to take off their boots, 
which one of them offered to do, provided one of 
the officers would promise to put them on, which 
the officers knew would be no easy task, and 
would not make the promise. One of those 
rebels then said to an officer, '' Come, go with 
me; why should not you and I be friends?" 
when they all voluntarily went to the bar, and 
there drank themselves good friends. The officers 
left the ship, and the rebels returned to make 
themselves merry over their success, relating to 
a large number in the cabin, in our hearing, how 
they had wheedled the officers out of their plan, 
from taking them from the ship, or getting any 
of their papers, through the influence of liquor, 
as well as politeness ; one of them saying, •' There 



12 JOURNAL. 

is more contained in the version of the Irishman, 
in getting on with a bad job, than one would 
suppose, ^It is not so much in good looks as in 
winning ways,' '' saying, " My winning ways have 
saved us to-day." 

The same evening, leaving our moorings oppo- 
site Jersey City, we set sail on our voyage, passing 
through the ^N'arrows, where we beheld the great 
amount of shipping, which is to be seen at all 
times in tbe Bay of I^ew York. At the hour of 
ten at night, we endeavored to compose ourselves 
to sleep, after solemnly commending our lives 
and our all to Him who rules the winds and the 
waves, and slept tolerably well. I still continued 
very sick with, fever, cough, and oppression. 

My dear husband went on deck in the morning, 
but finding it very cold, could not remain long. 
"We now began to feel somewhat sea-sick, which 
continued most of the voyage. 

Our ship's company was composed of a very 
great mixture of blockade-runners, secessionists, 
and but very few loyal men and woixian. The 
only exceptions we found were George Gardner 
and wife, of Boston. There was amongst them 
a T. W. Whitney, of Matanzas, whose offers of 
kindness bespoke the gentleman, but whose sym- 



PASSENGERS. 13 

pathies were evidently enlisted with the South. 
There were many women on board with chil- 
dren, from England and the Southern States, 
who were going to rejoin their husbands at the 
island of IN'assau, as well as many of them at 
Cuba; saying they had not seen their husbands 
since the commencement of the war, but that 
they were entirely satisfied to have been so long 
absent from them, they never having been in 
such lucrative business before. I innocently in- 
quired what that business could be, when they 
would answer, "Blockade-running; it is the best 
of all business,'^ and seemed highly delighted. 

In the great variety we had on board, there 
was a young German girl, by the name of Jo- 
sephine , whom, if one could judge by her 

looks, might be about twenty-fi.ve, but she may 
have been somewhat older. She was travelling 
alone, highly educated, said she understood ten 
difi:erent languages, and appeared to be a profi.- 
cient in each, of which she gave an example. 
She was indeed a prodigy, a philosopher, as well 
as an exception to womankind. As we were 
much alone together, and I admired her for her 
learning, as well as for her agreeable manners, I 
desired her to give me a short account of her 



14 JOURNAL. 

history. She appeared to have been bred in high 
life. She told me her father resided in one of the 
large cities in Germany ; that she had no mother ; 
her father was advanced in years, and she, if I 
rightly remember, was the only daughter. She 
had one brother living in ISTew York city. I 
asked the question, how she could leave her 
father, and native land, and all other dear friends 
and early associations, and come to a land of 
strangers, rather than remain with her aged pa- 
rent, to soothe and comfort him in his declining 
years ? Her answer was, " That is best known 
to myself." I took it for granted that a dis- 
appointment, or some love affair, the same cause 
that has taken many a young girl to a convent, 
brought her over sea and land, to seek a foreign 
home, in almost entire isolation, — telling me she 
came on from Germany to I^ew York, I think, 
about three years previous to the time of our 
meeting. On her arrival, she went immediately 
to the house of her brother, where she had not 
been long before she took up a newspaper con- 
taining many advertisements of farms for sale. 
She saw one that struck her forcibly, as the spot 
for her, above all others, in Potter County, Pa., 
the extreme northern part of the State, in the 



PASSENGERS. 15 

midst of a primeval forest, several miles distant 
from any habitation, which she afterward pur- 
chased. After seeing the advertisement, she in- 
quired of her brother what train of cars she should 
take to proceed thitherward, and the following 
day took all she possessed and pressed onward. 
She found the agent, without any difficulty, on the 
spot, and purchased the farm at once, containing 
one hundred acres, and in a short time after- 
ward, made another purchase adjoining, on 
which was a tenant-house and some cleared land. 
She got some one to assist her in procuring per- 
sons to work on the farm, while she took the 
entire management of the whole. She found no 
difficulty in procuring a friend, companion, and 
domestic, from a farm-house, several miles dis- 
tant, — herself and the young woman performing 
all the duties of the house, being its only inmates. 
She told me she was educating her in the best 
manner, and that she already knew several differ- 
ent languages. That, as they lived in so much 
isolation, they had plenty of time for all the 
duties they had to perform, having no company. 
I asked her if they did not feel timid. Her an- 
swer was, " ]^o, that she did not want to injure 
any one, and she was sure they did not wish to 



16 JOURNAL. 

injure her." They spent much of their time 
riding on horseback; that they sometimes met 
men riding out, but avoided them as wolves of 
the forest. She said she still continued to live 
there, with much pleasure, and never expected 
to leave it. I queried with her why she was 
leaving it to go to Havana to spend the winter, if 
isolation was so delightful ? She replied, she had 
very intimate friends on the island of Cuba, who 
had sent for her to come and spend the winter 
with them ; that she had brought her companion 
with her, and left her at her brother's, in ISTew 
York, until she should return. I desired her to 
give me her address ; she requested mine in re- 
turn, while each extended a kind invitation to 
interchange visits. We saw her leave the ship 
with one of her friends, on her arrival at Havana. 
I presume if the history of many who have 
gone to convents, or other places of great isola- 
tion, was unfolded, the cause would not prove 
unlike that which led this German heroine to 
sacrifice all she held near and dear on earth, to 
fly from scenes of disappointment and sorrow, 
and, not unfrequently, of slander, that goes forth 
like a whirlwind, causing many an innocent 
maiden to pine her life away in obscurity, and in 



NASSAU. 17 

her timidity to seek for peace alone in some quiet 
vale, apart from the world; while he who has 
deceived her is walking erect, with infamy in his 
soul, and the ^'hrand of Cain upon his forehead." 
In the broad sunlight he wends his way to the 
homes of others, innocents like her. When will 
society become so far reformed as to look on 
both sexes impartially; when public opinion 
shall tend to the great principle of justice and 
right, rather than that of fashion or of caste ? 

I give my views on this subject, as I have 
mingled much with all classes of society for 
many long years, and have found in ".life among 
the lowly " less immorality, more virtue and 
truth, than I have among the rich and great. 
After stating that all the warm pulsations of my 
soul beat in unison and deep sympathy with these 
injured ones, the sands of time will have passed 
from my glass, before I shall cease to lay a soft 
hand gently on the heads of this class, which I 
could only desire may rest as dew upon the 
flowers. 

On fourth day afternoon we began to feel a 
milder climate, and to experience its refreshing 
influence, especially myself, who up to this time 
had been confined mostly to my state-room. On 



18 JOURNAL. 

fifth day, the seventh of the month, we expe- 
rienced a spring-like atmosphere. In the after- 
noon a steamer was discovered making after us, 
and as she gained upon us, fired a blank car- 
tridge, warning us to come to and wait her coming 
up, which Captain Lemesurier did, much to his 
mortification and chagrin, not knowing but it 
might be a pirate ship, as many infested the seas 
at that time. Tht. steamer proved to be a rebel 
war vessel, who, on finding ours to be her Bri- 
tannic Majesty's mail steamer Corsica, bound for 
Havana, passed on, leaving us to follow, calling 
upon us, as she passed, for newspapers, to which 
we replied in the negative. She detained us 
about one hour. On sixth day morning we were 
in quite a warm latitude, the thermometer being 
seventy-six to eighty. 

We now saw the island of J^assau in the dis- 
tance, and about nine o'clock in the morning 
attempted to enter the harbor, but found it too 
rough, surrounded with rocks, so that the water 
was thrown up a great distance. The waves beat 
with violence against the rocks, giving it a terrific 
appearance. The captain concluded to go to the 
opposite side, it being to the windward, where we 
found a better anchorage. We laid there during 



NASSAU. 19 

the night, and discharged the cargo and most of 
the passengers designed for that place. They 
were placed on board a lighter at night, which 
looked very fearful to us left behind. The sea 
being very tempestuous, many thought they 
would not reach the shore. The storm raged 
considerably through the night, driving a ship on 
shore, where we saw her in the morning, high 
and dry, being a total wreck. I felt like condol- 
ing with those on the wreck, as well as with 
the owners of the wrecked steamer, but was told 
I might give myself no concern on that head, as 
it was often done intentionally, to get the insur- 
ance on vessel and cargo, but if so, the passengers 
had to suffer. It required four or five schooners 
and a small steamer to take away the freight and 
passengers that landed here. 

On the ninth of the month we continued our 
course round the island, and came in front of the 
principal town, and sent the remainder of the 
passengers in lighters on shore. It was rather a 
fearful operation getting the women and the aged 
off" the steamer. They were let down in an arm- 
chair, by means of a tackle ; numbering in all 
ninety souls, as pure secessionists as ever rebelled 
against any government. This island, Providence, 



20 JOURNAL. 

as it is called, is a small, barren, rocky island, 
grown over with underbrush, without culture of 
any kind, and depending on the States for every 
article of subsistence. It is now the depot for 
blockade-runners and Southern sympathizers, and 
a brisk trade is carried on between this island 
and the South. The town of Kassau is a small 
place, having one large hotel, a few government 
buildings, and private residences. A mulatto 
man, our informant, gave us reliable information 
concerning the condition of the island previous 
to the war ; that it was of little account until the 
brisk trade commenced with the South, of block- 
ade-running. We concluded it could not be a 
desirable place for invalids, or residence for any, 
except such as are engaged in contraband trade. 
We left our anchorage about two o'clock p.m., 
taking on board numbers of passengers from 
Nassau; and we steamed our way for Havana. 



CHAPTEE IL 

Havana — Slaves and Slave-Ships — Churches — 
Vehicles, 

"We readied Havana on the morning of the 
fourteenth of twelfth mo., 1863, at eight o'clock, 
A. M. Among the passengers were an English 
gentleman and wife, with whom we became in- 
timately acquainted, we both going to the same 
hotel in Havana, where we spent a month. The 
steamer came to anchor in the harbor, about one 
mile from the landing, to which we were conveyed 
in small boats, at one dollar apiece. On coming 
to anchor we were boarded by the custom-house 
officers, and runners from the different hotels, 
offering us their accommodations, and taking 
charge of our baggage. The harbor is a fine one, 
of basin shape, the entrance to which is through 
narrows, on the point of which stands Moro 
Castle on a high bluff. It is an extensive and 
formidable structure, and would seem to defy 
the assault of an enemy; but modern warfare 

3 



22 JOURNAL. 

sets at nought every superstructure of ancient 
defence. 

After completing custom-house duties, we 
walked up to Alany's Hotel, a few blocks off, and 
which stands in Plaza de Francisco, exposed to 
the view of the harbor. It constitutes a block, 
so built as to have a court-yard in the centre, 
accessible through a large doorway, and stone 
steps to the second story, where you land on a 
wide piazza. The lower story is occupied as 
stores, or eating and drinking saloons. The 
house has been kept for eighteen years by a lady 
from Philadelphia — an elegant woman, of worth 
and acquirements. Her hotel is said to be the 
best kept of any in Havana, and is resorted to 
by the first class boarders. Our friends, George 
Gardner and wife, from Boston, who had been 
our shipmates from ]^ew York, together with the 
English gentleman and wife, from Canada, were 
our companions here, as well as George Bernado 
and wife, from Philadelphia, making it highly 
agreeable, while our stay was prolonged one 
month, waiting for a steamer to take us to St. 
Thomas. 

The bay or harbor is surrounded by hills, and 
is a complete basin, on one side of which stands 



HAVANA. 23 

the city, forming tlie segment of a circle. The 
shipping is arranged along the wharves, bow 
foremost, so as to occupy the smallest possible 
space, in front of which is erected a long shed, 
extending from one end of the town to the other, 
for the accommodation of loadino; and unloadino: 
vessels, and there merchants meet in the morn- 
ing to transact business. The hours for business 
are from six to nine o'clock, after which breakfast 
and custom-house operations. On these wharves 
may be seen large numbers of slaves, continually 
loading and unloading vessels. The city looks 
quite pretty from the harbor ; but on entering it 
the stranger is struck with its jail-like appear- 
ance, every house of much account being guarded 
with iron-grated doors and windows; also, large 
massive iron doors, which open into court-yards, 
that lead to dwellings and stores. The lower 
stories are chiefly occupied as storehouses or 
places of business of some kind. The streets are 
narrow, with foot-pavements from two to three 
feet wide, mostly of round stone. Some of the 
streets are paved with square blocks of granite, 
and mostly kept clean, so that you walk in the 
middle of the street as common as sidewalks. 
The lower part of the city is in a wretched con- 



24 JOURNAL. 

dition, scarcely fit for decent people to pass 
through, being filled with groggeries, gambling 
places, and filth ; fi^r my own part, I felt afraid 
to pass through any of those miserable streets, 
which was proved to a demonstration by one of 
our boarders. 

There are a few places in the city somewhat 
attractive. The Governor's Plaza is an open 
space, ornamented with trees and shrubbery, that 
aflTords a pleasant retreat, where, every evening 
at eight o'clock, the citizens are entertained with 
a band of music. Outside of the city proper the 
houses are more expensive, streets wider, and 
open areas more numerous. There the elite of 
the city are seen driving every evening, from five 
o'clock, along the Pasio del Ysabel, Casse del 
Plado, Campa del Marie, up the Tacon. These 
siaras are where the aristocracy of the city re- 
side, and where is found grandeur and squalid 
poverty intermingled to the greatest extent we 
ever beheld. Here is seen an elegant mansion, 
according to their architecture, with its fine gar- 
den and beautiful grounds, and alongside a mis- 
erable shanty, with groggeries, and squalid 
poverty, in the greatest filth and degradation ; 
most of the latter native Cubans, who with the 



SLAVERY. 25 

Spaniards are always at variance. The Cubans 
are allowed none of the privileges or rights 
claimed exclusively by the Spaniards. All the 
fine buildings here, as well as in the city proper, 
are barricaded with iron bars, as we concluded, 
to guard against insurrections, as I was satisfied 
would eventually come upon the people of that 
island, if they continued to enslave and oppress 
both colored and whites. 

Having travelled through all the Southern 
States when slavery existed, we never saw it in 
80 horrible a form as on the island of Cuba. 
We did not visit the calaboose, at Havana. 
We daily saw passing our boarding-house a large 
number of slaves, heavily loaded with irons, and 
chained together, going into difterent parts of 
the city, to labor on public works ; such as re- 
pairing pavements, cleaning out sewers, or any- 
thing else of the most menial character. As all 
are chained together, one could make no move 
unless all moved, which must have given them 
in their irons the most excruciating pain. We 
saw them down in deep sewers, amid mud and 
filth, not only performing labor, daily, in those 
wretched ditches, but taking their meals (if they 
might be so called), surrounded with this stench. 

3* 



26 JOUKNAL. 

My heart bled for them, and I queried with some 
of the inhabitants, to know what their crime had 
been, that brought them to this condition. They 
answered very indifferently, that they did not 
know, perhaps for some misdemeanor. I replied, 
*' Do you suppose a people can prosper, while 
oppressing their fellow creatures to the extent 
they are here ?" Their only answer was, " You 
must be very careful what you say, as no one 
dares speak on the subject." But I was made to 
cry out in the agony of my spirit, " How long, 
oh Lord, holy and true, wilt thou suffer this mys- 
tery of iniquity to be going on in the land, under 
the high profession of serving Thee ?" As the 
priests were continually parading the streets in 
their long robes, in going to mass, and other re- 
ligious exercises, and were they the ministers ot 
Christ, we believed, would do all in their power 
to turn the captivity of this deeply oppressed 
people, which would be as easy for them as that 
of the water-courses, as their power and influence 
is unlimited. 

As we were riding out one evening, on the 
Pasio, in the finest part of the city, in company 
with our friends, G. Bernado and wife, of Phila- 
delphia, we passed a gang of slaves, apparently 



SLAVE-SHIPS. 27 

in great wretchedness, with a driver behind them 
with an uplifted whip. They were probably be- 
ing driven out to a plantation. "We saw them 
every day while on the island, al.ways under great 
oppression, and were informed by a gentleman 
from one of our Eastern States, that he had re- 
cently returned from a visit to a slave-ship, which 
had just come in with eleven hundred slaves on 
board, valued at eleven hundred thousand dollars. 
He was invited by a friend of his, residing in 
Havana, to go with him to witness the enormity 
of the slave-trade. 

I will give the relation, as nearly as I can, in his 
own words. " They went," he says, "in the dark- 
ness of the night, to a certain point on the island, 
where slave-ships generally unload their cargoes" 
— it being an isolated spot. "We there saw a 
large number of planters on the shore waiting for 
the arrival of the anticipated slave-ship. We wait- 
ed there for several hours, in the darkness of the 
night, until at last she made her appearance. 
On reaching her moorings, the cargo was hurried 
out of the ship, with all the rapidity possible, and 
placed upon the shore, many of them, poor mis- 
erable creatures, not being able to stand. I 
had heard of the horrors of the slave-trade, but 



28 JOURNAL. 

the sight of these poor creatures, torn from their 
native land, in their filth and degradation, beg- 
gars all description — few of them having the 
appearance of human beings. After the ship 
v^as cleared of its inmates, the gentleman who 
had invited me to go with him, insisted on my 
going on board the ship, which I did, and never 
can I forget the horrid spectacle that met my 
vision. The ship, from stem to stern, was a mass 
of filth and noxious vapor ; it looked as if all the 
excrements accumulated on the passage, were 
there deposited, during a voyage of ninety days. 
I queried to know how it was possible, eleven 
hundred could be stowed into that ship? His 
answer was, 'I will show you,' pointing to that 
part between decks, where seats were formed 
like stairs, and in every part where they could be 
placed, in the same way. I said, ' They cannot 
all be seated here,' when he. replied, 'They 
could not, except as they are made to fit each 
between the limbs of the other, having just room 
to crawl from their seats to a certain spot, nigh 
at hand, too horrible to reflect upon.' E'ever 
could I have contemplated so revolting a sight. 

" We hastened away from the ship as rapidly 
as possible, fearing to remain many minutes in so 



SLAVE-SHIPS. 29 

noisome a place. "We returned to the shore, and 
there found an auction going on. The many 
planters, who had been waiting for the arrival of 
the ship, were now making purchases of such as 
suited them best. 

"In the course of an hour or two, all were 
gone, not a vestige being left of the blackened 
crime and shameful exhibition we had been wit- 
nesses to. The ship was then towed out into the 
sea and scuttled ; which is the custom with the 
owners of slave-ships after discharging their car- 
goes, so that no trace shall be seen that such a 
ship has brought a cargo of slaves to the island. 
I queried with a gentleman how it could be al- 
lowed, as it was contrary to the laws of Spain, 
as well as all other civilized countries. He said 
the people there got along easily with that; as 
money will do anything. So many doubloons 
handed the Captain-General, and all will be right ; 
which has since been confirmed by a Cuban in 
my own house." 

E'ow, if this information be incorrect, the pres- 
ent Governor has nothing to do but deny it ; 
but we were informed the same thing, from 
several other sources, in Havana. "We give the 
statements as our informants gave them to us. 



30 JOURNAL. 

The Eastern gentleman also told us that not long 
after this he was again invited by his friend to 
visit another slave-ship, which contained seven 
hundred slaves. The horrors of the scene, and 
exhibition of cupiditj^ and crime, both with slave- 
dealers and planters, was much the same as the 
first, the ship being scuttled as the former. 

On retiring at night, after those horrible rela- 
tions during the evening, sleep departed from 
my eyes, and my spirits almost died within me. 
Soon after the morning's dawn, I told my hus- 
band we must go and see the American consul ; 
having relinquished the proposal I had made to 
him, to pay a visit to the Governor, my husband 
feeling he was not willing to risk the conse- 
quences that might arise from an interview on 
this subject. 

We arose, breakfasted, and paid him a visit. 
I opened my mind to him on the subject, my 
husband consenting. He gave us the most im- 
perative counsel, not to breathe a word on the 
subject to any one; saying, "You may get into 
difUculties from which you may not be able to 
extricate yourselves, as Catholicism reigns su- 
preme on this island, and no Protestant is tole- 
rated in any way;" stating a case of two young 



* INTOLEKANCE. - 31 

men who came from England, a few years since, 
for the purpose of obtaining liberty to establish 
a Protestant church, which they were totally de- 
nied, and threatened, if they did not leave the 
island; which they were willing to do, after dis- 
tributing a few Protestant tracts; for this crime 
they were arrested and thrown into prison, where 
they remained a long time awaiting their trial; 
after which they were condemned to several 
years' imprisonment; this, coming to the ears 
of the English government, measures were im- 
mediately taken with the Spanish government 
for their release, which might otherwise have 
terminated in a war between the two countries. 
They were released, however, only by banish- 
ment forever from the island on pain of death. 

This interview with the American consul con- 
firmed more fully the danger there was in saying 
or doing anything that might give offence to this 
hierarchy. 

Previous to visiting the American consul, we 
had requested of our landlady to hold a religious 
meeting in her house, at the earnest solicitation 
of many of the boarders, which she readily 
granted, saying it would give her too great sat- 



32 JOURNAL. 

isfaction, not having attended a religious meet- 
ing for eighteen years. 

. After the notices had been put up in different 
parts of the house, a Southern man came to my 
husband, and informed him that the holding of 
such a meeting might involve us in much diffi- 
culty, being entirely contrar}^ to law; which gave 
us much concern, not so much on my own ac- 
count as on that of my husband, who did not feel 
prepared, as he said, to suffer martyrdom on that 
island, or subject us to the persecuting spirit that 
prevailed there. Our landlady thought it an un- 
necessary alarm altogether, and insisted on the 
meeting's being held; but we thought it most 
prudent, as well as many others, to take down 
the notices, to the disappointment of those who 
came from without, as well as within the house. 
Soon after, we were informed that one or more 
officers were waiting below for us to commence 
the meeting, when we were to have been taken 
immediately to prison. And this was no sham 
for intimidation, but a reality, under the in- 
fluence of Catholic rule. We were afterwards 
told by the American consul, that if ia.ve persons 
should hold a Protestant prayer-meeting in one 
of their chambers, and should it be found out by 



SLAVERY. 33 

the authorities, it would subject them to incar- 
ceration in a prison. 

We were informed there was scarcely a day or 
night in which murders and robberies are not 
committed, but are seldom reported. One indi- 
vidual, as near as I can now remember, who had 
used some measures to assist a slave to leave the 
island, was unmercifully garroted, and the body 
left suspended, hanging in the air for some con- 
siderable time, as an example for others; — not 
forgetting to punish the great crime of restoring 
a stolen man to his freedom, while murderers 
were permitted to go at large. This case we did 
not see ourselves, but a friend of ours from IN'ew 
York, one of our own Society, gave us the in- 
formation, being a fellow-boarder with us. 

I might go on enumerating enormities prac- 
tised on the oppressed; but one feature more in 
the horrid system must suffice. Another of our 
fellow-passengers, and boarder at the same hotel, 
from Chicago, rode out with his sick son, in the 
interior, to visit the plantations. On his return, 
he told us he had beheld the most horrid sight he 
ever saw, — men, women, and children, in great 
numbers, on sugar plantations, in the most abject 



34 JOURNAL. 

and cruel condition of slavery. It was the sngar- 
making season, and they were pressed or driven 
to that extent, that it seemed as if they could 
exist but a short time under such oppressive 
labor. As he made no profession of being an 
Abolitionist, they let him into some secrets, 
which they otherwise would not — such as the 
number of hours they were compelled to labor 
out of the twenty-four. They told him that 
eighteen hours were what they generally re- 
quired of them ; but when hard driven for their 
sugars to be in readiness for customers, they 
did require twenty, sometimes twenty-two hours' 
labor of them. May we not ask ourselves, while 
reading this narration, whether we could endure 
such toil, and that, too, without any compensa- 
tion — save a salt herring and a small quantity of 
Indian meal per day, leaving out clothing, as 
what is given them is not worthy of the name ? 
Should not every human being set their faces 
against such an infamous system, let it be where 
it may? crying out against it as the sum total of 
all villanies, while the people where it exists 
seem as indifferent to it as if it were some great 
boon conferred upon them. I believed, when 
there, the time was near at hand when a change 



SLAVERY. 35 

must be wrouglit, as their measure of iniquity 
seemed nearly full. 

One more instance of barbarity must be re- 
corded, on a poor girl, a child's nurse, at one of 
the boarding-houses. The mother of the child 
was not living. The father procured this young 
nurse. In some way the infant received a slight 
injury. When it was known to the landlady, 
she told the girl the father should hear of it. 
The girl begged her on her knees not to do it, 
saying, "My master will whip me to death!" 
But the cruel woman was inexorable; told her 
she was in fault; that she would be as good as 
her word. The poor frantic young girl, well 
knowing the consequence, retired quickly to the 
third story of the building, then jumped from one 
of the windows to the street, falling on the stone 
pavement. She was taken up and cared for, but 
life was nearly extinct. We heard no more of 
the case, as it was not thought of much account, 
such enormities being of frequent occurrence. 
It brought to mind the truthful lines of a cele- 
brated author: 

" Yice is a monster of sucli hideous mien, 
As, to be hated, needs but to be seen; 
But seen too oft, familiar with its face, 
"We first endure, then pity, then embrace." 



36 JOURNAL. 

So it has ever been with those who have not had 
moral or religious principle to direct them. But 
the barbarism connected with slavery seems too 
vile and cruel for any possessed of humanity to 
view it in this light. But so it is; and to me it is 
a problem I have never been able to solve, how 
well-disposed people could ever have held their 
fellow-creatures in bondage, at any period of 
time. 

I will now speak about the most common 
vehicles used on the island as pleasure carriages. 
They are called voMntes, for one or two horses; 
there are a few barouches, and some coaches. It 
is curious to see how they harness and fix their 
little horses to these voldntes; the driver always 
rides on one of the horse's backs, at least ten feet 
from the dasher of the carriage, and when two 
horses are used, one is placed between the shafts 
and the other on the off side, which is ridden by 
the driver; and what appears very singular to us, 
most of these horses have their tails plaited, and 
tied to one side of the saddle. The horses are 
small, and their gait a sort of shuffling pace, 
which they drive at the rate of six miles an hour. 

The houses are built of stone and roughcast, 
from one to three stories. The floors are of brick 



MARKETS. 37 

or stone, all througb. the houses, making a fine 
resort for scorpions, centipedes, roaches, darning- 
needles, and all sorts of poisonous vermin, of 
which there is a great abundance on the island. 
Oxen and small horses are the beasts of burden, 
as well as donkeys, travelling the streets continu- 
ally, loaded with cane-tops, baskets of fruits and 
vegetables, to such an extent that the legs of the 
donkey ^re scarcely seen. Oranges and bananas 
were in abundance, pineapples not so plenty. 
It is not common for ladies to walk in the street, 
neither is it considered safe ; but our republican 
habits could not be circumscribed by such arbi- 
trary rules; so on the sixteenth we took a walk 
through the town to the market, where we saw a 
miserable collection of meats, vegetables, and fish 
of various kinds; the people looked at us with 
astonishment, and made their remarks as we 
passed along; but not understanding them, we 
took no notice of them. 

17th. "We took a ride this evening, at the in- 
vitation of George Bernado and wife, along the 
Siara, and through the Tacon, and by the way 
of Gordon House. It afibrded us a fine oppor- 
tunity to see the best part of the city. We had 
a day or two before taken a voldnte, and rode 

4* 



38 JOURNAL. 

along the Tacon and back. The vehicle was very 
uncomfortable for two people, and the driver not 
understanding our language, made it anything 
but desirable to be driven about without know- 
ing anything. 

18th. The thermometer is 72° in the morning, 
and 76° at noon, and it rained all day; we kept 
close house, hearing sad relations of slavery and 
its effects, and the cruelties that are practised 
upon them. 

19th. The Evening Star arrived from E'ew 
York, bound to E'ew Orleans, in which G-eorge 
Bernado and wife, and others, are going to that 
city. The Corsica also sails to l^ew York; by 
her we sent letters to our friends. 

Atmosphere cool; thermometer, 71° to 75°. 

We have made a visit to the friends to whom 
we brought letters, Burnham & Co., and others, 
in Merchant Street. Burnham is an elderly gen- 
tleman, reserved and dignified. He has politely 
offered to forward all our letters sent to him. 
F. Bussing, 37 Merchant Street, just retiring from 
business, we found very agreeable. He sailed 
with us to St. Thomas, with his family, on their 
way to Germany. "With this gentleman we felt 
easy and familiar, and conversed freely on all 



CATHEDRAL. 39 

subjects. The Evening Star brought us no letters 
from home. 

20th. Fh'st day, morning. Felt the importance 
of our position; and the prayerful aspiration of 
the soul to the throne of grace is for light and 
strength to do the will of Him whom we desire 
to serve. Yet feeling poor, stripped, and naked, 
without ability to think a good thought, unless 
thou, Lord, inspire us. 

We visited the Cathedral, in company with 
some of the boarders, at the time of Mass, and sat 
quietly with them during their devotions, which 
consisted mostly in falling down on their knees, 
on the stone floor, before images, which were 
erected in all parts, reminding us of some of the 
sayings of Paul, relative to the inscription on the 
altar of the Athenians, — " To the unknown God." 
After they had dispersed, we visited different 
parts of the enormous edifice, as well as the tomb 
of Columbus, situated in one end of the building. 
It- is said his remains are here deposited. The 
inscription being in Spanish, we were unable to 
decipher it. His memory is still sacred to the 
Spaniards. "We then took cars, and rode seve- 
ral miles out on the Siara, and back to Campo 



40 JOURNAL. 

de Marti; from thence walked througli the city 
to our hotel. 

There is some regard paid by many to the day 
of the week. There is no law regulating the 
enforcement of the observance of the Sabbath; 
hence we see trade and business going on as 
usual, and the public conveyances running as on 
other days. Card-playing, drinking, &c., consti- 
tute the recreation. 

21st. Morning cool ; thermometer 68° ; cloudy. 

22d. Thermometer 68° ; atmosphere warmer. 
The Eagle, from New York, has arrived, bring- 
ing the widow and family of the late Mcholas 
Biddle, of Philadelphia. They came to our hotel, 
but she being out of health did not remain long; 
we not ascertaining which way they turned their 
course. 



CHAPTER III. 

Matanzas — Cave of Bellamar. 

23d. Rose at four o'clock in the morning, and, 
in company with George Gardner and wife, took 
cars for Matanzas, a distance of sixty miles, to 
visit the Cave of Bellamar, where we arrived at 
nine o'clock, and took breakfast at Hubbel's 
Hotel, who (Hubbel) is a Philadelphian, and 
seemed gratified at seeing some of his towns- 
men; taking great pains to furnish our plates 
with the choicest pieces. 

Here we met Captain Barnes and T. W, Whit- 
ney, the latter our old shipmate from ^ew York 
to Havana, and the former an intimate friend of 
my dear husband's for many years, he having 
been their family physician. In company with 
the Gardners, each taking a voldnte, and the other 
above-named friends in another, with drivers on 
the horses making a great noise, we set forward. 
The road, for some distance towards the cave, is 
very beautiful, being on the sea-side, after which 



42 



JOURNAL. 



we begin to ascend a mountain of rocks, over 
which the horses are actually forced up by the 
violence of the drivers. On either side of the 
road, as we passed, tall trees of cocoanuts and 
bananas might be seen, the fruits hanging in 
great profusion; a sight extremely beautiful and 
picturesque. I had seen them in pictures, when 
a child, but little thought I should ever stand on 
the soil where they grow, and where I might 
have had the Hberty of plucking them from the 
boughs. 

I felt very doubtful, as well as my husband, 
whether we should reach the summit in safety, 
the volantes often appearing as if they would 
fall backward. At last we gained the top, and, 
after driving one mile over a terribly rough road, 
came to the Cave de Bellamar.* This beautiful 
cave is owned by Manuel Santos Parga. It was 
discovered on the 17th of April, 1861, while 
breaking limestone in the neighborhood. One 
of his workmen felt his lever sinking through a 
hole, which proved to be a deep well. Parga's 
curiosity was aroused ; he descended, and to his 
amazement he saw a splendid cavern. He set 
immediately to work, and so well did he succeed 

* rrom Guia de la Cueva de Bellamar. 



CAVE or BELLAMAR. 43 

in his new discovery that, before one year had 
elapsed, he gave to the admiring public the won- 
ders of his subterranean domain. The cave has 
been called Bellamar, as there is a summer re- 
treat near by of that name. The entrance to the 
cave is one mile distant from the junction of the 
two roads and two hundred yards from the Parga 
House, in which the visitors' register is found, as 
well as a large assortment of fine specimens of 
stalactites and stalagmites for sale. The guides 
are well provided with lamps and tapers. In the 
principal apartments are fixed lights, or chande- 
liers, burning with great brilliancy. Good paths 
have been opened, bridges thrown over, and steps 
placed wherever the passage required it. The 
first hall, called the G-othic Temple, is of unique 
and severe beauty, and brings to mind the solemn 
naves of ancient cathedrals. As the visitors o-o 
down this hall, nine hundred feet long by two 
hundred and forty wide, there are several large 
pillars, which reach the ceiling of the lofty vault, 
the largest of which is sixty feet high, varying in 
its width from twenty-one to nine feet, and bears 
the name of the Mantle of Columbus. Stately 
are its capacious folds, and at the foot many 
figures may be seen resembling statuary, like 



44 JOURNAL. 

men lying on the ground, prostrate in deep ado- 
ration ; these are called the Twelve Apostles. 

The farther we descended, the heat became 
more oppressive, although we had doffed above 
all the clothing we could spare, so that our friend 
George Gardner proposed returning, thinking 
he would not be able to breathe long there. My 
dear husband urged him onward, and we all 
found we soon became accustomed to the atmos- 
phere. Opposite to the Mantle of Columbus, in 
the other end of the Gothic Temple, stands a 
niche, called the Altar, decorated with stones, 
not unlike images, shaped by an awkward hand. 
At the foot of the Altar, on a prominent stone, 
the guardian of the Cave, sl rude statue, raises its 
solemn head, turned towards the entrance. There 
are two openings in the Gothic Temple, through 
which the hall is left, to enter the subterranean 
passages ; both are in front of the traveller as he 
descends. Following the itinerarj^ of the guides, 
the left one is chosen, and he finds himself in the 
Gallery of the Fountain, two thousand four 
hundred feet long. The crystallizations of the 
Gothic Temple are white, somewhat tinged with 
brown. As soon as we enter the Gallery of the 
Fountain, we see on either side the most delicate 



Cave of bellamar. 45 

work, of a shining white, representing the most 
beautiful scalloped embroidery. Just in the cen- 
tre of the Gallery the spring is seen which gives 
it the name of the Fountain ; the water fills a 
basin, white as marble, and is pure and agreeable 
to the palate. There we all slaked our thirst, 
and some of us, I think, bathed our faces it. 
Close by the fountain the passage is covered by 
the most beautiful stalactites, forming the closet 
of the " Indian Maiden." After this, the traveller 
is shown a fine arch, called the " Devil's Gorge," 
bound on one side by a large stalactite called the 
" Organ," which very much resembles that musi- 
cal instrument. A few yards beyond the " Gorge," 
the stalactites and stalagmites mingle together in 
such a manner that they form a mass of trans- 
parent alabaster. Some of these are of the m.ost 
fantastic shapes, clear as crystal. Lights are 
placed behind them to show them off. Among 
them, the Sepulchre is found. But the most re- 
markable is the Embroidered Petticoat ; this is, 
indeed, one of the jewels of the Bellamar Cave. 
It is a most beautiful, bell-shaped, hollow stalac- 
tite, as smooth as marble, several feet in height. 
!N"ear the bottom, a symmetrical edge, six inches 
wide, made up of large crystals, adds much to its 

5 



46 JOURNAL. 

beauty. The " Sofa " forms also an interesting 
group of these stalactites. 

As we wandered through the Cave, we came to 
the end of the Gallery of the Fountain, but only 
to see new and greater wonders, each one calling 
out " Look here !" while in a moment we heard 
the sound, " See there ! how grand, how magnifi- 
cent !" The Hall of the Benediction, so called by 
one of the reverend bishops, who pronounced it 
blessed, in a fit of enthusiasm, being a chamber 
of surpassing beauty. It is forty-two feet long, 
twenty-four wide, and thirty-six high. The floor, 
the walls, the vault, are of dazzling white, form- 
ing an aerial vista of stalactites, covered with crys- 
tallizations ; these hang from the vaults, which are 
ornamented with alabaster curtains. One of the 
pendant stalactites has the name of Don Hosmo's 
Lamp. A gentleman wished to purchase it for a 
large sum, but the owner said, " JSTo ; let the vis- 
itors enjoy the grand sight." One of the most 
striking objects in the Hall of the Benediction is 
the Mantle of the Virgin, — a massive stalactite, 
which falls like a transparent cascade, with a 
splendid border, the surface being slightly undu- 
lated, while the square facets shine like precious 
stones. Under the Mantle of the Virgin is a pure 



CAVE OF BELLAMAR. 47 

stream of water, the source of which is still a 
mystery; it is called the Mysterious Spring. An 
attempt has been made to discover a passage to 
it, but all efforts proved unavailing; while thus 
exploring for a passage, the lights soon were ex- 
tinguished, and the horror was greatly increased 
on finding the matches were wet: lost in the 
dark cavities, they thought of their last hour. 
Happily, the wife of the proprietor became 
alarmed at her husband's delay, and sent in her 
sei'vants to search for him. The lost ones were 
found in the most pitiable condition; they had 
been for eighteen hours in much suffering, both 
physical and mental. We next passed to the Gal- 
lery of the Lake, remarkable for the appearance 
of a snow-drift. Although at the end of this 
gallery the Lake of Dahlias is found, it is not 
accessible for visitors, as the flowers are under 
water. In another part of the cave is Hatney 
Gallery, named for a famous Indian chief, in 
the early history of the island. 

^NText, a chamber, called " The Closet of the 
Beautiful Matanceras," near which are many 
others, too numerous to mention. The readers 
must go and see for themselves, taking this book 
with them for a guide. The depth of this cave 



48 JOURNAL. 

is three hundred and sixty feet. The ground is 
dry, but always of a hot temperature ; fossil shells 
cover some portions of the vaults; a large amount 
of filagree work may be seen in many parts, so 
fanciful, as fit models for the artist. Gothic 
chapels, with many hues of the rose and violet, 
with gold color, may be seen. 

On coming again to the light of day, we felt 
much chilliness ; but wrapping ourselves in our 
warm shawls, we turned our faces towards the 
city of Matanzas, of which we had a fine view. 
We purchased some beautiful specimens, as well 
as had some presented. Our kind friend. Captain 
Barnes, offered to take mine to Philadelphia, on 
board of his ship, to which we readily acceded. 
We had seen some parts of the country, which is 
beautiful as it meets the eye of the beholder. The 
highlands of Lacumbre, which conceal the val- 
ley Yumuri ; the Abra, a deep ravine, where the 
Yumuri River calmly flows ; Simpson Hill, with 
villas scattered about its lap ; the city gracefully 
laid out on wavy ground ; at a distance the pan 
of Matanzas : all contribute to form a picture 
worthy of the blue sky that pours on it the bright- 
ness of its tropical tints. The excursion required 
three hours. 



CAVE OF BELLAMAR. 49 

M. Porga does not cease to work, in order to 
bring out new beauties, that be may offer new gal- 
leries and balls to tbe public, sufficient to gratify 
tbe most devoted lover of tbe beautiful in nature. 
He is said to be a man of great wortb, wbicb bis 
indomitable perseverance stamps on bis cbarac- 
ter ; tbe traveller finds bim always ready to sbow 
bis gorgeous treasures, but allows no one to de- 
face tbeir beauty. Tbe entrance fee to tbe Bel- 
lamar Cave is one dollar, guides and ligbts in- 
cluded. A good saddle borse (or wbat tbe owner 
calls good) may be bired for four dollars and 
twenty-five cents; a voldnte, witb a pair of 
borses, for eigbt dollars and fifty cents ; we may 
use tbem for tbree or four bours, but tbe excur- 
sion is often accomplisbed in two and a balf or 
tbree bours. 

"We bave visited many caves in tbe United 
States and in Europe, but never saw one in all 
our wanderings of so mucb interest, as well as 
surpassing beauty, as tbis. I could bave wan- 
dered and explored its subterranean vaults for a 
mucb longer time, witbout tbe least feeling of 
weariness. Tbe grandeur of tbe scene will, I 
trust, ever remain fresb in mind, calling up vivid 
remembrances of bygone days, wben tbose we 

5* 



50 JOURNAL. 

held near and dear were grouped together with 
us, a happy hand! now sleeping in the silent halls 
of death ! For a few brief moments let us pause 
and reflect what sad changes have been meted 
out to the writer of this work since that period ; 
but this is a world of continued change, and the 
last final change must come ere long. The prin- 
cipal sources of activity are taken away, when 
those we have so dearly loved are removed from 
us, those who continually animated us to renewed 
exertion, and sweetened all the toils of life; who 
dispersed the clouds as they gathered by the sun- 
shine in their souls ! but for the loss of such, 
where can we find consolation, and refuge for the 
troubled spirit, save in the bosom of religion? 
This only can warm and fill the heart! which 
trials and bereavements soften, and confirm more 
fully, that this is not our abiding-place. I often 
wonder that travellers are not more devout, more 
contemplative on the works of creation and Prov- 
idence ; the opportunity is so great for reflection 
and the enlargement of the mind. In the words 
of a Scripture writer, " They that go down to the 
sea in ships, that sail on great waters, these see 
the works of the Lord and His wonders in the 
deeps." 



CAVE OF BELLAMAR. 51 

We again took the cars for Havana, and ar- 
rived in time for tea, at eight o'clock, — our fel- 
low-boarders all desirous to know how we en- 
joyed the trip, many of them saying, "We must 
go too," seeming in ecstacies at our recital. 

Our tri]D gave us a good opportunity for seeing 
the country, which is mostly level, covered with 
palm trees and orange groves. The soil is of a 
bluish color, and looked poor. The plantations 
seemed neglected. The palm is a tree of great 
beauty and height, and seemed to look down 
with indignation on the slave- worn soil below. 
We saw but few sugar estates ; but little grass ; 
indeed, the whole district we should call misera- 
ble, so that we had to wonder from whence came 
the oranges, pineapples, and bananas, that we saw 
in the city. 



CHAPTEE IV. 

]S'egro Amusements — Trip to Manito — Private 
Hospitality. 

25th. Christmas-day is holiday; great com- 
motion through the night, celebrating the advent 
of Christ. It is very warm; thermometer at 12 
o'clock, 76° ; my dear husband not well to-day. 

"We had heard much said as to the amusements 
of the slaves and free people of color, at Christ- 
mas. We did not know what it was ; but when 
the time came, I saw them hastening with their 
work, at the hotel, and offered to assist them; 
other ladies seeing me do so, also came forward, 
and we soon despatched their work. In one hour 
after we were called to see them, in the open 
square in front of our house, painted in the most 
fantastic manner, nearly destitute of clothing, 
performing all kinds of pantomime antics, and 
debasing themselves in various ways, while ut- 
tering deafening screams at the top of their 
voices ; the white people laughed and made merry 



NEGRO AMUSEMENTS. 53 

over their degradation. It reminded us of " Sam- 
son wlien he was brought out of prison to make 
sport for the Philistines, finding afterwards he 
had strength sufficient, he proved the death of 
them all;" which will be no wonder, should it 
be fulfilled to the letter. I told the spectators we 
should set our faces against all such debasing ex- 
hibitions, and impress upon them, the colored 
people, their manhood; that they were account- 
able beings, and possessed a higher nature than 
merely low and animal passions; that I felt it 
was wrong to remain to witness that, which to 
some seemed a pleasure, as it might be an en- 
couragement to them to go on. My dear husband 
and self retired to our own room ; soon all the 
boarders left the stand on the balcony, and the 
poor ones forsook their folly. I felt I had done 
right, and retil'ed that night to rest in peace. 

]N"ear this time. Lady Madden, a N^ew Yorker 
like myself, had invited us to her house to break- 
fast, at eleven o'clock. She sent a splendid 
volante, with a driver, to take us thither. She 
is a very polite, agreeable woman, as was Lady 
Bell, and many others I have cause to remember. 
I hope we may meet again. Mary Kelly, one of 
our boarders, went with us. She too is from E'ew 



54 JOURNAL. 

York. We rode out on the Siaro, where Lady 
Madden lives, in one of the finest dwellings, bar- 
ricaded, like all the rest, with iron gratings, her 
husband remaining out on the plantation, many 
miles distant, with a large number of slaves. 

On our arrival she went with us to visit a 
neighbor, who had attached to the grounds 
around her mansion the most tasteful garden and 
pleasure-grounds we had ever seen in any coun- 
try, being laid out with much care; with fine 
gravel walks in all directions ; with lakes, foun- 
tains, and cascades, at almost every turn. She is 
a woman of more than eighty years. The avenue 
to the house is of great width, bordered with 
palm, cocoanut, and cactus trees, with other va- 
rieties, all in primal beauty. The cactus, being 
in flower, gave the lawn a splendid appearance. 
Every variety of shrub and flowerf brought there 
from foreign lands, embellished her grounds, and 
she told us, through an interpreter, they had been 
planted by her own hands; but we presumed 
under her supervision, while some others per- 
formed the labor. She is naturally a genius, 
being a native Cuban, speaking no other lan- 
guage; she has taken up the art of drawing, 
painting, working in wax, stuffing birds, polishing 



PRIVATE RESIDENCES. 55 

the different varieties of wood growing on the 
island, which quite astonished us. The paintings 
were exquisite, as were all her other perform- 
ances; and, if I rightly remember, a large portion 
of her best had been executed in her old age; all 
having been learned without a teacher. One of 
the lakes on the premises was of sufS.cient size 
to keep a boat-house on its bank, for pleasure ex- 
cursions, much the same as in the environs of 
Paris, as well as at the palace of Versailles. On 
the borders of the largest lake were numerous 
waterfowl, and two large aviaries, filled with al- 
most every variety of birds, also a dove-house, 
of the most curious architecture. Many aged 
people of color were about the premises, who, we 
presumed, had performed much of the labor. 
She then conducted us into her house, where 
was a chapel, ^crucifix, and everything for per- 
forming Catholic devotions. She offered us sev> 
eral beautiful specimens of different articles in 
her house, as presents, we having spoken highly 
of her genius, but we declined, and were told, on 
our return, that it is merely done for etiquette, it 
being the custom of the people of the island. We 
received, however, some of her fine specimens of 
flowers, and some beautiful cocoanuts, just taken 



56 JOURNAL. 

from the tree, of which there were many on her 
premises. We then returned to breakfast with 
Lady Madden, where we met a few of her 
friends, who had also been invited. After we 
had breakfasted, which might have been be- 
tween one and two o'clock, we returned to our 
hotel, she sending us in her voMnte. 

The women on this island go without hats or 
bonnets ; most of them have a thin veil over 
their faces, thrown back on their shoulders. 
The wealthy dress very richly. 

We shall ever remember Lady Madden's kind- 
ness to us strangers with feelings of gratitude. 

On our return, our friends, George and Eliza 
Gardner, we found were preparing to sail for 
Cadiz, in a Spanish man-of-war, with one thou- 
sand troops, destined for St. Domingo. 

31st. Took the omnibus, at the Plaza, with 
Alphonsio Peletee as guide, for the railroad 
depot, to take us to Manito, twelve miles from 
the city. The country through which we passed 
presented a much better appearance of cultiva- 
tion than that at Matanzas. It is more hilly, and 
far more picturesque. On this road we saw the 
pineapple growing, for the first time, which is 
the green top of the fruit, planted in hills like 



MANITO. 67 

cabbage, which shoot forth new leaves, and the 
frait grows in the centre, one apple only to each 
plant. 

Manito is on high ground, and much more 
healthy than at Havana. It is here many citizens 
flee to escape the epidemics often occurring in 
the city. 

First mo. 1st, 1864. — This day is kept as a holi- 
day; all work suspended; stores mostly closed, but 
inside the clerks are playing cards and drinking. 

We have been here (Havana), over three weeks, 
and the time now seems long. We strive to be 
patient and watchful, but feel our leanness and 
poverty. Oh that our Heavenly Father would 
illuminate our hearts, and give us to see and 
practise His divine will. In looking over our 
lives we cannot say that we know anything as 
we ought, save by His holy workings in our souls, 
teaching us what is good, and warning us to 
avoid the wrong. May His grace fill our hearts, 
so that we may know no other will than that 
which flows from His holy fountain of truth. 

2d. Quite cool this morning; wind and rain. 
We called on the English consul to-day, to engage 
our passage to St. Thomas, but were told our pas- 
sage could not be paid until the steamer arrived. 

6 



58 JOURNAL. 

The Morning Star reached here yesterday, by 
which we received two Tribunes, of the twenty- 
sixth ult., from W. C. B., l^ew York. 

3d. Morning clear; thermometer 72°. My 
cough still continues; my dear husband is untir- 
ing in trying to alleviate it, but at times it seems 
uncontrollable. 

5th. Quite warm the last few days ; thermome- 
ter ranging from 72° to 79°. The people here 
are mostly secessionists, or their sympathizers. 
We are now luxuriating on oranges, at ten cents 
a dozen ; bananas are also plenty, but pineapples 
are scarce this season ; we buy them at sixteen 
and twenty cents apiece. 

6th. The Columbia left for I^ew York. This 
is the King's day, or negro holiday, as they term 
it. They dress up fantastically, and go about the 
streets singing and dancing to the sound of a 
drum; but we turned from it with disgust, know- 
ing it was only their degraded condition that 
made them enjoy it. The Clyde arrived about 
^YQ o'clock, and my dear husband went on board 
to engage our passage to St. Thomas. The fare 
was one hundred and twenty dollars each; state- 
rooms 12 and 13. 



CHAPTER V. 

Voyage to St. Thomas — Slavery — Corals. 

Tth. We called on Burnham & Co., and di- 
rected all letters sent for us to be forwarded to 
St. Thomas. Much regret was expressed by our 
hostess, and many of the boarders, at our de- 
parture, expecting we were to remain the winter. 
"We went on board at five o'clock p.m. "We fel/ 
under great discouragement, hearing of this 
steamer not being seaworthy, and of her unclean- 
ly condition; but, as passengers continued to 
come on board, our confidence increased. We 
were very glad to leave the intolerant and oppres- 
sive spirit that prevailed on the island ; but dear 
friends, whose acquaintance we had formed there, 
we did feel a regret to part from. We slept well, 
and at seven o'clock next morning, on the eighth, 
weighed anchor and steamed our way out of the 
harbor, taking our course for St. Thomas. The 
sea was calm, although the wind was ahead, and 
we glided along the coast at nine knots. As we 



60 JOURNAL. 

passed through the E^arrows, and rounded More 
Castle, the city of Havana looked far more beau- 
tiful than we had seen it before. 

Moro Castle is erected on a rock of great ex- 
tent, out in the sea. "We were told by our ship- 
mate, Whitney, from Matanzas, that a large num- 
ber of cells were excavated in the rock, below 
the structure, where criminals were placed, and 
few, if any, ever came out that were there im- 
mured; which we could readily give credit to, 
from what came under our own observation. I 
omitted to say, in the proper place, that just in 
front of our hotel was an old cathedral, where 
we were told all the instruments of torture were 
kept, that were in use during the Spanish Inquisi- 
tion, and werestill used for certain crimes, which 
we were not slow to believe, as Catholicism gov- 
erns every movement and measure; indeed, all 
the power of life and death is in their hands. 
We had mingled with Catholic priests in France, 
and found them social and polite ; but not so on 
this island, as they were passing us daily, in their 
long robes and cowls, without turning their heads 
or looking at us, probably having knowledge of 
our being Protestants; thaf of itself would brand 
us with heresy. 



PASSENGERS. 61 

After getting fully under way, they began to 
clean up, and in the course of the day got things 
comfortable. The captain and officers were 
social, and the passengers familiar ; our fare was 
good, and everything done to make us comfort- 
able, but we were both sea-sick. The French 
minister, with his young wife, from Mexico, was 
on board ; he is at least sixty years of age, con- 
siderably bowed, and quiet in his habits; his 
wife was a young girl of seventeen. He told me 
he had watched her as a school-girl, from early 
childhood. She was rather dull and unsocial; 
she had an attendant with her, of whom she 
made a companion. She was quite an heiress ; 
her father having recently died, left her, as we 
were told on board the ship, the sum of seven 
hundred thousand dollars. On hearing this, we 
did not so much wonder he wanted to marry her, 
but were somewhat surprised at her choice. 
Their manoeuvring for the first twenty-four hours 
out, created much merriment among the pas- 
sengers. We had all been forewarned by the 
steward that not one of our port-hole windows 
should be left open at night, as the sea was run- 
ning pretty high, and would, without doubt, cause 
the water to dash into the state-rooms. He even 

6* 



62 JOURNAL. 

went round himself and locked every window, 
but, by some means or other, the minister and 
his wife got theirs open; soon after which we 
shipped a sea, they having all the benefit of it in 
their berths, giving everything in their state- 
room a drenching. The stewardess was called 
up in great haste, as the minister and wife were 
dripping, and knew not what to do. Everything 
had to be removed from their state-room, and it 
was a long time before anything could be pro- 
cured to prepare them another bed, but the inci- 
dent caused merriment enough for the rest of 
the passage. 

We found there was much to learn on ship- 
board, and all the variety of characters to be 
met with, but we enjoyed it much after all. F. 
Busang, wife, and child, returning to G-ermany; 
George Branaman, wife, and child, from Lancas- 
ter County, Pennsylvania, and many others; Dr. 
Falls, Hicks, the rebel spy, and Howland, wife, 
and two daughters, from ^ew York, sympa- 
thizers with Hicks ; this party, with some others, 
constituted our ship's company. The only good 
Union man on board, we believe, was George 
Armond, with his son, from Chicago. Our course 
lay along the Island of Cuba, which we kept in 
sight most of its length. 



ST. DOMINGO. 63 

10th. Sea rough; wind, southeast. It is first 
day ; nearly all ot the passengers sick. 

11th. We are now opposite St. Domingo, and 
where the Spaniards are warring against them, to 
subdue them to the Spanish yoke. 

This government, a few years ago, was treach- 
erously given up to the Spanish Crown, by the 
Governor ; the Spaniards, failing to comply with 
the articles of agreement, the Dominicans, white 
and black, have declared for independence ; and 
now a most destructive war is raging. 

13th. "We passed in sight of numerous small 
islands, also, Porto Rico, which is mountainous and 
quite extensive, and entered the beautiful harbor 
of St. Thomas, on fourth day, the thirteenth of 
first mo., 1864, about two o'clock p.m., being ^ve 
days and seven hours performing the trip, a dis- 
tance of seven hundred miles. The town is called 
Charlotte Amelia, and stands on the north part 
of the basin, on an amphitheatre of hills, rising 
principally from the main street, which is the 
place of business. The houses are built on the 
side of the hill, and overlook each other, so that 
the back streets are on a level with the tops of 
the houses on the street below. Few of the 
houses have window-sashes. Santa Anna resides 



64 JOURNAL. 

here, and has a fine large house in the western 
part of the town. The island is poor, estates not 
cultivated, because the produce will not pay ex- 
penses. Labor is high, and employment in the city 
more congenial to the people of color. The cli- 
mate is mild and their wants few, and they prefer 
living on the little they can obtain to working on 
the plantations; hence, you see such great numbers 
of women selling a few oranges, bananas, potatoes, 
and other fruits and vegetables all day with active 
industry. In the evening the streets are lined 
with men, women, boys, and girls, of all colors, 
walking for recreation, dressed in white, with flag 
handkerchiefs around their heads, gowns trailing 
in dust, shoes down at heel, making a dreadful 
clatter as they walk ; they talk loud, and are dis- 
turbing to more quiet and retiring people. The 
first night of our arrival, we supposed there was 
a riot in the streets from the tumult heard, but 
on inquiry in the morning, as to the cause, were 
told it was their custom to perambulate the 
streets every night, which they keep up until near 
morning. 'No one appeared to take cognizance 
of their conduct, as it seemed to us they were 
continually under fearful apprehension. 

We had a letter of introduction to Robert 



THE GOVERNOR. 65 

Swift, which was delivered, and he, with his 
daughter, called on us at the Commercial Hotel, 
where we put up. Giles W. Smith, the Yice- 
Consul, and the wife of the Consul (he heing sick), 
having heard through some of their friends of our 
being there, soon called upon us and offered their 
services. He very politely introduced us to the 
Governor of the island and other gentlemen, in 
order to facilitate our prospect to hold a meeting 
in that place. 

The Governor, whose name is Rachae, is a very 
agreeable and polite man, granted freely all we 
asked relative to holding meetings in the houses, 
or in the public squares. His dwelling stands on a 
beautiful slope fronting the sea, but like all places, 
at least most we have ever seen, where slavery 
once existed, looked out of order, not well kept, 
while the grounds were overgrown with weeds ; 
but his warm and generous heart more than pre- 
ponderated against the neglected grounds and 
careless appearance around his otherwise beauti- 
ful home. 

The great number of ships, continually riding 
at anchor in the harbor, adds much to the beauty 
of the natural scenery, which in itself is magnifi- 
cent. The shipping hails from every clime, whose 



66 JOURNAL. 

inmates do mucli to enliven the Hilarity of the 
winter season during their stay, although here 
they have no winter in their year. Our winter 
months are chosen as the most fitting time for 
strangers to tarry on this or any other of the 
West India Islands, in consequence of yellow 
fever and other contagions, prevailing when the 
weather is warm or mild in ISTorthern latitudes. 
This island is suhject to dreadful hurricanes, 
which not unfrequently demolish houses, as well 
as contribute to the loss of many lives. "When, 
and by whom, St. Thomas was first settled, cannot 
be traced with any certainty. That its safe and 
commodious harbor early attracted the first navi- 
gators of the Caribbean Sea, especially the Dutch, 
as a port of refuge, or place of repair and re- 
freshment, there can be little doubt. About that 
time some of the English settled at St. Croix. In 
1625, some individuals took up their abode at St. 
Thomas, the superiority of the harbor over any 
other of the Caribbees, confirmed the supposition. 
The first settlers fied from Crab Island, to escape 
death from the hands of the merciless Spaniards, 
who made a descent on that island, sparing neither 
aged women or children, wherever found. Those 
who found refuge on the Island of St. Thomas, 



TOWERS. 67 

were saved from a cruel death, only by commit- 
ting their frail little bark to the mercy of the 
winds and waves, not knowing wliitber they went. 
Here they found there had been a settlement, as 
oranges, citrons, limes, and bananas were growing 
in abundance. 

There are on all of these islands an infinite 
number of beautiful land and sea birds. On this 
island there is but little good soil, which, no 
doubt, prevented its being thickly settled for a 
long series of years. It is the general opinion of 
the inhabitants of St. Thomas, that the island 
was at one time possessed by the Buccaneers. 
Three old towers are within the walls of Fort 
Christian, and two others on hills north and 
east of the town, which gave rise to this idea. 
The romantic names of Black Beard and also 
Beard's Castles have been given to the towers on 
the hills, being so pointed out to strangers that 
visit the island. They form a part of the pic- 
turesque panorama of the surrounding scenery 
on entering the harbor, with their bold outline 
against the sky, with the lights streaming through 
their embrasures ; the imagination is readily at 
work, busy filling up a view of this pleasing ef- 
fect upon the mind. The tower within Fort 



68 JOURNAL. 

Christian, according to tradition on the island, 
was there when the Danes took possession of it, 
but it must have been built by the Dutch in 1667. 
Some now say they were built by the Danes 
after they formed in a colony, and were in peace- 
able possession of the island. Gorgen Iverson 
was the first Governor, despatched by the Golden 
Crown. A company was formed called the Dan- 
ish "West India and Guinea Company. On the 
sixteenth of March, 1667, they published that the 
directors, six in number, with at least two thou- 
sand rix dollars invested in the company, and one 
hundred rix dollars should constitute a share- 
holder. They now began to make their laws. 
Every person who speaks Danish is bound to at- 
tend church every Sabbath when the drum beats, 
or, on failure, to pay a fine of twenty-five pounds 
of tobacco. So, we see the law of force prevailed 
even among those isolated people, who had suf- 
fered greatly from others, as soon as the power 
passed into their own hands. Every householder 
was bound to encourage his servants to be pious, 
and have morning and evening prayers. I think 
this last must have been a more difiicult task 
than handing over the tobacco. Another of their 
laws was, when the drum beats, every man should 



WAR. 69 

apprise his neighbor, that all might be in readi- 
ness in case of invasion. If in the night, he must 
fire a random shot, as also his neighbor, or suffer 
a severe penalty. But really I cannot see that we 
have made any considerable advance on this point 
for two hundred years ; as now, the laws relating 
to war, offensive or defensive, are much the same 
as in that early day. Genius, in bringing out in- 
ventions for carrying on war and taking life, is a 
thousand-fold more effective. Calling to mind 
the question of one of the inspired, to the people 
of his day, " Shall the sword devour forever!" 

" Shall strife and war forever reign, 
And God's fair earth be stained 
With life's blood of the robust youths, 
To deeds of slaughter trained ? 

*' And vengeful passion fire the soul, 

Where Grod's pure love should dwell ; 
And earth outdo, in sin and shame. 
The clergy's fabled hell ? 

" While cripples hobble o'er the earth, 
Aided by crutch, or cane, 
And all the skies seem clothed in black, 
Mourning the early slain ? 



70 JOURNAL. 

" And pauper houses e'er "be crammed 
With victims made by war, 
And crimes that follow in its train, 
"Which all the pure abhor ? 

" And courts and prisons still remain, 
To crush the erring soul, 
That should be washed at wisdom's fount, 
And by our love made whole ? 

" And man deprave his fellow-man, 
In hoarding filthy pelf, 
And strong ones crush the poor and weak, 
In greedy gain for self? 

" And debts by millions multiplied, 
Poor toilers to enslave, 
And change by force the honest few 
To murderer, thief, or knave ?" 

The highly gifted Franklin tells us, there never 
was a good war, or a bad peace. 

Take away the sword; states can be saved 
without it. — E. JBulwer Lytton, 

War is .entirely inefficient towards redressing 
wrong. — A. L. 

I hold war the greatest of human crimes. — Lord 
Brougham. 

War suspends every idea of justice and human- 
ity. — M, Wicker, 



LABORING CLASSES. 71 

War, a damnable profession, a trade of barbar- 
ism. — Charles Sumner, 

" If we believe in the universal brotherhood, 
and acknowledge the Divine law, of love to God 
and man, as embodying our whole Christian duty, 
we cannot go to war, or encourage others to en- 
gage in it." 

But I have digressed far from my subject-mat- 
ter, relating to our introduction to the Governor 
of the Island of St. Thomas. 

We are told by every one with whom we con- 
versed, that the laboring class is so idle that they 
cannot be induced to work, except a little at a 
time; that when they earn a few dollars, they will 
take a rest until it is spent, and then work again; 
that great inducements had been offered them to 
work on the plantations, but they could not be 
induced to do so. Laboring men, who work 
about the wharves at loading and unloading ves- 
sels, can do tolerably well as to earning a liveli- 
hood, at certain periods; but when the hurry 
is over, they have nothing to do, and small 
pieces of land have been offered them, at a mod- 
erate rent, but they will not work it, when they 
might obtain ready sale for their fruits and vege- 
tables. They cannot be induced to leave the city. 



72 JOURNAL. 

Hence St. Thomas is dependent on other islands 
for vegetables, and all other articles of food, — 
principally St. John and Tortola. This state- 
ment we found to be incorrect, both from infor- 
mation derived from respectable white men, as 
well as colored, although our informants had 
not intended to give us wrong impressions. As 
the liberation of the slaves was not done volun- 
tarily, but through insurrection, they have never 
been looked upon, as far as we could learn, as 
free people, save by the Governor of the island, 
and there appears a disposition still to keep them 
in bondage. The small prices offered them for 
labor on the plantations, which are exceedingly 
hard to cultivate, being mostly rocky hillsides, 
or on the tops of what we should call mountains, 
where there is a little table-land, is not sufficient 
to procure them a subsistence. As a consequence, 
feeling themselves despised, and most of them in 
abject poverty, they seemed to care little how 
they obtained their living, whether by plunder 
or otherwise, although there are many exceptions 
to this rule. The country is so unproductive, the 
planters care little whether it is cultivated or not, 
— merchandise and other business being far 
more profitable. 



COLORED PEOPLE. 73 

After ascending one of the heights, on our 
return, on a very hot morning, we met a number 
of old colored people, bowed with age, leaning on 
their staffs, endeavoring to ascend the mountain- 
top, saying they were going there to work, for 
which they would receive a few pennies. They 
were wretchedly clad, and in great degradation. 
We stopped them, and had some conversation 
with them, and gave them a little money, while 
we deeply deplored their condition. All this, we 
were satisfied, might have been otherwise, and 
they elevated to feel their manhood and woman- 
hood, had justice and truth, which are the habi- 
tation and throne of the Almighty, been the 
guiding star of the people who had long held 
them in bondage. Of misery and wretchedness 
we have seen a gre^-t amount, as well as on the 
island we had just left, where oppression and 
violence reign. There is ever wasting and de- 
struction, and we were satisfied while there, that 
if the present course continues to the freed 
people, insurrections, with all their horrors, will 
be the result, as oppression is said to make "the 
wise man mad." So wretched and miserable a 
class of colored people, as we saw everywhere on 
this island, we had never seen before, and de- 

7* 



74 JOURNAL. 

moralization seemed to us without a parallel. 
One lady, who lived opposite our hotel, from one 
of the 'New Eugland States, who had been re- 
siding there for a long time, with her husband, 
whose health was impaired, told us they could 
but wonder that God had liot sunk the island in 
the bottom of the sea, Jong before, in consequence 
of the wickedness and immorality of the people. 
But we wish it to be understood, that we found 
exceptions to this general rule, as there are some 
worthy and excellent people on the island. We 
need not ask what has brought about this state 
of things. The judgment of every thinking in- 
dividual must be convinced that the curse of 
slavery is at the bottom of it all; that its deadly 
fangs are more to be dreaded than the most poi- 
sonous viper. The coils of the anaconda or boa 
constrictor are but its fit emblems, when twined 
around the souls and bodies of the defenceless. 
All kinds of animals have been tamed but man; 
his tongue is described as full of deadly poison, 
but that is merely the outspeaking of his soul, 
or rather his animal nature, as soul he has but 
little, for that is his humanity, and he who can 
bind and oppress his fellow-man, laying upon 



A SLAVEHOLDER. 75 

him heavy burdens, has but little humanity in 
his breast. 

In company one evening with a man from 
Porto Rico (which we did not learn until just be- 
"fore he left), we had a long conversation on the 
subject of slavery. He not wishing we should 
know where he belonged, told us he knew much 
of the condition of slavery on that island; telling 
how well the system prospered; that the slaves 
were as happy as birds; that they were fed on 
the best of food, such as the planters eat; and 
laid up a great deal of money; that &ve men, in 
a few years, accumulated three thousand dollars 
apiece, which their master held in trust, they not 
wishing to purchase their freedom with it. They 
had wives and children on the plantation, who 
were happy as they ; but some contagion making 
its appearance on the island, the five men fell 
victims to the disease. The money the owner of 
the slaves had held, he made use of in supplying 
their places with other slaves. We asked, if that 
was a correct statement, whether he thought it 
was just in the man, and why he had not given 
their families their liberty, if he retained the 
money? His answer was, '' They would not have 
their freedom," saying, "a woman in advanced 



76 JOURNAL. 

age was offered her freedom, and would not ac- 
cept it, at the time, saying, ^ Massa, what does I 
want of freedom? You's alles been so good to 
me. !N"o, I will not leave you ; I wants no free- 
dom; you may keep all my money.'" We told 
him, admitting all he said to be true, which was 
entirely unnatural, ''Did it not plainly show, that 
by being downtrodden and oppressed, they had 
become greatly degraded, and that the cupidity 
of the white man had subverted the laws of Grod, 
for which the day of retribution was at hand ? " 
He said, "Madam, I think it is time for me to 
go," and soon bowed himself out, giving us 
sufficient evidence, before he left, that he was the 
very man who had perpetrated the foul deed, and 
given so vivid a description of the blessings of 
slavery, which he had been narrating. 

15th. Took a walk around the hill, and pro- 
cured some pieces of coral, which is very cheap 
about this island, and abundant in the ocean. 
We walked for a long way on the sea-side, before 
arriving at the spot where a great variety of 
corals are sold. The colored people dive in order 
to procure them, and mostly pry them from the 
rocks. When first taken from the water, they 
are stone color, but on being exposed to rain and 



CORALS. 77 

sun, they become bleached to the whiteness of 
alabaster, while many of the beautiful shells, pro- 
cured in the same way, or washed up on the 
shores, are transparent as glass, and of pure 
whiteness. There are many coral reefs, extend- 
ing out in the sea. After bringing the corals to 
the shore, the most delicate of many varieties of 
all fantastic figures found among them are re- 
moved to the dwellings of the divers, where 
scaffolds are erected, on which they are spread, 
and exposed to rain and sun until of dazzling 
whiteness; the coarser and less delicate, for 
bleaching, are left on the shore. It is a splendid 
sight to look over the many varieties, and take 
account of their perfect symmetry, of every im- 
aginable shape. The Queen of Conchs is a shell 
of surpassing beauty. One was brought us, just 
as it was taken from the ocean, with the inhabi- 
tant and rightful owner of the tenement just 
within the door, which is ever ajar. We pur- 
chased it, dwelling and all, and I soon set myself 
to work to eject the occupant, but he was a great 
deal stronger than we supposed, and resisted the 
invaders of his right, even unto death, letting us 
know that "his house was his castle," for as soon 
as I touched the skin of the animal, he darted 



78 JOURNAL. 

like lightning into the deepest recesses of his 
stronghold, from whence no entreaties, or threat- 
enings, would drive him forward, save by plung- 
ing tenement and its occupant in hot water; so 
that, with all our skill set to work, we at last had 
to resort to hanging ; a hard fate, but the only re- 
sort left; and this was done by bending a strong 
wire, so as to penetrate into the interior of the ani- 
mal's dwelling, which caught him in the trap; 
but I think he hung suspended for twenty-four 
hours, before he let go his hold on life, which he 
clung to with the greatest tenacity. This animal 
is near the size of a man's hand; thev are often 
used for the table, but I should dispense with 
them for food, if all are as hard to procure as 
this one. We had them on our table; they are 
like the hard part of a clam. This shell is of 
unusual beauty, having the tints of the rainbow. 
We purchased many other varieties, which we 
brought back with us to the United States, being 
highly prized, and of much value here. They 
are as much admired by our numerous friends as 
by ourselves, and have tended to beguile many 
tedious hours of loneliness and solitude, since my 
return; feeling even now, while preparing this 
work for the perusal of others, that I seem to be 



REFLECTIONS. 79 

living the time over again: "but not witli the 
same enlivening pleasure, as when I wandered 
over that, and many other islands, in company 
with my loved and honored hushand, whose 
sweet counsel is heard no more on earth ; his re- 
deemed spirit having gone to "that land where 
angels only dwell, and years have no ending." 
His cheerfulness ever contributed to keep off en- 
nui, or depression, even when I was an invalid. 
Having an eye for the beautiful in nature, he saw 
new charms in every scene, as well on the "beau- 
tiful sea" as in the enchanting verdure of the 
landscape of those tropical isles, saying, with an 
inspired poet of the Seasons, "'These, as they 
change. Almighty Father! these are but the 
varied God ! ' 'Not only is the rolling year full 

4. 

of Thee, but Thou art ever present, ever felt; and 
Thy glory on the broad bosom of the ocean, as in 
the shadowy vale! Thy goodness and Thy love 
are unconfined. Thou pourest Thy sunbeams 
o'er this world of ours, while we poor thought- 
less mortals go plodding on, boasting ourselves 
of to-morrow, not giving ourselves time (at least 
many of us), to reflect, that to-morrow's sun to 
us may never rise." 

I must not fail to remark that visitors, who 



80 JOURNAL. 

take up tlieir abode at this very excellent hotel, 
each couple have a steady waiter appointed, on 
whom they can call at all times for everything 
they wish, whether at table, in the drawing-room, 
or their own chamber, which we found a great 
luxury. The name of our attendant was John 
Shilling, a kind-hearted, generous fellow, ever 
ready to wait on us with the nicest fruits of the 
season, as well as choice viands at the table. 

My dear husband and self were delighted with 
his attentions, often giving him some extra coins. 
1^0 one, who has not found himself far from his 
own dear native land, entirely among strangers, can 
realize the pleasure of having a kind heart to feel 
for, and willing hand to perform many little kind 
offices, so frequently needful. We found many 
other people of color on that island kind, polite, 
and gentlemanly, many who were merchants and 
shopkeepers of different kinds, merchant tailors, 
and others engaged in different employments, the 
same as the whites ; but caste is quite as observa- 
ble here as in our own prejudiced country. In 
front of our hotel was what is called by some the 
Emancipation Garden. I presume the land was 
purchased by the freed people, many of whom 
are now rich, as we heard little or nothing said 



MOONLIGHT. 81 

about it by the whites. It consists of a large area 
of ground, inclosed with a nice picket fence, on 
the border of the sea, grounds laid out with much 
good taste, containing a great variety of exotic 
plants and shrubs, with many ornamental trees, 
covered with flowers of exquisite beauty as well as 
odoriferous perfumes. There we found the ipe- 
cacuanha tree, from which we procured some of 
the pods, of great size, containing the seeds from 
which this drug is made; together with a host 
of flowers and plants of primal beauty. At this 
hotel we had a grand view of the sea and harbor 
from the spacious balcony in the front of our 
house, where we might sit at all times and enjoy 
the sea-breezes, and spend our evenings in that 
charming spot when the full-orbed moon was 
pouring forth its light and shadows. It was a 
scene of surpassing beauty! The shadows of 
moonlight are exquisitely beautiful in any land, 
but it seemed to shine on this beautiful island 
with more than usual brightness. 



CHAPTER YI. 

Eeligious Meetings— Santa Cruz — Insurrections in 
THE Islands. 

17th. Fine day; though there is no calculating 
on the weather ; showers spring up suddenly even 
when least expected. The thermometer ranges 
from 72° to 80°, yet we do not feel the heat, when 
out of the sun, so oppressive, owing to constant 
breezes. Feeling our minds drawn to hold a 
meeting among the people, the proprietor of the 
hotel kindly offered his saloon, which was capa- 
ble of seating a large number, and in the evening 
was well filled with white and colored, large 
numbers being on the balcony, and in passage- 
ways. The hour appointed was 7J o'clock, and 
after perfect quiet was enjoined, the company 
was addressed for half an hour on the nature of 
true and vital religion — giving a brief synopsis 
of the faith of the Society of Friends, and what 
constituted a call to the Gospel ministry, which 
was proved satisfactorily, as we thought, to every 



RELIGIOUS MEETINGS. 83 

unprejudiced mind, great numbers coming for- 
ward to acknowledge their entire approval. 

I had, at the commencement of the discourse, 
told them how rejoiced we felt, on leaving the 
land of slavery in Cuba, to find ourselves on 
free soil, where there was freedom of speech, 
freedom of thought, freedom of the press, and 
where all classes of men stood upright, realiz- 
ing their manhood, under the sacred boon of 
liberty; and mentally cried out as we set our 
foot on what we considered free soil, "All hail 
to the land of the free !" Then stated it was 
slavery and oppression that had involved the 
greatest country in the world, our own United 
States of America, in the calamitous war now 
upon us. But we had not expected to find a 
vestige of it on that island, or a sympathizer with 
its friends, among them ; saying, with the excep- 
tion of that foul blot, slavery, in the United States, 
its benign laws excelled all others on the globe. 
From this, Hicks and his friends took umbrage, 
and deserted their post, all the rest remaining 
quiet, trying to draw nearer and nearer to our 
standing-place. At the conclusion, a meeting 
was announced for the day following, at four 
o'clock, at Cocoanut Square. 



84 JOURNAL. 

"We went according to appointment, and met a 
very large number of all classes and colors, and 
I had not stood long on a platform erected for 
tlie purpose, before it commenced raining fast; 
we were under the necessity of dispersing, as we 
were in the open air, but first announced a meet- 
ing at the same hour the day following, at the 
same place, nineteenth of the month, third day. 

The following day we again met the people ; 
numbers having increased, the square was liter- 
ally crowded. We trust counsel and advice was 
held forth suited to their conditions, and at the 
same time directing their attention to the gift 
within, that would teach them their duty to their 
God, and to each other; holding out the great 
importance to the white people of making use of 
every means in their power for the elevation and 
enlightenment of the emancipated ; telling them 
no country could prosper under oppression ; de- 
siring them to turn their attention to the proper 
means of furnishing them with suitable labor; 
stating the statistics of what was being done in 
the United States by the hands of laborers in the 
improvement of our country, and cultivation of 
our soil, some parts of it as sterile as theirs, 
which had to give way under the hand of indus- 



RELiaiOUS MEETINGS. 85 

try, and was made now to blossom as the rose ; 
the iron bands of our railroads, uniting together 
iN'orth and South, East and West; that we had 
observed much labor needful to be performed 
on that island, which would greatly tend to ele- 
vate, and work a wonderful change among them; 
so that instead of the colored people perambulat- 
ing the streets, both day and night, in idleness 
and immorality, they would find that industry, 
sobriety, and temperance, was the road to wealth 
and distinction, and would prepare all classes to 
become good citizens. No fear would then be 
entertained of insurrectionary movements. 

After an hour spent in giving advice of this 
kind, we thought it best to close the opportunity, 
all parties appearing well satisfied, shaking hands 
until we were weary. We took a walk around 
the town this morning, and ascended one of the 
high hills, on which several families of the Levy's 
reside. One of them, seeing us strolling along, 
invited us into his house, and showed us great 
kindness. We continued our walk along the street 
at the side of the Governor's residence. We re- 
gretted to see it so much neglected, both garden 
and grounds about his house. We passed along 
and were joined by an elderly citizen, who con- 

8* 



86 JOURNAL. 

ducted us around the hills into the lower part of 
the town, and along the street that leads into the 
main street near our hotel. It was a pleasant 
walk, and gave us an opportunity of seeing much 
we had not seen before. We had previously 
walked to the western extremity, where the 
poorer classes of colored reside ; they are crowded 
together in small houses, but for the most part, 
cleanly for the class, most of whom were decently 
clad. 

On the morning of the twentieth, at Rve o'clock, 
Captain Watlington called to inform us he would 
be readv to sail for Santa Cruz at nine o'clock, 
but that Brenaman and JBidwell, our fellow-pas- 
sengers from Havana, had disappointed him, by 
taking passage with Captain James. He seemed 
much incensed, but according to their representa- 
tion, without cause. He kept putting us oiF, from 
hour to hour, until four o'clock, soon after which 
we were conducted on board by the clerk and 
waiter, and weighing anchor, got under way a 
little before ^Ye o'clock. The passage was six 
hours and a few minutes. I soon became ex- 
tremely seasick, not being used to a sailing ves- 
sel, and continued so the whole distance of sixty 
miles. 



SANTA CRUZ. 87 

At eleven o'clock p. m. we landed, but tlie cus- 
tom-house officer would not let us take anything 
away, and were conducted to the Widow Foster's, 
on Ocean Street, near the sea. We went imme- 
diately to our chamber, which was poor and badly 
furnished. 

After breakfast, informed the hostess we had 
a letter for Eliza Arestrop, and if we liked her 
apartments, thought we would reside with her. 
We found everything more to our wishes at her 
house, more comforts and more suitable com- 
pany, and soon had our baggage brought over. 
Dr. Joseph Shippen, mother and sister, Newton 
Baldwin, and ourselves, constituted the company. 

21st. We feel like being at home. Delivered 
our letters of introduction to E. Fry and mother, 
from our own city, Eliza Arestrop, William 
Wood, I. A. Corea, and widow of Dr. Smith. 
Dr. Shippen introduced us to a person by the 
name of Dunlap, a grocer, or shipchandler on 
the wharf, whose store was the coflee-house, a 
place of resort for Americans. Our board is 
ten dollars each a w^eek. We breakfast at eight 
o'clock, dine at two o'clock, and sup at seven 
o'clock. Our dinners were abundant, but break- 
fast and tea ordinary. They seldom had butter 



88 JOURNAL. 

on any of the islands tliat we could eat; but the 
landlady tries to please, and sets a good table. 
We felt satisfied she did all in her power to make 
us comfortable. She is now aged, and is one of 
the aristocracy of the island. 

22d. The people have heard of the meeting 
that was held at St. Thomas, and were very solic- 
itous we should hold meetings here, and our 
hostess has kindly offered her parlor and dining- 
room for the purpose. 

Before announcing our wishes, we concluded 
to call on the Judge, and know his will, so that 
we need not trespass on the laws of the land. 
We found him a true democrat; knew no dis- 
tinction of color. " All classes of citizens are 
placed," said he, " upon the same footing." He 
gave his entire approbation to our holding meet- 
ings, when and where we pleased, and even 
suggested the yard of Eliza Arestrop as being 
very suitable to hold a quiet meeting. Prelimi- 
naries being all arranged, word was given out 
that a meeting would be held in the parlors of 
Eliza Arestrop, at seven and a half o'clock, on 
first day evening, the twenty-fourth instant, if 
we might judge by the expression of the people, 
to much satisfaction. A large number gathered, 



* INSURRECTION. 89 

but some were liiglily indignant at remarks tliat 
were made, as at St. Thomas, relative to emanci- 
pation, telling us, after the meeting, that they 
were liberated only through insurrection, and 
would still be far better off in slavery, at that 
time; that it had only tended to make them a set 
of lazy, lounging loafers, and had deprived them, 
the whites, of their property, which the govern- 
ment of Denmark had no right to do ; that be- 
fore emancipation was proclaimed they were a 
happy people; but since, the most aristocratic 
among them have been reduced to poverty. 
They censured the Governor very highly, who 
made the proclamation, and said he would have 
lost his life, in consequence of the indignation 
of the people, had he not fled from the island ; 
giving us a synopsis of the horrors of the scene 
during the time the insurrectionists were peram- 
bulating that town, as well as others on the 
island, which was horrible in the extreme. 

The three islands, St. Thomas, St. John, and 
St. Croix, as we have seen, were successively col- 
onized by the Danes; supplied with slaves, im- 
ported by the Danish West India and Guiana 
Company, from the coast of Africa. This sup- 
ply was, at a very early period in the history 



90 JOURNAL. 

of the colonies, greater than at the present 
time. A very large number were of the most 
savage character. When all the islands had 
been supplied, they numbered together over 
thirty-one thousand. To subdue them to bond- 
age, and compel them to labor, led to the most 
risrorous measures. Life and limb were often 
sacrificed, that order might be maintained, and 
refractory spirits overcome. At first, almost un- 
limited power was held by masters over them. 
By degrees, the government restricted this power, 
and as civilization advanced placed the slaves 
under more humane laws. But little, however, 
had been done to bring them under the hallowed 
influence of Christianity, except by pious colo- 
nists. That the islands reaped a great advantage 
from the improved character of these slaves, 
there can be no doubt. After this, there were 
certain laws enacted, relative to the bondage of 
children; that at the age of twelve years it 
should entirely cease. It produced little or no 
demonstrations of joy when this was made 
known; discontent was rather manifested, and 
soon an insurrection was plotted. They felt 
more anxious than ever for the sweets of free- 
dom. As their concerted plan was adopted, 



INSURRECTION. 91 

great numbers joining with them, it astonished 
the people it had not been more extensively di- 
vulged. But few, if an}^, of the planters or 
citizens had the least knowledge of its existence; 
it was known, however, to some officers of the 
government, and warnings had been written from 
Tortola. 

Seventh month second, ushered in the Sabbath 
morning of the commencement of the insurrec- 
tion, with its usual quietness and peace. To- 
wards evening a commotion was visible, but few 
felt any uneasiness. Simultaneously, alarms rang 
out from many estates, at the given signal, and 
as these alarms spread out from every part of 
the island, consternation and uproar, tumult and 
terror, spread on all sides; fear, in its most bitter 
form, seized upon the minds of the inhabitants 
of Frederickstadt and the estates contiguous, and 
many rushed immediately to the shipping lying 
in the harbor. Some of the inhabitants applied 
to the authorities to resist with military force, 
but were refused. The night was one of horror; 
terror conjectured the worst consequences, but 
no violence was offered during the night to per- 
sons or property, as its sleepless hours passed. 
A message was despatched, with all haste, to 



92 JOURNAL. 

Governor Van Scbolter, informing him of the 
insurrection, and requesting his immediate pres- 
ence. At eight o'clock, on the morning of the 
third, about two thousand negroes came into the 
town, armed with various weapons. They went 
directly to the fort,* and demanded their free- 
dom, but were told that no one there had au- 
thority to grant their request. 

Their number had now increased to three 
thousand, and their passions becoming greatly 
inflamed, they proceeded to the destruction of 
property. The police offices and judge's house 
were completely sacked, and documents of great 
importance destroyed, or scattered to the four 
winds. They now became more violent, and de- 
clared if their freedom was not proclaimed by 
four o'clock, they would burn the town, which 

* This fort is a formidable structure, standing on the border 
of the sea, in the town of Trederickstadt, where a large num- 
ber of soldiers are stationed ; but, in this case, they could do 
nothing. The people were desperate; being driven to mad- 
ness. I could but picture to my mind's eye their oppressed 
condition to be our own, we cannot tell what measures we 
might resort to, to gain our liberty, which, with many, is 
dearer than life itself. In their fury they tore up the whip- 
ping-post, which same thing we could have done, and attach no 
blame to them for so doing. 



FREEDOM PROCLAIMED. 93 

they had entirely in their possession, since the 
commencement of the insurrection. The very 
worst consequences were apprehended, if they 
should be resisted. A citizen, whom we know 
well, who fled to the fort for protection, impru- 
dently made some remarks, which exasperated 
them. They immediately proceeded to his house 
and store, and laid everything waste. The Gov- 
ernor soon arrived and entered the fort; a great 
crowd of negroes had now gathered around the 
walls. Intense anxiety prevailed on every hand; 
the commander of the fort repeatedly asked 
for orders. At length, to the amazement of 
the officers and citizens, freedom was proclaim- 
ed from the ramparts, by the Governor, to all 
slaves in the Danish West India Islands, which 
the slaves could not believe. The third night 
a band of negroes attempted to enter the town, 
about ten o'clock. Efforts were made to pre- 
vent them; they were ordered back by the of- 
ficers ; not obeying, a blank cartridge was fired ; 
still pressing on in the most daring and dis- 
orderly manner, grape-shot was at length poured 
in their ranks, killing several, and wounding 
many. One of the inhabitants told us she saw 
from the ship on which she had been placed, 

9 



94 JOURNAL. 

fragments of bodies flying in the air, when they 
were fired on. They all now fled, and gave up 
their attempt upon the place. The following 
night was one of greater horror than those pre- 
vious. Fires were everywhere visible, lighting 
up the very heavens. They had the entire pos- 
session of the island, except the fort. Most of 
the women and children had been conveyed to 
the shipping in the harbor. It was expected the 
slaves would plunder all the houses, and murder 
the inhabitants. In the country, however, the 
greatest disorder prevailed, and on many estates 
destruction was the result. 

On the morning of the fourth the startling in- 
telligence was announced of the insurrection of 
St. Thomas, and they were compelled to proclaim 
freedom at once, in the public streets, at the 
drum-head. A crowd of women and boys fol- 
lowed the drum, and shouted and danced merrily. 
It was received on the plantations in the most 
quiet manner, and all continued their work. 

This was the case, too, at St. Croix; but they 
were afterward under great alarm at the latter 
place, requesting the militia from St. Thomas to 
come on, and sent to Porto Rico for Spanish 
troops, as well as to an English man-of-war lying 



* INSURRECTION. 95 

in the harbor of St. Thomas. Troops went on, 
and found them in great disorder, but were not 
marched out, — the Governor having gone on 
with them from St. Thomas. The next day, 
without the orders of the Governor, they were 
marched out, and the insurrection was quelled; 
but not until all the troops were procured 
from the two islands, as well as Spanish troops, 
numbering five hundred infantry, with a division 
of sappers and miners, and two pieces of ord- 
nance. 

The island now presented the most desolate 
appearance; great destruction of property and 
loss of life. The Governor immediately left the 
island for Denmark. That the slaves did not do 
greater violence, is the wonder of the greater part 
of the inhabitants, both in the destruction of 
property and sacrifice of the lives of the people, 
as they held at their mercy all that was possessed 
on the island, and had in their hands abundant 
means to inflame their passions, to promote 
rapine and murder. A good degree of order 
and quiet was eventually effected by the Spanish 
troops. Finding the emancipated slaves were 
many of them not inclined to labor on the plan- 



96 JOURNAL. 

tations for the small pittance of from four to ten 
cents a day, with one salt herring and a quart of 
meal, the planters considered this the great dilBi- 
culty to be overcome. 

This is where the difficulty lies in all the West 
India Islands. The owners of the plantations are 
not willing to pay the people for their labor, let 
them toil hard as they may. Twenty cents per 
day would insure laborers sufficient to do all the 
work, without the importation of Coolies, whom 
they impose on to the greatest extent. There 
would be no cry, " The people are idle," were it 
not that covetousness and cupidity bring about 
this state of things. They had been receiving 
the labor and life's blood of that poor oppressed 
people, without any remuneration save the salt 
herring and, as they told us, musty corn-meal. 
'Eo wonder the people would not work, although 
we advised them to labor for the smallest pit- 
tance, rather than live in idleness. The same cry 
of idleness and indifference to labor is at this 
time being proclaimed by planters in the South, 
in our own country, but with no more truth 
than in the West Indies. The labor of the freed 
people is coveted in the still would-be Slave 
States, without any more compensation than be- 



SLAVERY. 97 

fore they were proclaimed free ; and this iniqui- 
tous practice is being resorted to wherever the 
people of color, once in bondage, and being 
ignorant of their rights, are too defenceless to 
stand up like men. But we have a Congress of 
invincibles, who seem bound to protect them at 
all hazards. 

I heard a thrilling lecture not long since, de- 
livered by General O. 0. Howard. His remarks 
on the cruelty of the planters towards this "rob- 
bed and spoiled people," gave full confirmation 
of their daily tragical and cruel treatment, even 
at this late period of their emancipation. The 
same cause will ever produce like effect in any 
country. What a blessing it would prove to all 
classes, on those islands, if some like those al- 
luded to in our country, stood up boldly for the 
rights of the defenceless, regardless of fear or 
favor; free from covetousness and undue love 
of money, which is said to be the root of all 
evil. 

On the twenty-ninth of seventh mo., 1849, or- 
dinances were passed to compel all to resume 
work, and restrain laborers from leaving the es- 
tates; with many other stringent laws imposed 
upon them; but it did not prove successful. 

9* 



98 JOURNAL. 

The people had got a taste of freedom, and 
thought they were free, and would not consent to 
be again enslaved. The government of Denmark 
paid one hundred dollars per head for every slave 
that had been emancipated on the island ; many 
believed it to be ruined ; others hoped all would 
yet be well. At St. Thomas the most cruel meas- 
ures were resorted to, to compel them to work. 
The heart sickened at the constant use of the 
whipping-post ; but the people thought that bet- 
ter than to allow those to stand up as men, whose 
elevation and manhood it was then in their power 
to promote, and who should have acted as a 
father to his child when not able to walk alone. 
Another Governor, by the name of Hansen, was 
sent over, who was to act for the three islands, St. 
Thomas, St. Croix, and St. John. He found the 
ordinance, passed by the people, did not work 
well, and accordingly they all again assembled, 
and by mutual consent, with the sanction of the 
Governor, passed laws, which were sanctioned 
by the Danish government, which, we think, are 
as oppressive as the first ; and when found to be 
less so, by the planters or their agents, as far as 
we ascertained by the slaves themselves, they fell 
back upon the old code, if unsuccessful with the 



WAGES. 99 

latter. Heavy penalties were annexed to tlieir 
slightest omission of duties. Their first engage- 
ment is for a year, together with all their children 
included, between the ages of ^Ye and fifteen 
years, and other relatives who are remaining with 
them. The contract is made in writing; the use 
of a house, or dwelling-rooms, built and repaired 
by the estate, but to be kept in order by the 
laborers. The use of a piece of ground thirty 
feet square, for a first-class and second-class la- 
borer. If it be standing ground, which we think 
is that of the poorest quality, fifty feet. Third- 
class laborers are not entitled to any, but it may 
be allowed by the employer. Wages at the rate 
of fifteen cents per day to every first-class labor- 
er ; second-class, ten cents ; third-class, ^ye cents 
only. When the usual allowance of meal and 
herring has been furnished, full weekly allowance 
shall be taken by the employer, for five cents a 
day, or twenty-five cents a week. ^N'o attach- 
ment of wages, for private debts, to be allowed ; 
not more than two-thirds to be deducted for 
debts on the estate, unless otherwise ordered by 
the magistrate. 

Let me, for a moment, take time to be allowed 
to ask the question, Are these freed people, to 



100 JOURNAL. 

whom liberty was proclaimed by the Governors 
of the islands, and sanctioned by the King of 
Denmark? If so, why those oppressive laws 
over the weak and hitherto downtrodden slaves ? 
If this is freedom, who could desire it? But it 
is working in the West Indies just as it will in 
our Southern States, — as insurrections will break 
out everywhere under the same treatment and 
discipline. The late insurrection at Jamaica is 
but an example of what the other islands will be. 
We are well acquainted with the houses or 
dwelling-rooms of which they speak, being small 
stone huts, with ground floor, and one or two 
little contracted windows. The piece of ground 
is generally in front, which they (the slaves) told 
us was trampled down so hard they could not 
cultivate it ; and some that had the fifty feet, in 
the interior, told us, as soon as they bad brought 
it to a state capable of producing, the employers 
said they would give them other plots, requiring 
theirs for very particular uses. The third-class 
laborers are not entitled to any. !N"ow, if this 
class be the most inefficient, and the least able to 
procure subsistence by their labor, what are they 
to do? The ^ye cents per day merely pays for 
the meal and herring ; how are they to procure 



WAGES. 101 

clothing, or any of the necessaries of life ? What 
are they to do when sick? "We saw no pro- 
vision made for them anywhere, except at St. 
Thomas, and we presume very little was done for 
them there. What has the first-class lahorer left 
after he has paid twenty-five cents per week out of 
his fifteen cents per day? He has but fifty cents 
for his week's work, for the clothing of himself 
and family, and, it may be, sick and aged among 
them, who must endure great privation and suf- 
fering as a consequence. And the second-class 
laborer is still worse ofi", — the herring and meal 
of itself absorbing just half his wages. What 
tyranny! what usurpation! They talk of redress 
for grievances through the magistrate, or judge ; 
but they are not allowed to leave the plantations ; 
and if they were, supposing the magistrate takes 
part with the planters, where are they to find 
redress? In consequence of this, large numbers 
of them will not work on the plantations ; they 
had rather spend their time in almost any other 
way to procure a subsistence, as the labor is ex- 
cessively hard, under a tropical sun, and after all, 
they receive next to nothing for it, — the proprie- 
tors of the soil then, as at this time, designing to 
make their labor as remunerative to themselves, 



102 JOURNAL. 

as wlien in slavery. The sick, infirm, and aged 
persons, shall be attended to where they are 
domiciled, by their nearest relatives. !N"o pa- 
rents, or children of such infirm persons, shall 
remove from an estate, leaving them behind, 
without making provision for them to the owner 
or magistrate. I ask, in the name of humanity, 
how they are to make it? Could any law be 
more oppressive? But would not all our South- 
ern, as well as Northern, advocates of this unjust 
system, willingly do the same thing, and bring 
about a second advent of the horrible and inhu- 
man system of slavery, of which poverty of lan- 
guage is not capable of setting forth to the fall? 
We must be on the spot to realize its cruelty; 
we must mingle and enlist our sympathies in the 
cause of the oppressed, before we can know what 
they suffer. For all this we had a fair opportu- 
nity, eighteen months since, of many long months' 
sojourn on most of the West India Islands. 



CHAPTER YII. 

Frederickstadt — St. Croix — Yice and Immorality. 

The town of Frederickstadt is prettily situated 
on the sea. When the easterly winds prevail 
that blow over the island, the sea, for two or three 
miles out, is calm like a river ; hut when north 
and west winds prevail, it is difficult for vessels 
to ride at anchor near the shore, the sea at times 
being tremendous. The main street is along the 
seaside, and open to it, half a mile long, sparsely 
built on, a few blocks, and then an occasional 
house. The streets running from the sea east are 
mostly built upon. The houses are built with 
stone basements, and wood above, making a two- 
story building; a few are three-stories. They 
are so constructed as to let the air pass con- 
stantly through every apartment; a few have 
glass windows ; some Venetian blinds or shutters. 
There is very little business done here. There 
is an arsenal and fort, post-office, and residence 
of the judge, whose name is Sallow, a Dane by 
birth, and who speaks broken English. We 



104 JOURNAL. 

found him liberal, and disposed to recognize the 
liberty and equality of men. 

The people are mostly poor, and the lower 
class in a wretched condition ; in consequence of 
having no labor to perform, their habits have be- 
come idle and vicious. But the whites are con- 
sidered far more in fault than the liberated slaves, 
as firstly the tendency of slavery is always down- 
ward, and its every feature calculated to produce 
vice and immorality, equally among the whites 
as the people of color, as the term morality is 
scarcely recognized on the islands. What has 
done all this but slavery ? Slavery in its first and 
second advent. 

We spent ten weeks on this Island of St. Croix, 
and should we bring before the view of the reader 
all the misery, wretchedness, and debauchery we 
have seen during our lives, it could bear no com- 
parison to what we saw on the Island of St. Croix 
alone. Although we were told in Havana, where 
slavery exists in its worst form, that we would 
find St. Croix a delightful and quiet retreat for 
invalids, and as I was one w^ho required such a 
spot, my song was on our arrival, "All hail to 
the land of the free !" 

We soon found the tone of our impressions 



FREDERICKSTADT. 105 

and feelings were greatly changed ; that instead 
of its being quiet, it is nothing short of confu- 
sion, both night and day, with quarrels, swearing, 
whipping children without mercy ; husbands and 
wives fighting, the screams almost continually 
being heard of one class or other, as if Bedlam 
had broken loose, and the inmates were having a 
jubilee, — all which is to be attributed entirely to 
the great injustice of the whites, in not being 
willing to pay them for their labor. A great 
part of the islands lie uncultivated because of 
this. As a consequence they run into all kinds 
of excesses. The better class among them especi- 
ally mechanics, do rise, and break through every 
obstruction, considerable numbers of them being 
very well off and respectable. We were often 
kept awake until a late hour of the night by these 
sounds. We concluded if this was considered a 
fine place for invalids (except the delightful at- 
mosphere), they must have stronger nerves than 
ours for such endurance. Until we found this 
course of things was perpetual, we CQuld but 
think every night there must be an uprising, It 
was nothing unusual for us, when we sat dowu 
to our meals, to have a serious alarm before we, 
got half through, either from the street or small 

10 



106 JOURNAL. 

houses near us. Fot unfrequently has myself, or 
dear husband, left our meals to go and see what 
was the matter, to remonstrate against their con- 
duct, and pour oil on the troubled waters. Daily 
we walked the streets of Frederickstadt, endeav- 
oring to exert all our influence for the benefit of 
both whites and colored, holding meetings among 
them whenever we could procure a building, for 
the purpose of giving them counsel on morality 
and industry, and for which they seemed very 
grateful, saying they would work if they were 
paid for it; that twenty cents per day would 
satisfy all their demands, and they could live on 
that; which was confirmed by an agent on one of 
the plantations, as well as by many others. 

The land being exceedingly rich and produc- 
tive, with an ordinary amount of labor, the whole 
island under cultivation, would pour into the laps 
of all classes, millions of the staples. They now 
continually complain of having such small yields 
from their great plantations, or estates as they 
call them. ^' Short crops" is the household lam- 
entation everywhere; but why? was our oft-re- 
peated interrogation. When the invariable an- 
swer was, '' The people are idle ; they will not 
work." We ever had a ready answer, that their 



FREDERICKSTADT. 107 

statement had been proved incorrect, as we found 
tliey all wished to work, but they expected to be 
paid for it, which the owners of estates would 
not do. As a consequence, their land is not half 
tilled on this island, and that portion which is, 
but very poorly. Hence the idleness, poverty, 
and wretchedness of the people, great immorali- 
ties following in their train. 

We not unfrequently, in our ramblings, made 
our calculations, what an enormous income would 
arise from the right kind of culture in charge of 
men who should enlist all their energies in such 
an enterprise, making it a company concern, al- 
lowing each laborer an interest in the laudable 
engagement, as Horace Greeley once did, and 
perhaps now does, with his journeymen printers. 
All then would be equally interested, all anxious 
to see how much they could accomplish, being 
ambitious to rise. Such a philanthropic measure 
would do more towards the elevation of the peo- 
ple of those islands, both white and colored, than 
all the missionaries or clergy that have been 
paid for their services among them for the last 
two hun'dred years. The people demand justice, 
but it is not granted ; and the clergy cg-n only tell 



108 JOURNAL. 

them to submit to their degradation in silence ; 
but this thej will not do. 

We felt it oar duty to labor with the whites, 
rather than the people of color, relative to the 
state of society, as well as the impoverished con- 
dition of that island, and all others we visited; 
which we greatly desired might prove useful to 
them, as the remedy lies almost exclusively with 
the whites, whose avarice and cupidity are too 
conspicuous not to speak for itself. It stands 
out on every hand, seen by each passer-by. The 
change so much desired, if ever effected, we felt 
assured must be commenced and entered into by 
them. 

The weather was very hot at midday, and my 
weak state would not admit of my being out 
much at that time. I arose at an early hour, and 
went over different parts of the town. The col- 
ored people, of the class before described, had 
crawled out from their hiding-places, from old 
dilapidated shanties, cellars, or hovels, of which 
there is a goodly number. The exhibition daily 
presented was appalling. Their clothing was a 
mass of rags, dirty and filthy in every'^^respect ; 
some of the children in a state of nudity, and most 
of them but little better off'. Their practices in the 



DEGRADATION OF THE PEOPLE. 109 

centre of tlie streets too revolting to set forth, 
and which often prevented me from inviting my 
dear husband to walk out with me in the morn- 
ing. As usual, they were always wrangling and 
bringing accusations against each other, while I 
oft used efforts to calm the fury of their tempers, 
and was sometimes successful. I saw at a short 
distance, and heard one morning the impreca- 
tions of a woman to a man in her shanty, who, 
she said, had stolen some of her little earnings. 
She rushed out of her wretched abode to call a 
policeman, the man declaring he was innocent. 
I begged her to wait a little, and make further 
investigation, that she might find her mistake. 
She listened to me, and we heard no more of that 
case ; she may, however, have stated the case to 
the police. We were convinced daily, that if the 
right kind of influence was exerted over this 
downtrodden class, they might yet be brought 
out of their degradation, notwithstanding the 
curse of slavery is upon them as well as the 
whites. Paying them an equivalent for their 
labor, and furnishing them with plenty of it, 
would do much towards a radical change. This 
is a foul blot on all the inhabitants of those 
islands, and some are repenting having done so 

10* 



110 JOURNAL. 

little to promote tlie moral condition of the peo- 
ple. Sordid covetousness, and a determination 
to force the freed people to work for a pittance, 
has induced them to import Coolies, to starve out 
their own native-born citizens. 

We often remarked while on this island, where 
every facility was at hand for producing all the 
staples cultivated there, what wonders might be 
brought about, not only in the state of society, 
but in accumulation of wealth, if the laborers 
were paid as they should be. 

We were informed colored people were often 
decoyed from other islands, to their great chagrin 
and discomfort, paying them no more than they 
do their own people, with which they are greatly 
dissatisfied. This intelligence we had from a 
man on the plantation where a large number had 
recently been brought from Barbadoes. He told 
us all were dissatisfied ; they thought they were 
going to Demarara, where they would receive 
better pay, until they arrived at St. Croix. They 
all meant to return to Barbadoes if possible, say- 
ing they were decoyed and brought on to that 
island. 

The costume of the people of color is perfectly 
grotesque. The dress of the women is a very short 
petticoat, extending a little below the knees, with 



COSTUME. Ill 

a kind of tunic outside, bare ankles, feet without 
shoes, hair arranged in all manner of ways ; those 
pretty, will wear a gown over the petticoat, tucked 
up in some curious style, quite knee high, with 
bare limbs and feet like the first, but with the 
addition of a Madras handkerchief on their heads. 
It being a favorite walk on the sea-shore in front 
of the fort, we oft repaired thither after the rays 
of a burning tropical sun had sunk in the west, 
leaving the atmosphere cool and balmy. Here 
we always found a large number of the class 
above described, in the kind of costume spoken 
of; they seemed delighted to make an exhibi- 
tion before the soldiers, and we thought they 
were well pleased in their turn, as they soon 
struck up their music, with which the colored 
women seemed enchanted, and commenced a 
kind of dance. 

The grounds around the fort are laid out with 
considerable taste, and form a pleasant prome- 
nade for all classes in the cool of the day or even- 
ing. The beauty of this spot is seldom sur- 
passed. An inlet is on one side of the fort, ex- 
tending a considerable distance into the country; 
it might well be called an arm of the sea. It js a 
great place for ablutions, and numbers of women 



112 JOURNAL. 

may be seen at all hours of the day, standing 
knee deep in the water washing clothes, not bat- 
tling them with a stick as when performing the 
same kind of labor on the shore. After they 
presume them sufficiently cleansed, they are 
hung on bushes, of which there is a plentiful 
supply around this charming spot. A kind of 
ornamental tree we never saw except on this and 
other West India islands, is very beautiful; the 
leaves are of a living green at all seasons of the 
year, while immense quantities of pods hang from 
the trees, something like that of the honey locust, 
but ten times larger, and beautiful in color, being 
a rich yellow. There is a great variety of flow- 
ering trees, but some of those of much beauty, 
umbrageous, and charming in form, were proven 
to be so poisonous, that we feared to touch or 
even walk under them. Beauty, even in its ap- 
parently mildest form, is not always to be ap- 
proached in safety. 

The climate is delightful, the temperature rang- 
ing from seventy to eighty-four degrees ; but fre- 
quent showers occur, making calculation for clear 
weather quite uncertain, and preparation for . 
changes always necessary. At this season there is 
but little fruit, and indeed it is much neglected on 



MEETINGS. 113 

the island generally. The East End, or Christian- 
stadt, is much the largest place, and does most of 
the business of the island. The Governor resides 
there, courts are held, and the bank and public 
buildings mostly are there. It is surrounded on 
the south by high hills or mountains, on the west 
by the sea. The surroundings are poor, and the 
attraction for strangers much less than at Fred- 
erickstadt. 

24th. Eirst day ; is observed as a day of rest ; 
some of our boarders went to church. We ob- 
served the people looked tolerably decent to-day, 
which bespeaks well of the day, if only to effect 
a day of clearing up. We held our meeting in 
the two parlors, which were well filled. The 
people did not seem to consider that true wor- 
ship was to be performed in quiet, secret intro- 
version of soul; they kept unsettled for some 
time. At length they were called to stillness, as 
the true preparation for acceptable worship ; then 
was unfolded the nature of the Gospel in all its 
essentials. The audience seemed very attentive. 
The nature of the new birth was clearly ex- 
plained, and what it would do for all who knew 
it, and listened to the voice of God in the soul ; 
it would redeem them from all vice and injus- 



114 JOURNAL. 

tice, and teach, them to do to others as they would 
others should do to them ; it would put an end to 
wars and fighting, and all manner of evil in the 
world ; make good fathers, good mothers, good 
sons, and good daughters, and constitute the 
beginning of that kingdom on earth where dwell- 
eth righteousness, &c. Also, the duty that de- 
volved on the strong, to help to bear the infirm- 
ities of the weak ; exhorting the poor to industry 
and frugality, and to go out on plantations and till 
the soil, rather than live in idleness and rags. 
The meeting closed to satisfaction. 

Desires were expressed for us to hold another 
meeting, but my health being delicate, my dear 
husband could not consent, and it was postponed 
for the present ; a very kind townsman offering 
us his house, when we felt like it. 



CHAPTEE YIII. 

Beauty of the Koads— Coolies— Bassin, or Christian- 
STADT — Visit to the Governor. 

22d. We took a carriage for two hours, for 
which we paid four dollars, and rode to Ham's 
Bluff, a point of land overlooking the sea ; it is 
about four miles from our home. We invited 
the mother of Dr. Shippen, and young Baldwin, 
an invalid, to go with us, making an agreeable 
addition to our company. It was a most charm- 
ing ride, the whole distance on the sea-shore, and 
like all the other roads on the island, of unpar- 
alleled beauty and excellence. Indeed, we had 
never seen such in any country. They are com- 
posed of white gravel and sand, which seems as 
hard as flint, while they are smooth as a house- 
floor; very broad, with a row of cocoanut palm, 
or other ornamental trees, on either side. We 
passed many plantations, or, as they call them, 
estates, each one having a fancy name ; all culti- 
vating sugar-cane upon them. Here we saw 



116 JOURNAL. 

large numbers of laborers on the plantations, en- 
gaged, some in cutting, some in planting, and 
some in digging holes to put out cane. We saw 
many Coolies engaged at work, whose appearance 
was very repulsive, being at their work in a state 
of nudity, with the exception of a piece of cotton 
cloth, put round the body ; while women as well 
as men are engaged in labor on the same spot. 
Their labor appeared to be very hard, especially 
where they were digging holes for planting. 
The hoes are very heavy, and they seem to think 
it needful to raise them above their heads before 
striking them in the ground, which made the 
labor much more oppressive. The cane crop 
this year will be a failure on many estates, owing 
to the great drought on the island, but we think 
for want of proper cultivation as well. 

A short distance from the sea rise, for many 
miles around, a large number of conical hills, 
forming an amphitheatre of surpassing beauty. 
They are planted with cane, which is of a vivid 
green, and are accessible on all sides by terraces 
formed quite around them. They look splendid 
in the extreme. We saw large numbers of wo- 
men and children pulling out the weeds and 
grass among the cane; many of the women 



WOMEN AT LABOR. 117 

bowed with age. The labor on those hills was 
much harder than where we had seen them at 
work below. If we happened to be out near 
nightfall, we saw the aged women coming in 
with heavy loads of grass, weeds, or sticks, on 
their backs, which they told us they had been a 
long distance to gather, and would bring them 
but three or four cents a bundle in the town. 
Many of them had large elephanta feet and 
limbs, swollen very much, resembling an ele- 
phant's. Our hearts were deeply moved at the 
sight. They were wretchedly clad, hungry, 
and destitute of every comfort in life. We, of 
course, did minister to their necessities, and turn- 
ed from them with feelings of deep sorrow, in 
that " Man's inhumanity to man makes countless 
thousands mourn." 

E^ext morning, my dear husband received a 
letter from the judge, requesting an interview. 
He did so, calling on him at twelve o'clock, and 
was informed that the Governor had heard there 
was a lady preaching doctrines on religion, equal 
rights, politics, and morality, that were setting 
the people crazy. He desired to know who she 
was, and what she was preaching, and whether 
in the open air, or in houses ; and requested we 

11 



118 JOURNAL. 

would state, in a letter to him, the necessary re- 
ply, which my hushand did, as follows. We then 
queried whether this request was to place a pro- 
hibition on our holding any other meeting, and 
was answered, "N"o ! we might act as we thought 
best on the subject, — no restriction was imposed." 
We then queried whether we had not best sus- 
pend holding any other meeting until we saw the 
Governor, which we would do early in the next 
week, and was answered, " Use your own pleas- 
ure." Here follows a copy of the letter sent to 
the judge, which he was to send to the Governor. 

Frederickstadt, 1st mo. 28th, 1864. 
Respected Judge : 

It is with pleasure we respond to the request thou hast made. 
The name of my wife is Rachel Wilson Moore. She has held 
two meetings only, with thy approval, hut none in the open 
air, as thou suggested would be proper and convenient. Both 
were held in the parlors at our boarding-house. She is a min- 
ister of the Society of Priends in Philadelphia, State of Penn- 
sylvania; for the evidence of which we have a certificate, 
signed by a number of Friends of Green Street Monthly Meet- 
ing, where we belong. Our preachers do not premeditate what 
they shall say, but speak as they feel impressed by the Holy 
Spirit. The subjects on which they discourse is to direct man- 
kind to the gift of God, within themselves, which teaches 
what is right and what is wrong, agreeably to the Apostolic 
declaration, "A measure, or manifestation of the Spirit, is 



LETTERS FROM HOME. 119 

given to every man to profit witlial. ' ' In tlie illustration of this 
principle of truth, she alluded to the benign laws and happy 
government that exists here, as we supposed, when our feet 
first pressed your soil ; and what course, in her opinion, might 
be adopted, in a social point of view, to benefit every class. 
We expect to visit Christianstadt, on second day (Monday), 
next, or one day early in the week, when we will be gratified 
to call on the Governor, and show him who we are, and of our 
standing at home ; and in the meantime, I take pleasure in 
referring to my friend, Adam McCutchin, who is personally 
acquainted with me. 

Yery respectfully, thy friend, 

J. Wilson Moore. 

Second montli 1st, 1864. We have received 
twelve or thirteen letters from our friends at 
home; the latest date was twelfth month 16th, 
1863. We hailed the package with much joy, 
and although we received the intelligence of 
many dear friends' departure, amongst whom 
were Samuel Myers, William Parrish, Hannah 
Jones, William George, J. Bunting, and Charles 
Shoemaker, yet we also learned of many gratify- 
ing incidents that were taking place, and that 
our own concerns were going on satisfactorily. 

We are situated very comfortahly, with com- 
panions of good, sound principles, and kind as- 
sociates, and spend our time reading, writing, 
walking ahout, and in social conversation. 



120 JOURNAL. 

The day looks fine. We have taken a carriage, 
for seven dollars, and are going to Bassin, or 
Christianstadt, accompanied by Eliza Arestrop. 
It is upwards of two hours' ride. 

We arrived about eleven o'clock, and went to 
Charles and Anne Hallison's, granddaughter of 
Eliza Arestrop, who had invited us previously, 
when we visited the East End, to come to their 
house. We were very kindly entertained, and 
soon joined by her mother, Mary Jane Stackman, 
and husband. Judge John Stackman, who we 
found very agreeable persons. They kindly in- 
vited us to make them a visit. We soon called 
on our friend Adam McCutchin, who introduced 
his daughter Kate, and enjoined her to entertain 
us, should he not be present. We were to call at 
one o'clock, to visit the Governor. He offered 
us, in the way of funds, anything we wanted, at 
the same time told my dear husband he would 
introduce him to the manager of the bank, if he 
desired it. They accordingly went to the bank, 
and made arrangements for an exchange in gold. 

At the time appointed, we called on the Gov- 
ernor. He told us, but gave it little credit from 
the first, what he had heard, which was a very 
incorrect story. After much conversation be- 



VISIT TO THE GOVERNOR. 121 

tween us, on the topics of religion and political 
economy, &c., I asked him whether he wished us 
not to hold any meetings. He replied, by no means 
would he restrain us ; that we were at liberty to 
do as we wished; he only thought it would be 
best not to hold them in the open air, lest an un- 
governable crowd should get together; that he 
thought any advice relative to laborers not get- 
ting sufficient pay for their work might do them 
more harm than good ; that they lived here un- 
der different conditions from what they do in 
the United States, and that the price of labor 
must be regulated by circumstances. Yet he 
would not interfere with our entire freedom. He 
knew no distinction of caste ; all were citizens, 
and to be treated alike. I asked him if he 
thought from seven to fifteen cents a day, for 
labor, could elevate a man in self-respect? To 
which he replied, he did not. I then asked him 
if he did not think measures should be taken to 
bring about a change? To which he assented, 
but believed it would be a very difficult thing to 
accomplish, as the owners of lauds would not be 
willing. I replied then, " Their condition is de- 
plorable," relating many circumstances of the 
great degradation and want; that there was no 

11* 



122 JOURNAL. 

provision for the sick and aged ; that they were 
wandering about the streets begging, without 
any of the comforts of life. To which he re- 
plied, he knew there was a vast amount of wrong 
being done on the island, which ought to be 
righted, but he did not see how it was to be done. 
I told him it was as plain as the rays of the sun 
what was to be done. Let the people be well 
paid for their labor; let them all have literary ad- 
vantages ; try to elevate them, and lift them out 
of their degradation ; which would effect a radi- 
cal change over that island, as well as all the 
rest. But it was plain to see, he feared his popu- 
larity, although he seemed a most kind and gen- 
tlemanly man ; very affable in his manners, and 
entirely accessible. It seemed, indeed, as if we 
had access to his heart, and felt the warmth of 
its genial influence responding to all we advanced 
as being right. We took leave with the kindest 
feelings. 

We then went to Adam McCutchin's, and were 
introduced to another daughter, Jane, older than 
Kate. They had both been educated at Burling- 
ton, ITew Jersey, at Bishop Doane's Institution. 

We then took a ride in Judge Stackman's car- 
riage, which was kindly brought up for our use, 



BASSIN OR CHRISTIANSTADT. 123 

and rode around the town, comparing its situa- 
tion with the West End, and came to the conclu- 
sion that the West End was by far the most de- 
sirable for invalids. The country was richer and 
finer, walks and rides more beautiful, and a 
greater variety; streets wider and more airy. 
Indeed, everything to make a residence desira- 
ble was vastly more attainable at the West End. 

After a collation at Charles Hallison's, we took 
our carriage for the West End, one hour after the 
time ordered, but we had not progressed over a 
mile out of town before a wheel became fastened, 
and we had to return to town and get it fixed, 
which could not be eficcted before the morning. 
It being too far for Eliza and myself to walk to 
the Judge's, and Eliza having a cousin, Francis 
Armstrong, and Augusta, his wife, near by, con- 
cluded to go there, and tell of our dilemma. 
They kindly ofiered us every accommodation we 
desired, and we spent a very agreeable evening, 
and had a refreshing sleep under their hospita- 
ble roof. After a breakfast at eight o'clock, our 
carriage being ready, we again started at nine 
o'clock for home, which we reached at eleven 
o'clock A. M. 

The road is magnificent, is called the King's 



124 JOURNAL. 

highway, and is macadamized, and smooth as a 
floor. This road is fifteen miles in length, or 
rather is a splendid street, with a row of palm or 
cocoanut trees on each side, except occasionally 
a little break. It winds around the mountains, 
and the drive is charming. Sugar-cane planta- 
tions are continually in sight, and gangs of labor- 
ers at work. As we passed along, our thoughts 
were often turned to the multiplied blessings 
showered on this as well as the other islands by 
the great and good Father; but how poor the 
returns ! We were informed by an agent that 
many plantations are thrown out for want of 
laborers, and property is much depreciated since 
emancipation. 

Third month, 1st. — We are to lose our friends 
the Shippens, as they have taken board at Eliza- 
beth Brady's. "We are sorry to part with them; 
they are very agreeable companions. Their 
place is supplied by Dr. Henderson and wife, of 
Springfield, New Jersey. He came on account 
of a bronchial difficulty. 

We took a ride in a carriage we hired for one 
dollar and twenty-five cents. The horse is one 
of those poor little creatures that requires the con- 
stant application of a whip. We rebelled against 



DRIVES. 125 

such an animal, and the owner promised us a 
better one in future. 

Second month, 4th, 1864.— This is the fifth 
of the week, and the day has been passed in 
dressmaking, as the weather is warm, and my 
clothing on hand not at all suitable for this tem- 
perature. The thermometer now stands seventy- 
six degrees, and windy. 

"We saw large fields of sugar-cane in the val- 
leys, and grass and shrubbery covering the moun- 
tain-tops. The ride was beautiful, and scenery 
romantic, fine mansions on every plantation, with 
their small cabins and sugar-house, and other 
buildings for preparing the sugar for market. 
Since the emancipation, in 1848, many laborers 
have left the plantations, and congregated in the 
town, constituting a population of poverty, dis- 
tress, and wretchedness. 



CHAPTER IX. 

Schools — Sugar Grinding — Drives — Visits to Planta- 
tions — Mount Washington — Mount Victory — Har- 
bor OF Trederickstadt — Streets — Markets — Birds — 
Game. 

There are a few schools on the island, that were 
instituted long before emancipation, where chil- 
dren of all classes, without distinction of color, 
may attend school for a limited time. One of the 
teachers told us that few of them could read or 
write so that it could be understood when they 
left the school, which is at an early age. We also 
visited some paying-schools, where -white and 
colored attend. The sum demanded for schooling 
is not large ; if it were, the parents would not be 
able to pay it. IN'either of the requisites, books, 
paper, or anything else, is furnished them. I 
think I counted as many as eight or ten looking 
over one old torn book ; they of course make but 
little advance. On leaving them we felt it right 
to give them means to procure books, and had a 



RELIGIOUS MEETINGS. 127 

very satisfactory opportunity with a large number 
of scholars. 

Marriages take place between whites and na- 
tives, and although there exists a feeling of aris- 
tocracy with some, yet we think caste is fast pass- 
ing away. 

We passed by ISTegro Bay Estate, which former- 
ly belonged to the Titcun family ; also. Beck's 
Grrove, on which Sallie Irving's money is placed, 
of which my dear husband long had the charge, 
being her trustee. 

Second month, 7th. — "We have applied to the 
Moravian minister here to let us use his school- 
house on first day afternoon, to hold a meeting, 
biit he did not seem willing, excusing himself 
by informing us he had not heard from the su- 
perintendent, who had charge of such things. 
We held a meeting in the parlors of Eliza Are- 
strop this evening, when quite a respectable con- 
gregation assembled at seven and a half o'clock. 
The subject of silent worship was brought into 
view, and the meeting ended well. 

Second and thh^d days spent in answering let- 
ters. The wind is high, thermometer at noon 
eighty-one degrees ; only seven degrees between 
the thermometer in the shade and that in the 



128 JOURNAL. 

sun, and even where the sun is very oppressive, 
I have not discovered more than ten to twelve 
degrees difference. 

10th. It blew and rained hard in the night. 
Thermometer seventy degrees ; at noon eighty, 
and in the sun ninety. We find the thermome- 
ter in shade and sun varies at the same time of 
day from ten to twelve degrees ; whilst exceed- 
ingly oppressive in the sun, it will be comfortable 
in the shade, owing to the breezes that prevail 
east and southeast. 

We visited this morning, at ten o'clock, the 
sugar-grinding on the estate called the Two 

Brothers, belonging to . They grind by 

a windmill, with two large upright cylinders, 
about eighteen inches in diameter, and three feet 
high. They throw in an armful of cane at a 
time; it is crushed, and the juice flows into a 
trough, and is conveyed by a conductor into the 
boiling-house into large boilers containing two 
hundred and fifty gallons each, four of which 
when boiled makes about one hogshead of sugar. 
The scum or refuse is put into large vats with 
water, and afterwards finally made into rum. 
The sugar, when boiled, is put into coolers, 
where it granulates : the stalks are taken to a 



SUGAR-BOILING. 129 

shed, and used as fuel to boil the sugar. We 
were of the opinion that the stalks, if put into 
vats and steeped in water, would impregnate 
the water sufficiently to make vinegar, after which 
the cane could be used for fuel. The manager 
told us they never did that. 

Our ride yesterday afternoon, one hour and 
a quarter, was by La Grange and Prosperity, 
through a valley, and along a stream of water to 
Oxford, about G.ye miles and back. All the es- 
tates we passed had the appearance of decay. 

11th. In a conversation that took place with 
R. Gr. Knight, a friend of Henderson's, a planter 
of wealth and influence, we were informed that 
there was a legislative council on that island, and 
they had the power to legislate for themselves, 
and that the members were elected every three 
years, and that all who paid their taxes, and pos- 
sessed a certain amount of property, had the 
right of franchise, without distinction of color; 
that Bassin had five electors, three of whom were 
colored, elected about two weeks since; West 
End had three electors. That a distinction of 
color did exist to a certain extent, particularly 
between the English ; the Danes made no differ- 
ence ; they married and intermarried, and thought 

12 



130 JOURNAL. 

it all right. We were talking with one of the elec- 
tors of the West End, and asked him in his own 
case would he associate with one of his colored 
colleagues in a social capacity? He answered 
that he had not, but did not say he would not. 
He stated that Governor Sharston had tried 
to do away caste, hut had failed in his efforts, 
though they mixed in all business affairs, in 
meetings, &c. 

On the sixteenth, we held a meeting at the 
house of the gentleman (a Creole) who some time 
previous had extended an invitation to us. It 
was well attended and satisfactory. The end of 
man's creation, and his duty to our beneficent 
Creator, and to each other, were brought into 
view, and it ended well, in which all honor and 
praise is due to the Author of all good. 

On the thirteenth, we had taken a lovely ride 
to Mount Washington, then up the mountain to 
an estate called Prosperity, a most sequestered 
spot. The prospect could not be surpassed in 
beauty, only the grounds suffered for want of 
proper cultivation. 

On the seventeenth, we informed E. Arestrop, 
our hostess, that as several of our friends had 
gone to take lodgings with E. Brady, we thought 



DECAY OF ESTATES. 131 

we should like to be with them, which we af- 
terward regretted, as E. Brady's house became 
greatly crowded, and we had plenty of room and 
pretty comfortable fare at E. Arestrop's. Soon 
after this we received letters from our friends. 
]^one can realize the pleasure it affords, save 
those who are far away from friends and kindred, 
in a land of strangers. 

Second month, 19th. — To-day we rode out to 
an estate called Hannah's Rest, where were some 
of my dear husband's friends boarding. All the 
estates are going down, and the once costly man- 
sions decay for want of care as well as cultiva- 
tion, while twenty cents per day for labor would 
make all to blossom as the rose, and yield an 
hundred-fold. We were told ofttimes that no 
freemen, emancipated as they are, were allowed 
to hire or purchase an acre of land to show what 
free labor and industry could do ; and the same 
statement was confirmed by a merchant at St. 
Thomas, saying at the same time the Islanders 
would never consent to that. I queried with him 
to know if that was justice; he did not care to 
answer, and soon took leave, after our giving our 
views on the subject without reserve. 

To-day, three o'clock, some of our friends from 



132 JOURNAL. 

Bassin called on ns, and we enjoyed the inter- 
view much, as well as the visitors. Oh ! how 
watchful we should he, hoth in going out and 
coming in before the people. We require our 
faith and patience oft renewed in the arm of Om- 
nipotence. Oh ! for a closer " walk with God." 

On the twentieth, our hearts more buoyant, for 
which we feel thankful. We rose early this 
morn, to take a walk out, and saw wretchedness 
in all its horrors; many begging us for a penny; 
others for a stiver, saying, "We are starving;" 
some showing us their elephantic feet and limbs, 
swollen to a dreadful extent, not unfrequently 
with sores upon them resembling cancers. It 
must have been a hard heart to turn from such 
objects of pity, without relieving them for the 
time being, at least. This was of every-day oc- 
currence, if we walked out. Another distressing 
feature presented at all times in the streets, and 
not unfrequently at our boarding-places, was 
young colored girls with white infants, or chil- 
dren that could walk and talk. On my asking if 
they were married, the answer was always in 
the negative. " To whom, then, do these children 
belong?" The return was quick as thought, 
" To such a gentleman down town, on a planta- 



NEaRO DEGRADATION. 133 

tion, gone to Denmark, England," or somewhere 
else. Some of them, whose children could talk, 
would say to the poor child of shame, " Tell this 
lady and gentleman your papa's name," which 
prudence forbids our giving. 'Now, this is no 
sham ; but may be seen at all hours of the day. 
On one of those walks we saw a terrible piece of 
deformity, with one little being by the hand, and 
another in her arms. On coming up to her I 
thought how cruel the white woman was that 
gave her such a charge, as it looked as if she 
would have hard work to take care of herself. It 
had been raining, and she was draggled to the 
knees. I inquired whose children they were. 
*' Mine, madam," was the answer. "Art thou mar- 
ried?" I asked. She replied, "]!^o, ma'am; their 
father," so and so. We came to the conclusion, 
after seeing that woman, the lowest could find a 
mate. What are we to think of the state of so- 
ciety where such enormities prevail everywhere? 
It caused our spirits to die within us at what we 
saw and heard. Marriages, we were told, seldom 
occur among any class, w^hile the streets are lined 
with children. This is much the case on all the 
islands, — ^being the direful result of slavery, and 
like our Southern planters, the whites disapprove 

12* 



134 JOURNAL. 

of amalgamation. "We even told them we should 
like to see precept and example agree better than 
it did there. It is a remarkable fact that the chil- 
dren of a white father, as far as our observation 
went, are generally white, or nearly so ; but when 
the mother is white and father colored, the chil- 
dren generally are very dark. I^ow, we gave no 
counsel as to union between the races, viewing it 
as a matter of taste ; if an honorable marriage 
takes place, we felt we had no business with the 
subject; but did feel if girls of color were suited 
for the mates of white men, they were suited for 
their brides as well ; and he must be one of the 
low and degraded of the earth who could act 
otherwise. IN'ow, I know this will be termed in- 
delicate to treat on this subject at such length, 
but how are we to find a remedy, save in out- 
spoken truths? 

We rode out every day to different estates, and 
once called on an overseer, a Dane, who, with his 
wife, gave us much useful information relative to 
what could be done, would the owners pay twen- 
ty cents per day. They do not like the Coolies. 
He told us great difficulty was created by com- 
pelling the laborers to remain such a length of 
time on certain plantations, saying, " They should 



SCHOOLS. 135 

be well paid, and never detained against their 
will." He spoke of the schools as of but little 
account. Children may attend them until ten 
years of age, but gave the same version of their 
acquirements as others had done, that few, when 
they left school, could read or write ; so they are 
growing up in ignorance as well as bad habits. 
He told us people would have more self-respect 
if educated; that most who came there from 
Barbadoes could read and write. 

21st. First day. I attended a Swedenborgian 
meeting. They are a little company, the master 
of which was the kind man who invited us to 
hold a meeting in his commodious parlor, when 
we could obtain a place nowhere else. I felt it a 
duty, and gave them, at the close, some suitable 
counsel, which was kindly received. We have 
ardently desired to attend strictly to the point- 
ings of truth, long having felt a strong desire to 
visit these islands; but was so ill when leaving 
home, I did not expect to attend one meeting, 
only as way has .opened for it in the truth. As 
the people made the appointments, in every in- 
stance, we attended them, to the peace of our 
own minds, and, we trust, the counsel left with all 
classes will not be forgotten, but like "bread cast 



136 JOURNAL. 

on the waters, will be found after many days." 
Our abolition views and feelings were repulsive 
to some; while to others nothing could have 
been more encouragmg. 

Yesterday, twenty-third, spent some time writ- 
ing our friends, and the day following took a 
ride to Mount Victory, but our horse did not 
prove adequate to the trip, and we had to return. 
This island exceeds all others for charming walks 
and drives, leaving out the sad sights seen in all 
directions; of poor old bowed men and women 
returning from work, with heavy loads of grass, 
or little sticks, from some far-off spot in the in- 
terior, where they had been procured by hard 
labor, for which three, or at most, four cents, are 
all they get for them. It is against the law for a 
slave to cut a stick large enough for a cane, or 
to pull a bunch of grass. We often saw them 
gathering sticks and thorns to cook their meals 
with, and we were told they made soup from the 
wild cactus, which is abundant on the islands. 
The natives told us their having been compelled 
to go so much among them with their bare feet, 
had produced elephantiasis in their feet and 
limbs, although my dear husband said there was 
another cause. 



SEA-SHORE. 137 

We have dow been mostly in our chamber for 
several days; the wind having been southeast,, 
quite cool, and a great draught in our room, we 
find it quite uncomfortable. Towards evening we 
•went on the plaza, for a short time, but found it 
too cool, and soon after had cough and pain in 
the side, but after using the restoratives pre- 
scribed by my dear husband, I began to improve, 
and it was not long before I was nearly as well as 
ever, as the weather changed and became mild. 
We often rambled on the sea-shore, and gathered 
shells and other curiosities. We brought a large 
quantity with us to the United States, which, with 
many West India fruits preserved in glass jars, 
have been highly interesting to our friends and 
others who have visited us. 

We have some of our friends here from St. 
Thomas, on whom we called to-day. 

29th. We took a ride along the sea about five 
miles. The road is much a.s if prepared for cars 
to run on, — so smooth and level ; trees of various 
kinds, very beautiful. What a sad reflection, 
that where our good Father has scattered His 
blessings with so liberal a hand, that all should 
have been prostituted to the curse of slavery! 
On our way back we passed many graves, near 



138 JOURNAL. 

the bank, along the sea-shore. We could scarcely 
conjecture why the inhabitants chose that spot, 
but were told the graves were made there before 
they began to have grounds appropriated for that 
purpose only. Some of them had an air of gran-' 
deur, with splendid ornamental trees waving over 
them. Some said families find rest there, but it 
seemed to us of little importance any way. We 
visited an estate at La Grange, on our return from 
Ham's Bluff, where sugar-making was going on ; 
but it has been described, and needs no further 
comment. The syrup is called "sling," and is 
used in the place of butter. 

The day is fine; thermometer from seventy- 
five to eighty. We now begin to long for the 
comforts of home. I^ear this time a fellow-com- 
panion arrived from 'New York, who appeared in 
the last stage of consumption, son of J. Shotwell. 
He remained with us while we stayed on the 
island, and after we ieffc took passage for New 
York, in company with Dr. Henderson and wife, 
from New Jersey, but died on the passage home. 
His remains were, however, not committed to 
the watery elements, as is generally the case, but 
carried into his native city, where his friends 
could have the sad satisfaction of seeing the life- 



MOUNT VICTORY. 139 

less remains deposited in the home of his child- 
hood, before laying it away in one of the silent 
halls of death. He was an interesting young 
man, and gained the love and good- will of all 
who knew him. Such is human life; "in the 
morning the flower flourisheth, and groweth up ; 
in the evening it is cut down and withereth." 

We have held two meetings at the house of 
Elizabeth Brady, our hostess, a very kind woman. 

Third month, 8th. We took another ride to 
Mount Victory, and were highly delighted with 
the beautiful scenery. The cone-like hills rising 
in the distance, covered with rich foliage, gave 
them a splendid appearance. The horses here 
are small and poorly kept, but sometimes they 
become quite unmanageable, as we proved more 
than once, — coming near losing our lives, as we 
were riding out, on two occasions; we were only 
saved after the horse had run for a considerable 
distance, and seemed bent on diving into the sea. 
By means few would have thought of, my dear 
husband succeeded in changing his course, and 
ran him into a stack of sugar-cane stalks, which 
some laborers and the proprietor seeing, ran to 
our assistance and saved our lives. We after- 



140 JOURNAL. 

ward had another narrow escape, but not so 
alarming as the first. 

As we rode along, we passed fields of sugar- 
cane, reaching, in many places, the very summit 
of the hills, six to seven hundred feet above the 
ocean. Along this enchanting road we travel on. 
Leaving Sprat's Hall on the left, we ascend a 
long winding hill to Mount Victory. The estate 
is owned by William Moore, and is the country 
residence of his family in the summer. The 
mansion is placed in a valley, surrounded by 
high hills, on which you look from every quarter, 
covered with sugar-cane, or planted in grass. 
Leaving this estate, we passed Kose Hill, on 
which a windmill is situated, on a little peak of 
a mountain ; and passing b}^, we soon came on 
the Annaly Estate, which is large, and sold not 
long since for forty thousand dollars. Here we 
turn short to the right, and pass around a cooper- 
shop, and take the Mahogany Eoad, by another 
estate of William Moore, called Oxford, and 
managed by McGrivan, who treated us kindly. 
He said Moore owned twelve estates on the 
island, and makes about three thousand hogs- 
heads of sugar annually from the estates. We 
here have a fine view of the sea and lagoon, with 



• TREES. 141 

numerous spurs of hills interlocking eacli other, 
rising one abov^e the other, presenting a variety of 
separate mounds, beautifully cultivated with cane, 
or fields of grass, on which cattle and sheep and 
mules graze in great numbers. The road is ser- 
pentine, and descends for miles on a gentle slope, 
and shaded with filbert trees, sapodillas, and 
tamarinds, and several other trees of the forest. 
I^ear this spot, a man of color procured a cocoa- 
nut flower, very beautiful, which I preserved, and 
now have in my home; also the bread fruits, and 
many others. After leaving this beautiful land- 
scape, we pass along Jolly Hill and La Grange, 
owned by Colonel Logans, and coming in by the 
seaside, we took the left to Frederickstadt, one 
mile. 

Third month, 14th. — ^l^othing has occurred of 
sufficient importance to note since last date. I 
now resume my journal by stating that we have, 
within the last week, sent ofl" many letters by 
G. W. Smith and J. Milligan, who expect to be, 
by first of fourth month, in l^ew York. 

Frederickstadt is situated on the east margin 
of the sea; its harbor is protected by Ham's 
Bluff on the north, and a point of land projecting 
into the sea on the south, on which is a lagoon of 

13 



142 JOURNAL. 

two miles in extent, without any apparent inlet 
or outlet into the sea ; the water is soft and looks 
muddy, forming a white foam, like soapsuds, as 
it flows toward the shore. This neck of land is 
overgrown with all kinds of shrubbery. The 
bay is as placid as a river, except when west- 
wardly winds prevail ; it then becomes rough and 
insecure. There are three schooners that trade 
regularly between this place and St. Thomas ; 
they are the West End Packet, Captain James ; 
the Maggie, Captain Watlington ; and Starlight, 
Captain Golder; of which there is little choice, 
— our party preferring one, another party the 
other, and so on. 

The buildings are constructed with stone base- 
ments, and frame dwellings above, having large 
windows, chiefly without sashes or glass. Some 
have Yenitian blinds, others close shutters, to keep 
out the storms. The houses are mostly white- 
washed. The streets run at right angles. We oc- 
cupy a house fronting a flower garden above Bay 
Street. The market is near, but very poor, either 
for meats, vegetables, or fruits. The poorest 
meats we ever saw are offered in these markets. 
Poultry does not appear to have been fattened at 
all. Vegetables and fruits scarce, and of the 



DECAY OF ESTATES. 143 

most inferior quality, orange groves having been 
cut down, as we were told, to prevent the laborers 
from selling them. As an evidence, one of our 
boarders, being anjnvalid, passing some orange 
trees on a plantation, inquired of a colored man 
near if he could have half a dozen of those 
oranges. After receiving them he gave the man 
fifty cents ; the owner heard of it and took the 
amount off the man's wages, nearly covering the 
labor of a week. 

This state of things, and want of supplies, is 
attributed to emancipation. We told them it 
was deeper than that, — the system of slavery be- 
fore emancipation, and now in its second advent. 

The old inhabitants had lived extravagantly, 
and involved themselves in debt, from which 
they were unable to extricate themselves. Many 
of them dying, their estates were sold, and be- 
came the property of foreign creditors, and were 
given over to attorneys and managers. It being 
no longer desirable to keep up those costly man- 
sions, all that could be gleaned was sent away to 
remunerate the proprietors ; the consequence is, 
the estates are going down, owners are weary of 
them, throw them into market, and they are 
purchased by the attorneys and managers, many 
of them Irish, who cannot afford to make the 



144 JOURNAL. 

necessary outlay to restore them to their former 
beauty. We believe the time will come when 
every man, irrespective of color, will occupy his 
own estate, and sit under his vine and -&g tree, 
where none can make him afraid. 

Birds are very scarce on this island ; no deer, 
squirrels, rabbits, or game of any description, ex- 
cept a few quails. We are more convinced every 
day that it will require a great length of time to 
bring this people out of their degradation. 

Third month, 28th, second day morning. — The 
weather is boisterous and stormy, and the wind 
blows tremendously; wind east-southeast. This 
is a holiday. A party came from St. Thomas to 
enjoy a festival, or picnic. The rain must have 
interfered considerably with their hilarity, not- 
withstanding it was to take place on Prospect 
Estate. We visited Edward Hart and wife, from 
!N"ew York, last night, who have taken board 
with the Widow Foster. It seemed quite home- 
like to mingle with people from my native State. 
We met with a gentleman there who had ex- 
plored the cave on the estate of Elizabeth Brady. 
It was found to contain several different apart- 
ments, and the ceilings were covered with forma- 
tions of coral of a very curious variety. We 
brought home some specimens with us. 



CHAPTER X. 

Departure — St. Thomas — Trip to Barbadoes. 

Thikd month, 30th, 1864. — ^Feeling as if our 
time was nigh at hand for leaving the island, the 
object for which we were induced to come being, 
as far as appearances indicate, pretty well estab- 
lished, we left this beautiful island in the morn- 
ing, about eleven o'clock, without much regret, 
in the schooner Maggie, under the command of 
Captain Watlington, for St. Thomas. We were 
seven hours and forty minutes performing the 
trip. 

I felt gratified at the prospect of paying visits 
to other islands, but on leaving this could use 
the words of Cowper : " With all thy faults I 
love thee still." So charmingly beautiful, the 
day so calm, so lovely, and so bright, seemed 
like "the bridal of the earth and sky." We re- 
mained on the deck of our little vessel until I 



146 JOURNAL. 

became seasick, but recovered towards evening 
to see the silver orbed moon and brilliant stars 
walk forth in their beauty. I had watched the 
broad hills we had left, until nothing but the 
gray outlines remained, overhung with fleecy 
clouds, tinged with purple and gold ; and now, 
in the shadows of evening, we disembarked from 
our little boat, and were again on soil our feet 
had pressed before. All seemed glad to see us 
with whom we had formed acquaintance. On 
repairing to our hotel found it full, and we 
sought a resting-place at one nigh at hand, for a 
short time, waiting for the arrival of an English 
steamer to take us to Barbadoes. We had left 
most of our baggage in care of the housekeeper 
of our hotel before we left this island. We now 
gathered all together, not expecting to make 
another stop there. We added some more fine 
specimens of coral to our already accumulated 
stock, and put all in order, ready for our trip to 
Barbadoes. I must not omit saying that we were 
pleased with our accommodations at the latter 
hotel, kept by an Englishman named Bonelli, the 
fare good and house well kept. 

I omitted stating the day before our departure 
the Episcopal minister made a formal call on us. 



SUGGESTIONS. 147 

He appeared a kind, affable, and agreeable man. 
We had much conversation together on various 
subjects, all calculated, we hope, to make a good 
impression. Before we parted I told him there 
was one thing I wished to enjoin upon him, and 
as he was a professed minister of the Gospel, I 
thought he must feel the force of the proposition, 
which was the great importance of holding lec- 
tures every evening during the week for the ad- 
vancement of moral culture. We had travelled 
much in the United States, Europe, and many 
other places, but in all our lives before, condens- 
ing the whole of the immoralities we had ever 
seen, they would poorly compare with the Danish 
Islands, especially St. Croix, adding, " Would it 
not be a feasible measure, as well as greatly to 
the improvement of all classes, to assemble with 
the better class of people on the island, and 
make this proposition, setting forth how the 
immoralities looked to the people visiting their 
island." His answer was, " Madam, if you will 
find out the better class, and let me know, I will 
try to do it ; I should not know where to find 
them. I have been here so long," naming the 
time, " but I do not think I shall remain much 
longer." I believe I rightly remember his words, 



148 JOURNAL. 

whicTi, I think, was responded to by one of the 
Islanders, l^otwithstanding, there had been one 
hundred members confirmed by a bishop from 
Barbadoes, some two weeks previous, in the same 
church in which he presided. 

The English steamer expected to-night, fourth 
month, 2d. The steamer Shannon arrived last 
night, and fired her salute-gun at six o'clock. 

Fourth month, 3d. This morning my dear hus- 
band went on board the Thames to take our 
state-rooms for Barbadoes. The steward told 
him he could not give us a state-room until the 
passengers of the Shannon were accommodated, 
on account of its being another English steamer. 

At nine o'clock next morning, the Thames fired 
her signal-gun, and the passengers understood 
that in one hour she would sail. We went on 
board at once, and took a state-room outside, and 
near the ladies' drawing-room ; it was small, but 
cool, and we got on very well. About ten o'clock 
A.M., we weighed anchor and left the port of St. 
Thomas for Barbadoes. The day was fine ; sea 
calm; wind ahead, making the atmosphere de- 
lightful and cool. Passed St. John's, and the 
Sugar-loaf Rock, that stands elevated and alone 
in the sea, St. John's, Tortola, and St. Croix, 



CARIBEE ISLANDS. 149 

not far distant, whose beautiful mountain-peaks 
kept in sight until about four o'clock, when the 
mist that hung over them closed them from our 
view. 

These Caribee Islands are of great beauty, 
and are covered with verdure ; all accounts well 
correspond as to their productiveness and fertil- 
ity. It is wonderful to see so many of them, in 
the midst of the sea, but fit habitations for man. 
What blessings are scattered around us every- 
where ! as every clime has its multiplied advan- 
tages. These islands may well be called "gems 
of the ocean," — so fraught with beauty and love- 
liness. We remained on deck as long as our eyes 
felt like watching the surging waves of the broad 
ocean. The stars looked down upon us in silent 
grandeur, telling mysterious tales of spheres equal 
as well as far more wonderful and magnificent 
than our own; proclaiming with silent though 
imposing eloquence the same Almighty Power 
that made us what we are; made mankind as well, 
each to perform a special mission, while harmony 
was the crown of all; the latter with capacities of 
mind for penetrating into the vast expanse of the 
solar system. Through science, worlds and sys- 
tems of worlds have, of latter time, been brought 



150 JOURNAL. 

into view, unknown to man, save by the wonder- 
ful power of genius furnished by their Great 
Original. The astronomer points his telescope 
to the heavens, and penetrates the fields of blue 
ether, revealing to man the wonders of other 
worlds : though " no larger in appearance than 
the diamond that glitters on a lady's ring, it is 
really a mighty globe." We indulged in these 
reflections until the time for rest called us to 
our state-room, where all looked very comforta- 
ble for shipboard. We committed ourselves to 
" tired nature's sweet restorer, balmy sleep," after 
looking over in what manner we had spent the 
day just gone from us; ever bearing in mind the 
importance of doing the work of each day, as it 
passes, that " no follies we may have to lament," 
or that " we have lost a day." 

We arose next morning before day, in order to 
see the sun rise. It is a sublime sight to see the 
sun rise, or set, at sea, appearing as if it rose out 
of, or set in, the ocean's broad bosom. The sur- 
rounding scenery is beautiful. 

A nice warm breakfast, and then to our writ- 
ing quietly on deck, where we saw much that 
was interesting. 

Our passengers were about thirty in number, 



ST. kitt's. 151 

chiefly Islanders and English, and were mostly 
Southern sympathizers. "We got along very well, 
and enjoyed the trip much; our gentlemanly 
captain, a most affable and agreeable person, 
adding to our comfort, whose kindness we never 
can forget. 

The morning of the sixth brought us opposite 
the harbor of St. Kitt's, or St. Christopher's, so 
called by some. The country looked mountain- 
ous, with beautiful lowland skirting the margin 
of the sea. It was cultivated with sugar-cane ; 
and deep green foliage was seen from the gorges. 
Small cottages were numerously placed on vari- 
ous estates, for the accommodation of laborers, 
but we saw no splendid establishments for the 
aristocracy. 

We anchored about six and a half o'clock, oppo- 
site the town of Basitar, where a number of pas- 
sengers were added to our list, amongst whom 
was the Archbishop Gibbs, of the Episcopal 
Church, going to visit some of his parishes. He 
looked like a genteel English Eriend, dressing 
in a plain frock coat, large hat, white cravat, 
&c. Here we procured some grapes, that were 
brought on board by colored men. They were 
not quite ripe, but answered better than nothing. 



152 JOURNAL. 

The Bishop informed us that St. Kitt's was one of 
the most fertile and productive of the British 
Islands; that their treasury was full; and that 
their laborers were paid from ten cents to one 
shilling a day. The fields looked green and 
beautiful, and the hilltops were clothed with ver- 
dure to their summits. The town is small, and 
wore the appearance of age and neglect; the 
architecture much the same as at St. Croix. 

We passed the Island of !N'evis, which is sepa- 
rated by a strait of about one mile wide. It 
resembles St. Kitt's in appearance; mountain 
rising above mountain ; one overtopping all the 
rest, hiding the peak from our view. Passing 
these beautiful works of the Great Creator, our 
admiration was not merely confined thereto, but 
often had we to look from !N"ature's works to ^CsTa- 
ture's God. We passed another solitary rock in 
the sea, projecting sixty or one hundred feet 
above the water. !N"ot far distant was the Island 
of Monserrat, which we passed without stopping. 
It presented to our view a conglomeration of 
rocks, rising into mountains, with occasional 
peaks, covered with shrubbery. We saw very 
little cultivation, but were told aTTew estates were 
cultivated on it. It is here Joseph Sturge had 



ANTIGUA. 153 

estates, a celebrated English philanthropist. "We 
were told one of his heirs had lately been on a 
visit to them. Off this island we saw a shoal of 
whales, and were informed that several vessels 
had been employed in the trade from one of the 
islands. 

About three o'clock, we anchored in the har- 
bor of Antigua, called English Harbor. It is a 
small harbor, but well protected from storms. 
There is no town here ; merely a landing-place, 
and machine shops, and barracks for soldiers. 
As we passed along the coast we saw very little 
culture; a ridge of hills extending along the 
island, some distance from the coast, behind 
which, we were informed, some few estates lie. 
We passed Guadaloupe about twelve o'clock at 
night, without having any opportunity of see- 
ing what it was like. Here we left the mail at 
Point-a-Pitre. 

Moonlight over these islands adds greatly to 
the interest as we pass onward. Sitting on the 
deck of our noble steamer, with shadows resting 
on both land and sea, the sight was often too 
grand to tempt us to go below, so that we sat in 
the moonlight until a late hour at night ; some- 
times in contemplation, or prayerfully desiring 

14 



154 JOURNAL. 

that we might be led about and instructed 
by Him who knows what is best for us; who 
will direct all our steps, as we look to Him as our 
polar star. The seed of Divine life has been 
planted in the Eden of every soul. " We have 
all been without sin there, until iniquity has been 
found in us." It is taking the government in 
our own hands, that has driven so many out of 
Eden! For although the seed sown may not 
vegetate early and bear fruit, if it is not trodden 
down and crushed, the sunlight of truth will 
ripen it into a full development of its power, — 
evincing that it is " world-wide, as well as world- 
old, in its growth," and even beyond; as "before 
the mountains were brought forth, or the hills 
were formed," this same principle, or heavenly 
seed, was with the divine Eternal One, as cer- 
tainly as the day and time in which we live. My 
contemplations often wandered off in this direc- 
tion, as I mused in the moonlight, on the "beau- 
tiful sea," beside the object of my happiest 
earthly hopes ; but, alas, now no more beside me, 
but encircled in the icy arms of death. Severe 
has been the blow? although directed in wisdom ; 
but well do I know Tbou only, oh Lord, canst 
healing bring ! Thou only can calm the troubled 



DOMINICA. 165 

spirit ! and cause my poor soul to cling closer to 
Thee, in entire resignation and holy confidence, 
^^ that Thou doest all things well," 

At five and a half o'clock came to the Island of 
Dominica, another French island, which, like its 
fellow, presents a ridge of hills with barren tops. 
A plantation without improvements was accident- 
ally seen along the coast. We left the mail at the 
town at Prince Rupert, which lies under high 
hills of irregular formation. There a number of 
boatmen came alongside with fruit, as oranges, 
bananas, shaddocks; also, potatoes and eggs. 
Their violent gesticulations and unknown gib- 
berish, made a scene of confusion, and French- 
manlike, it seemed as if every minute it would 
terminate in a violent battle ; but fortunately it 
passed off without any harm being done. The day 
continued fine, sea delightful, and temperature 
very agreeable, and we pursued our voyage with 
renewed feelings of hope that all things would 
go on favorably. 

About ten o'clock a. m. we came to the town of 
St. Pierre, in Martinico, where we left the mail. 
The town looks old and dilapidated for want of 
paint. There are no fine houses seen from ship- 
board, but shade trees are in great abundance. 



156 JOURNAL. 

This is a Frencli island, and presents a better ap- 
pearance than anj we have passed. It is also 
mountainous, with deep gorges between them, 
interlocking each other, and forming a channel 
for the water that trickles down the mountains. 
Beneath these a strip of lowland is spread out, on 
which numerous small cottages for laborers are 
placed, and fields of cane are cultivated in small 
patches, presenting a picturesque scene, that is 
highly pleasing to the sight. The mountains 
back rise in magnificent grandeur, and are cov- 
ered with shrubbery and stately trees of the 
forest. We are told Port Eoyal stands on the 
east side of the island, and is the seat of govern- 
ment and chief place of trade. The land slopes 
off" to the south, with undulating hills, without 
much appearance of improvement. Small cot- 
tages are seen in various directions, but it would 
seem as if this part of the island had not attracted 
much attention. 

As we leave Martinico on the south, with a 
rock elevated fifty feet above the sea, we see as in 
a mist the Island of St. Lucia, and steering south- 
east, in a few hours had a view of its mountains 
and valleys. There is nothing in the prospect 
that strikes us as possessing anything different 



ST. LUCIA. 157 

from the other islands, except its barren condi- 
tion. We see but little culture, and no estates 
furnished with mansions and cottages; neither 
windmills or other factory for preparing sugar. 
The mountains are covered with shrubbery. We 
entered the harbor, on which stands Castries, the 
seaport. It is a small place and has but little 
interest. A fortress is on the top of one of the 
hills to the south, A few houses are scattered 
about the hills, — these are the residences of the 
grandees of the place. 

Leaving our mail, we took a backward direc- 
tion, and rounded the northwest end of the island, 
and directed our course on the east side to Bar- 
badoes, IlTight closed upon us soon after leaving 
the harbor. This is an English possession, and 
of little value, having very little exports or cul- 
tivation. The day has been pleasant, although 
the thermometer is from eighty to eighty-six de- 
grees. There was a fair wind, which rendered 
the atmosphere highly delightful. 

Kight closing upon us, and taking a retrospec- 
tive glance of life, felt nothing but poverty of 
spirit. A prayerful desire to be furnished with a 
measure of Divine love was the silent interces- 
sion of the soul. 

14* 



CHAPTER XL 

Barbadoes — St. Vincent — Landing at Demerara — 
Drives — Departure. 

The night was passed in sweet sleep, and on 
waking found ourselves near the south end of 
Barbadoes. As we approached we discovered a 
ridge of hills running the length of the island, 
and forming the backbone, with here and there 
a copse of cocoanut trees, crowning the topmost 
peaks. The land from the sea rises in a succes- 
sion of small hills, thickly dotted with small 
cottages, and cultivated with sugar-cane, which 
the planters were engaged in grinding, chiefly by 
windmills. There is very little woodland seen; 
every spot capable of cultivation is put into sugar- 
cane. 

We reached the harbor of Bridgetown about 
eight and a half o'clock. The town stands on 
the bay, and extends for a mile along the margin 
of the sea. The houses look poor, but as we 
pass onward present a more inviting appearance. 



REFLECTIONS. 159 

It contains twenty-six thousand inhabitants, and 
is the capital of the island. 

Here we parted with most of the passengers, 
and much of the cargo, and remained until twelve 
o'clock, when we weighed anchor and proceeded 
on our voyage to Demerara, with about twenty 
passengers, most of whom resided there. The 
day was fine, sky clear, thermometer eighty-six 
degrees, with southeast wind, which prevented 
our feeling the excess of the heat. About four 
o'clock we lost sight of land for the first time 
since leaving St. Thomas. 

Let us pause to reflect on the majesty of the 
Almighty power who has created this scene, and 
given genius to man, to enable him to construct 
the vast machinery to plough the ocean, and nav- 
igate the bark to distant climes, bringing the in- 
habitants into unity and social intercourse one 
with another, extending arts, science, and civili- 
zation over the habitable world. May we, the 
workmanship of His hands, properly appreciate 
these blessings, and render all thankfulness to 
the great Author. " Thus doth our spirit mag- 
nify Thy adorable name, and crave light and 
knowledge to perform the end of our creation." 
Night closed upon us soon after six o'clock, and 



160 JOURNAL. 

the sea becoming rather rough, we retired to our 
state-room to think over the occurrences of the 
day, and examine our hearts, whether in the 
sight of Him, who created us for His glory, we 
have spent the time agreeably to His divine will ; 
then committing our spirits to Him who gave 
them, we quietly sank to sleep. 

We awoke as we entered the harbor of St. 
Vincent, about five o'clock. The sea was a little 
rough, wind southeast, thermometer eighty ; felt 
summer clothing very agreeable. 

Fourth month, 6th. — Another day has passed ; 
our sail has been smooth and agreeable, nothing 
occurring to break in upon the tranquillity of the 
scene. We changed our state-room for one larger, 
but much more exposed ; it being in the middle 
of the deck, we felt the jar of the engine ; still 
the change was for the better. The morning 
was fine, the thermometer was eighty degrees, 
wind southeast ; there are a few flying clouds, 
but no land to be seen. 

One of our passengers, a kind and humane 
man, gave us a very interesting account of his 
experience with the freedmen. Some nine years 
since he went out into the interior and procured 
a large tract of land, requiring great labor and 



THE FREEDMEN. 161 

toil to bring under a state of cultivation; suc- 
ceeding in hiring for a fair price, if I mistake not, 
three hundred colored men with their families. 
Few if any of the number had been legally mar- 
ried. He told them this must be the first step to 
their elevation; this was done, and the rites of 
marriage were from that time looked on as sa- 
cred. He set all to work, either on the planta- 
tions, or in the erection of tenements for their 
abodes, which, rude and humble as they were, 
were their homes, and no doubt for the first time 
caused them to feel their manhood. They had 
the assurance that their lives had fallen in pleas- 
ant places, with a good man, who took them by the 
hand to help them out of their degradation. He 
was a Moses unto them, delivering them from the 
bondage of corruption, and the cupidity of ungodly 
men, and they confided in him as a father. His 
name is Barlow. We seemed drawn to him, in 
nearness of spirit, at our first introduction, with 
strong desire to accept his kind invitation to pay 
him a visit, and " see for yourselves," quoting his 
words, " how the free labor system works." As his 
home was sixty miles in the interior, we thought 
it not practicable. Since our return we regretted 
much we could not pay the visit. This true phi- 



162 JOURNAL. 

lanthropist and Cbristian told us all went wil- 
lingly to work — little or no remonstrance had 
been required ; the proceeds of their labor paid 
well. He was their minister, and had built a 
chapel on the estate. The same in regard to 
schools; he had been the principal for many 
years ; he placed a high value on their literary 
improvement ; in short, it was evident to us that 
he was the man to lay the foundation for a reform 
in all slave countries, which, when others see, 
they may feel disposed to go and do likewise. 
Much may be done in this way toward advancing 
the great millennium day, " when the kingdoms 
of this world shall become the kingdom of our 
Lord and of his Christ;" this being His power 
working in the hearts of his children in bringing 
forth good fruits. All effort then to do His will 
in our duty to our brother, white or black, is so 
far advancing Christ's peaceable kingdom of 
righteousness, peace, and joy in the Holy Spirit! 
This knowledge of what one man is doing, raised 
the inquiry in our minds. If so much is being 
done by one towards the elevation of the down- 
trodden, should a community engage alike in 
this cause, might not every abuse of power be 
restrained, while all would alike stand upright ? 



THE FREEDMEN. 163 

This Christian man told ns, '' He had not felt at 
liberty to unite himself with any professing body 
for twenty-six years, all appearing to him more 
or less sectarian. He said he believed in but one 
church, and that the church of Christ ; that its 
members were scattered the world over; that 
Christianity is to be applied to daily life, having 
nothing to do with sects or creeds ;" saying, " I 
can subscribe to many of the tenets held by all, 
but to none of their dogmas or prejudices." His 
life seemed devoted to the improvement and ele- 
vation of the emancipated, both mentally and 
physically. From what we could judge, nothing 
he can do for that people is left undone. On his 
domain all are well paid. Each man can earn 
from twelve to fifteen dollars per month, the labor 
being performed by tasks, which requires seven 
hours, A man may, if disposed, complete two of 
these per day, worth one dollar. All cannot per- 
form the same amount of labor. "Women work 
in the fields : they earn almost as much as the 
men, but they are mostly employed as house- 
keepers and waiters. Large numbers of the la- 
borers have houses and lots of their own, while 
emigrants and others less thriving, have houses 
found them, with as much land as they can culti- 



164 JOURNAL. 

vate. Their medical attendance is gratis, as well 
as the privilege of schools. All emigrants are 
well paid by the employers ; some of them have 
been with them a long time. 

Mne o'clock. Sea-water light green, then it 
became muddy; at ten o'clock we descried a 
steamer to the south, also a brig. Saw with a 
glass the flag-ship. The tide being low, we 
steered on for an hour below the mouth of the 
River Demerara. We crossed the bar about three 
o'clock, and came to anchor opposite Greorge- 
town, about four o'clock. 

Little did we think, on leaving home, we should 
have extended our wanderings so far, and being 
about to land, with prayerful hearts, and in good 
health, looked forward to leaving thesteamer. It 
was amusing to hear the crowing of fowls, cack- 
ling of chickens, and quacking of ducks from 
our deck, a goodly number always being carried, 
as if they really knew we had reached our desti- 
nation, and they joined in hilarity with those on 
board. It seemed as if those in charge of clear- 
ing up and putting all to rights, moved every- 
thing capable of transit, while water was thrown 
in every direction, scrubbing, dashing over every 
part above us, so that it was not safe to venture 



DEMERARA. 165 

on deck, unless one required a general ablution. 
We had first-rate fare on this trip, and our gen- 
tlemanly captain, and his amiable and engaging 
manners, will long live in our remembrance. 
His name is Hole, of the steamer Thames. We 
hope we have not seen this worthy man for the 
last time. We had no sea-sickness since leaving 
Barbadoes, for which we felt very thankful. 

The pilot informed us that the business part of 
the city, called Water Street, had recently been 
destroyed by fire. On first day, the third, it com- 
menced, whilst church was in session, and was 
not entirely extinguished until next day. The 
destruction was very great, estimated at three 
millions of dollars. 

We landed about four o'clock, after much dif- 
ficulty, which arose from the turbulence and bad 
#temper of the boatmen, who are more violent on 
these islands, as they come out with their boats, 
than any other class of people with whom we 
have met. Each seemed determined to get all the 
passengers in his boat. Their conduct amounted 
to desperation. We were afraid to go with them, 
and told them we would not, unless they would 
be quiet. The captain forbade them coming on 
deck, when one of those in whose boat we thought 

15 



166 JOURNAL. 

we should go, jumped on to the stairs, as if to 
come up; that moment the fourth officer had 
taken me by the arm to assist me down the stairs, 
while my dear husband was just behind us, with 
some of our baggage. The officer gave the man 
on the stairs a shove, which we feared would 
make trouble, throwing him back into his boat. 
He got up instantly, and with his fist or some in- 
strument, knocked the officer down with great 
force; at the same time my dear husband was 
thrown with violence against the boat, producing 
considerable injury to his face. I fully believe he 
would have been overboard, and might have been 
drowned, had I not sprung and caught him as he 
was going into the water. 

He soon recovered, however, and we were 
seated together in safety, and we left the pell- 
mell host behind, after several of this class ofit 
boatmen had received a few showers of water 
on their heads, from the ship. 

Took a carriage for Hamilton Hotel, which 
was full to overflowing, as was every other public 
house in the city, in consequence of the late fire, 
which was still burning. 

We should have had no accommodations here, 
had we taken no for an answer. My dear bus- 



ACCOMMODATIONS. 167 

band proposed we should look further. I told 
him I would see what I could do. I went to the 
landlady and asked her if we could rest in an 
upper hall, on the sofa, until dinner; she said we 
might. In an hour she came up, when I began 
to feel myself quite at home. I told her I wanted 
to go up stairs with her; she said, well, and we 
went into every room that would admit us ; but 
all were to be filled that night. At last I spied a 
little door some distance off, to which 1 stepped, 
and said, "Is this occupied?" She answered, "I 
don't think it will be to-night; but it is for only 
one person." "Oh!" said I, "it is sufficient for 
us." When I told my dear husband he laughed 
heartily at my perseverance, as well as contriv- 
ance. 

The people in this warm climate are not so 
fastidious as in our country; they are glad to 
get accommodations in almost any way. For 
ourselves we thought it a great favor to get a 
single bed in a room almost without furniture, 
while I eked it out with chairs ; although we paid 
the same as if it had been a fine large room. 

I procured some beautiful specimens of quartz, 
and other curiosities, several curious nests of 
South American wasps, which now are highly 



168 JOURNAL. 

valued, and grace one of my cabinets. They are 
of singular construction, showing that the great 
power of genius is not confined to the human 
mind. The intelligence of many animals is won- 
derful, and none more so in the construction of 
dwellings than the bee family. One of these 
dwellings is two stories high, constructed of 
bark, so closely inlaid as to form walls twice the 
thickness of heavy pasteboard, and curiously 
wrought, with cells in the upper and lower 
stories, showing much artistic skill, being beauti- 
fully mottled, and smooth as glass. A door of 
entrance is above the first, so as to escape to the 
second in case of invasion from below ; or, as one 
observed, who was examining it, perhaps it was 
appropriated to all the children in the stately 
mansion. 

The birds here are of surpassing beauty, but 
as our curiosities had already accumulated to a 
great amount for travellers, we had to forego the 
pleasure of procuring a collection of birds and 
shining insects. We procured one charming 
bird, called the cock of the rock, being gold 
color, with a splendid comb. It is, I think, about 
the size of a goldfinch. 

Our kind host invited us to take a ride through 



PLANTS. 169 

the burnt district, whicli we did. The fire has 
consumed a large portion of the business part of 
the town. In our ride we saw the situation of 
the place and public buildings. The town is laid 
out in sectional streets, crossing each other at 
right angles, with a canal running through the 
centre, ornamented on its banks with oleanders. 
The houses stand apart, two or three stories high, 
receding a little from the street, and having gar- 
dens front and back. They are built light and 
airy, and the streets being wide and near the sea, 
a fine breeze is generally felt, carrying off the 
heat, so that in reality we do not feel it so sensi- 
bly as our own summer heat; the thermometer 
is from eighty to eighty-five degrees in the shade. 
In one of our rambles we took a walk through 
a very beautiful public garden. The exotics here, 
as well as in all other warm countries, grow to 
much greater size and perfection than with us ; 
the same species seem like other plants of mam- 
moth growth. Many fine specimens of roses 
grow to good-sized trees, and cactus from thirty 
to sixty feet in height. "We saw in many places 
oleanders quite as large as many of our fruit 
trees ; indeed, there appeared few in that splen- 
did garden that could be rightly called fioweriug 

15* 



170 JOURNAL. 

plants or shrubbery ; no winter being there, they 
grow on from age to age without any interrup- 
tion. !N^ot unfrequently the seeds from different 
trees, more particularly the cactus, are carried by 
the wind to other trees, and find entrance in every 
cavity that can be found, where they vegetate 
and take root, and other trees branch out not at 
all of the same species. It is something like our 
mode of grafting, only this is self-performing, 
and that with seeds rather than shoots. We saw 
plenty of them thus growing, and on our depar- 
ture our kind hostess filled a small basket with 
these plants, and we carried them to Barbadoes 
on our return there, intending to take them to 
the United States. 

At this place we met some 'New Yorkers, and 
greeted each other with much delight; and 
although we had never been acquainted before, 
the very fact of being citizens of the same place, 
and a knowledge of each other's families, brought 
us together in feeling. The time passed very 
pleasantly while in this city. 

JSText morning we arose, and in company with 
a very agreeable young Englishman, who, as well 
as ourselves, was exploring the country, rode out 
and spent most of the day. On returning, we 



SUGAR ESTATES. 171 

took a narrow way, whicli is often inundated with 
water waist deep, making it necessary to travel^ 
about in boats. Vigilance, Belfield, &c., are all 
miserable-looking places — dirty within, not a ray 
of comfort about them. There is much marshy, 
low land along the railroad, covered with rush 
or bushes, whilst higher up were seen cane and 
cotton fields. The improvements all stand back, 
so that we saw only one or two during the ride. 
We are told the dwellings are plain, but the fijx- 
tures for sugar-making are fine. One estate has 
made twenty-five thousand hogsheads of sugar in 
a year, and cleared sixty thousand dollars. We 
saw other estates, not so large, but fine and pro- 
ductive ; they are drained by dykes running from 
the sea to the interior, as we could see. The 
whole country is flat, and subject to floods. It is 
rich and productive, but destructive to health 
and morals. 

We are told it is a fair sample of the country 
of Demerara, though some parts of British 
Guiana are better, and in the mountainous re- 
gions fine timber and stone are in abundance, 
and gold has recently been discovered, and likely 
to be profitable. 

The population of British Guiana is about one 



172 JOURNAL. 

hundred and sixty thousand. Many of the col- 
'ored are in a very demoralized condition, living 
in idleness and immorality. From all the in- 
formation we received here, as well as from what 
we saw, they are greatly debased for want of 
schools and incentives to elevation. We saw 
many of the Coolies, as well as natives, working 
in the water waist deep. The country about 
looked terrible, as if a malaria might have pre- 
vailed there. This place, as well as the other 
islands we visited, might be entirely changed if 
the interests of colored and whites were consid- 
ered, as there are great facilities here for im- 
provement. With all their disadvantages, some 
of the most intelligent informed us that since 
emancipation their exports had been far greater 
than during the whole term of the existence of 
slavery, and might have been greatly enhanced 
by the culture of cotton and rice, had not the 
English Government placed all the staples grown 
on free soil on a par with those of Cuba, Porto 
E-ico, and other slave-grown labor. They thought 
it very unjust, and petitioned the general gov- 
ernment for protection, praying that the duties 
on their exports might be removed, as they found 
there was no inducement to raise many of their 



JOHN BKIGHT. 173 

commodities wliile the duties were so heavy on 
them. John Bright and others advocated their 
cause, hut were compelled to give it up, after 
having made many enemies. What a Christian 
philanthropist is that noble-souled man, John 
Bright! His large humanity extends to all; 
his spirit is world-wide and Godlike, and his 
good name, like some in our own land, will go 
down to posterity encircled with a halo of sun- 
light, as one of the friends of human kind, and 
saviours of his race ! He knows no distinction 
of labor or caste, hut is ever pleading for the 
rights of all. I hope to be permitted to live to 
see and press the hand so often raised in his elo- 
quent pleadings for suffering humanity ! 

We now returned home, riding much of the 
way on the seaside, visiting the Arsenal, and 
many other public places. We arrived in time 
for dinner at six o'clock. 

After we had taken a good dinner we took a 
carriage and drove round to some parts of the 
city not before visited, and saw more of their 
public buildings and works. 



CHAPTER XII. 

Return to Barbadoes — Appearance of the Country — 
Kindness and Hospitality — Friends' Burial-grounds 
— Eeligious Meetings. 

"We had advanced now far in fourth month, 
1864, and were fearful of meeting excessively 
warm weather on the islands we were yet to 
visit. Accordingly, as soon as the steamer was 
in readiness, we once more emharked on the 
Thames, with much regret, as we felt our stay 
had been quite too short. We took leave of our 
kind host and hostess with feelings of near re- 
gard, hoping we might meet them again in time. 
If not, we can say to all our friends whose faces 
may be turned thitherward, try to find their good 
house. 

That night the wind was high and the sea 
boisterous ; we both were extremely seasick, and 
retired to our state-room, but not to sleep. 
When morning came, we found ourselves better. 
A good breakfast being set, we went down to 



BARBADOES. 175 

the table, but soon feeling extremely sick, I re- 
sumed my berth as soon as possible, where I 
remained most of the passage until we made 
port, and dropped anchor off the Island of Bar- 
badoes. 

We went on shore with Captain Williams, and 
felt a great deliverance in not having to en- 
counter those ill-bred boatmen. We took lodg- 
ings at Hoad's Hotel, where we were nicely 
accommodated, the proprietor and wife being 
equally kind as at Demerara. 

We took a walk the same evening to one of 
their markets, the owners being people of color. 
The meats and vegetables, as well as fruits, 
seemed quite indifferent to us. We made some 
purchases of fruits, strolled about for awhile, and 
returned to our hotel, rather favorably impressed 
with the condition of the freed people. They 
seemed more civilized, and we did not hear the 
wrangling and fighting as on the Danish Islands. 
We found an overwhelming population of this 
class; far too many for the cultivation of the 
island. 

Fourth month, 11th; second day. We have 
taken three walks over the city, ^nd find it a . 
considerable place ; the houses are compact, two 



176 JOURNAL. 

and three stories, built of stone and plastered; 
the streets are irregular and macadamized with 
limestone, so that the reflection from the white 
surface is trying to the eyes, and when it rains, a 
white, sticky mud adheres to the feet and clothes. 
The principal streets are Broad, Swan, High, 
James, and Milk Streets. It contains about nine- 
teen thousand inhabitants; the island, one hun- 
dred and sixty thousand. Colored people are 
the most numerous. The pure blacks are of the 
lower class; the mulatto takes a middle rank. 
Some fill conspicuous stations, as merchants, me- 
chanics, and municipal officers. There are a 
number of churches, hospitals, schools, &c., but 
little provision for the poor and destitute. 

"We attended the Wesleyan meeting last even- 
ing. There was a respectable assemblage of 
people, white, mulatto, and black. The black 
generally took the galleries. There were among 
the mixture some almost white. There mio^ht 
have been four hundred composing the congre- 
gation. 

We find the people kind and accommodating. 
Have done some shopping; the stores good and 
assortment general. The thermometer in shade, 
eighty-five; in sun, ninety, at one o'clock p.m. 



friends' burial-ground. 177 

There was a little rain this morning. We 
went to the Wesleyan mission-house, which 
stands on the lot once occupied by " Friends " for 
their meeting-house and burial-grounds. The 
dwelling is supposed to be a part of the meeting- 
house. It seemed very solemn to us to walk over 
the grounds where repose the ashes of those once 
in communion with us, and, as the expansive 
trees waved over the place where their remains 
are deposited, it seemed almost like a funeral 
dirge to their memory, l^o mark is visible to 
give any account of their names, the stones hav- 
ing been laid a considerable distance below the 
surface. A very interesting account was given 
us of the Friends who once lived there, and we 
could but attribute to their influence the better 
condition of the people, both colored and white. 
Although they have long since passed away, it 
seemed to us that the Scripture text would apply, 
" They being dead, yet speak; " " Go and do thou 
likewise," — the condition of all classes on this 
island being in advance of all others we have yet 
visited. The burial-ground is situated on James 
Street, above Lucas. It was sold, we were in- 
formed, by a Friend, named Gordon, who was 

16 



178 JOURNAL. 

the last relic of Quakerism here, hj what au- 
thority we did not learn. 

In the evening we went to the mission-house, 
by invitation, and took a cup of tea with the 
minister and his wife, Henry and Clarissa Hurd. 
He was engaged in church service, but returned 
to tea, and we found him a most agreeable, inter- 
esting and intelligent man, and his wife a noble- 
souled Christian, and highly gifted woman. She 
has, for many years, been in the habit of going 
about in different parts of the city, administering 
to the wants, both spiritual and temporal, of the 
"weary and heavy laden." I never saw any one 
who appeared more entirely in her place; both 
day and night is she going about among them, 
as a missionary of mercy and love. Long will 
the memory of that dear family be precious to 
me, and it was equally so to my husband. 

We met there numbers of distinguished per- 
sons from the islands; among them Anthony 
G. Ward, who was a minister of the Methodist 
persuasion, though he appeared more like a 
Friend. We found him a young man of great 
worth, and we felt no disposition to say he was 
not in his place. He extended to us an invita- 



LABORING CLASSES. 179 

tion to attend his meeting, twelve miles distant, 
at Sprightstown, on the following sixth day. 

We rode out on the island, and in the south- 
east part found the city quite extensive, v^ith fine 
improvements, the residences of merchants and 
wealthy persons, of both colors. Along some of 
the streets are small one-story dwelling-houses, 
the abodes of the colored and laboring classes, 
chiefly owned by themselves, and would cost two 
or three hundred dollars to build, and rent from 
five to twelve dollars a month. The laboring 
class look comfortable and well clad; quite as 
well as with us, if not superior to many in our 
obscure streets. They have some pride of charac- 
ter, and look to elevation through their conduct. 
The country houses are fine and the estates rich. 

We passed through the military garrison, 
which consists of fine buildings and extensive 
parade-grounds. We saw some soldiers parad- 
ing, and others exercising their arms, &c. I felt 
sad, that the object of man's creation should be 
so perverted as to be trained to killing his brother 
man. We were highly delighted with the ride, 
and have to acknowledge we have seen nothing 
so civilized and comfortable since leaving the 
United States. The island is level and well 



180 JOURNAL. 

adapted to agricultural purposes. A small river 
runs into the sea at this end of the city. 

12th. Fair morning; thermometer eighty-four; 
nice breeze. Rose at ^ve o'clock, and took a 
ride eight miles, to the Harrington Estate. We 
found the manager very civil, highly intelligent, 
and well posted in American aflairs. It was a 
delightful ride, along the south side of a beauti- 
ful valley, handsomely cultivated with fields of 
cane, in different stages of growth. This is the 
sugar-making season, and most of the cane being 
fit, we saw the laborers cutting it down and cart- 
ing the stalks to the mill, where other hands were 
employed, grinding, boiling, distilling, &c. We 
were told this estate yields from three to four 
hundred hogsheads of sugar annually, unless 
drought, or other mishap befalls it. Their works 
are propelled by steam; and here we saw a 
steam-plough of fourteen-horse-power, and was 
told it operated well. The agent is an intelligent 
man, and understood the cause of our war better 
than any Englishman with whom we have ever 
conversed. The country is sufiiciently rolling 
for all purposes of drainage. The roads are cut 
through limestone, which forms the foundation, 
and is kept in repair by sand, gravel, and some 



LABORING CLASSES. 181 

other material placed upon it as occasion re- 
quires. We observed, in every direction, cot- 
tages dotted over the country, in close proxim- 
ity, and in many places forming small villages; 
these are the houses of laborers ; some belong to 
the estate, and are rented ; others are owned by 
the occupants. The number of laborers con- 
stantly employed here is not more than fifty to 
one hundred on a plantation ; at the time of crop- 
ping they require many more, and hire by the 
day, giving two to four shillings, according to 
the work they do. The laboring population is 
much more numerous on these islands than is 
necessary, — hence emigration must take place, at 
some future time, to a great extent. The climate 
being warm, and their wants few, they make 
little answer, and, no doubt, will remain as long 
as they can procure the necessaries of life. 
There is very little forest here ; mahogany, wild 
fig, tamarinds, &c., abound. We were told the 
maguey tree has a powerful preserving quality, 
and will preserve meat for a long time. It is 
used in hospitals at Demerara for this purpose, 
with good effect. There are a few fields of cot- 
ton, but it does not look flourishing, owing to the 
cane absorbing the general attention. 

16* 



182 JOURNAL. 

13th. We had an appointed meeting this even- 
ing in the Wesleyan meeting-house, on James 
Street, near the milk market, at the invitation of 
the minister, Henry Hurd — the house one hun- 
dred and eight feet long hy sixty wide, with gal- 
leries on three sides. It was filled to overflowing, 
and the yard was also crowded, — ^the largest as- 
semblage known there for a long time. The 
meeting was given up to us to be held according 
to our form, and after a suitable time the text 
was brought into view — "Who shall ascend into 
Heaven to bring Christ down from above," &c.,I 
think under standingly and clearly to most minds, 
from the expression after the close of the meet- 
ing. They were called to the power of Christ 
within themselves ; there they would find their 
duty opened in the clearness, and required neither 
men or books to reveal it. The people sat still 
some time after the announcement that the meet- 
ing had closed, and did not move until we passed 
away. We made no arrangement for any of the 
meetings, but an announcement was made that a 
meeting would be held at Bethel Chapel the fol- 
lowing evening, at which we would be present. 

14th. We rose early and took a walk down 
town, along Cheapside Street, and passed many 



RELIGIOUS MEETINaS. 183 

very neat and comfortable dwellings, the resi- 
dences of the rich citizens. Their houses are 
surrounded with flowering trees and shrubbery — 
the oleander grows here from twenty to thirty 
feet high, and the flowers are also very large. 
The lots go down to the seaside. We passed one 
mansion that had an arbor of bamboo, leading 
from the porter's lodge to the circle before the 
door ; its appearance was quite pretty. 

Thermometer eighty to eighty-two degrees; 
gentle breeze ; feels quite pleasant in the shade. 
We are to take tea at William Heath's this even- 
ing, and attend the Bethel meeting. We are 
informed by him that there is great poverty 
amongst the laboring classes ; they would work 
if they could get anything to do, but the popula- 
tion is too great for the wants of the island, and 
hundreds must perish if rain does not favor the 
crops; there are thousands that waken in the 
morning and know not where they can get a 
meal, yet as we pass about making our observa- 
tion, this class generally look comfortable. The 
greatest destitution is in the country. 

15th. We attended Bethel meeting last even- 
ing ; W. Heath, the pastor, is a man of kind feel- 
ings, with whom we took tea, — going from his 



184 JOURNAL. 

house to the meeting, which was full to overflow- 
ing, this being the largest audience we have met 
here or elsewhere for a long time. The assem- 
blage was composed of both colored and white. 
The former were well dressed, the females wear- 
ing white turbans around their heads. All be- 
came quiet, and after a time the text was ex- 
plained — " ^N'ecessity is laid upon me, and woe is 
unto me if I preach not the Gospel," calling the 
attention of the people to practical righteousness, 
good fruits, &c. The people were attentive, and 
seemed satisfied with what they heard. The 
destitute claimed our attention, the kind minister 
oflTering to distribute whatever we had to bestow. 
We expect to go to Sprightstown to attend a 
meeting there this afternoon. 

16th. We took the omnibus at four o'clock for 
Sprightstown — Anthony G. Ward, Methodist 
pastor, who had appointed a meeting for us. We 
arrived in good time, took tea at the parsonage, 
and went to meeting at seven and a half o'clock, 
where were assembled a large audience of white, 
colored, and black, — many more whites than I 
expected to see there. The meeting was given 
up entirely to us, and conducted after our own 
order. After sitting quiet for twenty minutes, 



FKIENDS' BURIAL-GROUND. 185 

during which great stillness was observed, the 
subject was opened relating to the nature of that 
worship which is acceptable in the Divine sight, 
" God is a spirit," &c. The Christian religion is 
simple and easily to be understood, — love to God 
and love to man. The text was enlarged upon, 
and allusion made to the new birth through which 
true righteousness is to be attained. The people 
were exhorted to refrain from intemperance and 
all manner of evil, and come home to the gift nigh 
in the heart. They were remarkably still, and lis- 
tened attentively for an hour. The minister ob- 
served afterwards that it was remarkable, for they 
generally became restive after half an hour's dis- 
course. The meeting ended satisfactorily, many 
expressing their desire for us to hold another. 

We lodged with our young friend Ward, and 
took breakfast. We rose early and attempted to 
visit a graveyard once used by Friends, who had 
a meeting-house here ; but it began to rain, and 
I thought best to return. My dear husband con- 
tinued on for half a mile to the Episcopal Church, 
at the upper end of Sprightstown, which, with 
the burial-ground, is inclosed with a substantial 
stone wall. He was taken to the old part of the 
yard, and there was a tomb, with a flat stone 



186 JOURNAL. 

l}ang on the top, the inscription nearly obliter- 
ated. The only words he could make out were 
John W.j 1673. There were two other graves 
with marble sides, head and foot, without any 
inscription. There stands near the church an old- 
looking marmee tree, and growing near there is 
a jessamine, with purple and white flowers. I^ear 
the gateway is the tomb of Benjamin Collins, 
M.D., who was a reputed Friend, and practised 
medicine in Sprightstown. Inscribed on the 
tombstone is the following : Benjamin Collins, 
M.D., who departed this life April 26th, 1826, 
aged 68 years. 

This tribute of grateful remembrance is paid 
by his affectionate wife : 

" Grenerous, cheerful, and in friendship true, 
He calmly paid the debt to Nature due ; 
Blessed son of Genius, whose capacious mind, 
Open to Science, to no branch confined. 
He dauntless skilled Botanic's art to trace, 
The many plants that do this island grace; 
His country's boast, for talents found so rare. 
Who knew him best will heave a sigh sincere." 

We do not find any Friends residing on this 
island. The hand of time hath wrought great 
changes in this, as well as the other graveyard 



A SLAVER. 187 

we visited. The ruin seemed to us deep and im- 
pressive. 

The country througli which we passed was a 
iine agricultural district, containing many hand- 
some estates. [N'umerous little cottages line the 
road for many miles, and great numbers of chil- 
dren were running about, and seemed very happy. 

A friend from Philadelphia, G. W. Loud, called 
upon us, and invited us to tea at Joseph Drum- 
mett's, in company with Henry Padgham, a min- 
ister, and his wife, T. J. Cummins, a magistrate, 
with many others, white and colored. Henry 
Padgham is about sailing to England; he preached 
at St. James Church his farewell discourse when 
we attended. 

This morning Dr. Hurd preached, on Faith and 
Hope, a good logical discourse. 

18th. Called this morning on Trowbridge, the 
American Consul, and a banker named Carpen- 
ter, and some others. Found it very warm, and 
soon returned to our lodgings. These visits were 
made preparatory to our leaving for Trinidad. 

An incident related by the magistrate above 
alluded to must not be omitted. "There had 
been a suspicious-looking vessel sailing about 
in the harbor for a considerable time ; the cap- 



188 JOURNAL. 

tain and some of the men on board would fre- 
quently come on shore, especially in the evening, 
and mingle with the people of color ; they being 
white men, it created surprise. At last it came 
out that they wished to take some emigrants to 
a certain island, where they would receive large 
wages and superior accommodations for them- 
selves and families. As soon as this was made 
known the colored people were advised to be- 
ware ; but they told a fair story, and said a writ- 
ten contract should be made with every family 
to carry out all they had promised. The colored 
people were still advised to be very cautious, as 
all might not be right ; contracts, however, were 
made out, some money, perhaps, paid to each. 
A large number were thus entrapped, probably 
sufficient to fill the vessel. All looked very fair, 
and they were told she would not sail until a 
certain period, and they would have sufficient 
time to prepare everything they wished to take 
with them. Soon after this the crew came to 
shore one night with a number of boats, made a 
hasty call at each dwelling, told the people it was 
an imperative command from the captain that all 
should be on board that night, as he would sail 
very early in the morning. They accordingly, 



A SLAVER. 189 

having all confidence in the captain, made ready 
as soon as possible, and went on board. As soon 
as they were all snugly settled on the vessel the 
captain gave orders to put her under way. The 
people immediately became much alarmed, but 
they were ordered to be quiet, and no notice 
taken of their complaints. They now saw they 
were decoyed, and that the vessel was actually a 
slaver. One man said — ^ I will not go; put me 
on shore.' They ordered him below, and told 
him he had contracted to go, and should go. He 
instantly jumped overboard, and being a good 
swimmer, reached the pier from which he started, 
and ran up into the town with great speed. Stop- 
ping near this magistrate's house to give the 
alarm, he told us he was awakened in great sur- 
prise by the cries of the people of color. He 
went out to see what was the matter, and found 
them crying bitterly that their fathers and friends 
had all been carried into slavery, which we feared 
might be true. Information was conveyed as quick 
as possible to the Grovernor. He immediately sent 
out small vessels in all directions, if possible to 
overtake them and bring the people back. It 
was of no avail. They returned to bring the sad 
tidings to their friends, who were inconsolable at 

17 



190 JOURNAL. 

the loss." We remained on the island near two 
weeks, but nothing had been heard from them 
previous to our leaving. 

Is it not clear to every thinking mind, that so 
long as slavery exists under the Spanish gov- 
ernment, that free people are liable to be kid- 
napped at any hour ? The presumption was when 
we were in Barbadoes, that they had been taken 
to the Island of Cuba, and there sold as slaves. 
"Would it not be well for the friends of the slave 
everywhere to look about and see what we have 
to do ? that we may be instrumental in " unbind- 
ing every heavy burden, and letting the oppressed 
go free." 

We took leave of this magistrate, and the 
friends that we met there, with feelings of in- 
terest and sympathy not soon to be forgotten, 
many of them desiring us to forward our like- 
nesses after our return. Great numbers called 
on us previous to our leaving the island, many of 
them requiring aid, which it was our pleasure to 
bestow. We then bade a long, and perhaps last 
farewell to them all, having spent our time most 
agreeably, receiving great kindness and atten- 
tion, which we have much desired to reciprocate 
at our own home. 



FLYING-FISH. 191 

On this island only, we saw an abundance of 
flying-fish, which the Islanders consider a great 
delicacy. We found them quite palatable, but 
have seen no fish on any of the islands, or in 
South America, to compare with our own, al- 
though we had no cause to complain of our 
fare on this island. !N o island, of all we visited, 
had so much the appearance of freedom. The 
great difficulty seems an overgrown population. 
We could say with the lecturer on this subject, 
that little elevation could be arrived at until 
the people had the opportunity to bring out their 
talent for enterprise and perseverance, which, we 
believe, many would evince were the means put 
in their power. Great care should be taken in 
the proper selection of a home in some distant 
land, to which they would be willing to emi- 
grate, as most who might feel inclined to do so, 
are like children, always having been under the 
control of others. Much would be required to 
make them comfortable, until they were in cir- 
cumstances to care for themselves, and they 
would be in great danger of being abducted by 
the cupidity of the whites to some slave market, 
if not protected by the English government. A 
large number of English families reside here. 



CHAPTER XIII. 

St. Vincent — Grenada — Trinidad — Coolies. 

Fourth month, 20th. — We again embarked on 
board the Thames with our gentlemanly captain, 
who seemed to us like an old friend. We ar- 
rived at St. George's, on the Island of St. Yin- 
cent, in the night. We had but an obscure view 
of the harbor and its surroundings. Continuing 
on our route, we reached Grenada about seven 
o'clock A.M., and landing, spent the day in that 
uninteresting town called St. George's, on the 
Isle of Grenada. 

We first made our way up a very high hill to 
a poor hotel. We went through the town and 
visited the fortifications. The town is built on a 
hill, and is either ascending or descending in all 
directions. Houses old and poor, and trade next 
to nothing. We went into half a dozen stores to 
purchase shoestrings, but could find none for 
sale. Had it not been for the kindness of an 
apothecary, we should not have been able to pro- 



TRINIDAD. 193 

cure them ; he induced a shoe merchant to take 
them out of a pair of shoes and let me have 
them. 

There is a vacant square in the centre used as 
a market-place, around which the stores are 
placed. We went on hoard our steamer at Rve 
o'clock, but did not leave until eight o'clock. It 
is here the family of Captain Hole reside; his wife 
came on hoard at St. Vincent ; we spent the day 
at his home whilst the ship was loading. The 
hills look very barren, covered with shrubbery 
of a wild leafless aspect. A few fine houses 
are situated on high hills, overlooking the town. 
The captain's family occupy one of these. 

Continuing on our voyage we reached the Port 
of Spain, in the Island of Trinidad, at seven and 
a half o'clock, on sixth day, fourth month, 22d, 
1864. On landing, we proceeded to Mary 
O'Brien's hotel. She is a colored woman, and 
her house is thought the best in the town. One 
of her daughters is married to a white man, who 
looked very respectable, and they live well. Her 
son is a distinguished ornithologist, and has a 
vast collection of birds from all the different 
islands, as well as from South America. We 
felt interested in this family. 

11* 



194 JOURNAL. 

After breakfast we took a carriage and drove 
through the town and its environs. The streets 
run at right angles. King Street, being the 
principal street, is very wide, with four rows of 
shade trees and a fountain of surpassing beauty. 
The houses are built two stories, and have stores 
in the basement, and dwellings above, with ve- 
randas in front of them. This is the general 
style of building on these islands. In our ride 
we called at the Mission House, and were met by 
the minister. Dr. Hosford, with a letter from Min- 
ister Hurd. He had been apprised of our coming, 
and he and his family received us with every 
kindness. They told us how glad they would 
be to make way for us to hold a meeting there, 
and said they had made an appointment for us to 
do so that evening, when they should expect a 
full attendance, and desired us to take the con- 
trol of the meeting, and hold it in our own way. 
What an example of liberality, and how will it 
compare with our tour in Europe a few years 
since! The children of the Lord know each 
other in spirit in every clime, being taught of 
Him. They sympathize with each other in en- 
tertaining strangers, believing it possible, in the 
words of Scripture, that in doing this, they may 



TRINIDAD. 195 

sometimes " entertain angels unawares." We 
accepted the kind invitation for the meeting; 
and having been invited to tea, after it was over 
went directly to the meeting. ^Notwithstanding 
the time was short, the meeting was crowded 
to overflowing with all classes. After a solemn 
pause, they were addressed from the text, " Yer- 
ily, I perceive God is no respecter of persons," 
&c. ; and applying it to every class and nation, 
opened the means of salvation through obedience 
to the power of God in the heart. Those in high 
standing were exhorted to remember those of 
low degree, by lifting the heavy weight from 
their shoulders, and speaking in the expressive 
language of conduct, "Else up and walk." The 
people were told if they wished to improve their 
island and the condition of the lower classes, 
they must do all in their power to educate and en- 
courage morality and industry. While this class 
were exhorted to do all in their power for their 
own elevation, it was but too evident that a vast 
amount was to be done by those called the higher 
classes. After the meeting the people seemed 
riveted to their seats, having to h§ told more than 
once that the services of meeting were over. We 
returned to the Mission House, many accompa- 



196 JOURNAL. 

nying us there. It was evident a chord of feeling 
had been touched that produced a general vibra- 
tion. This kind minister waited on us to our 
lodgings, and spent an hour in friendly and in- 
teresting conversation. 

On taking leave of him, he said, " I hope to 
visit the United States, and should I come to 
Philadelphia, your house would be the one I 
should seek." We told him that would be ex- 
tremely gratifying to us, and wished him to make 
our house his home. We then retired for the 
night, in humble thankfulness for the " privilege 
of breaking bread among the multitude, who 
were hungering and thirsting for the bread of 
life." 

I omitted to say, in coming from Barbadoes to 
Trinidad, we met some most agreeable persons, 
John Clairmont and wife, with their little daugh- 
ter. His wife had known me in 'New York, 
years ago, and our meeting was highly pleasing. 
Her husband, an English gentleman, made him- 
self very agreeable. An invitation was extended 
to make them a visit, a few miles out of the city, 
which we did. 

The meeting with this lovely young woman 
carried me back to my earlier life, when she 



OLD ACQUAINTANCES. 197 

knew me in mj dear native land, where I used 
oft to mingle in sweet fellowship with warm con- 
genial hearts. But where are they now? Gone! 
many of them forever gone from earthly vision ! 
But, although we see them here no more, or en- 
joy their sweet companionship, we may hehold 
them in mental vision, translated from earth to 
heaven, like so many bright gems added to the 
Father's crown, while we feel hound to them 
by mystic bands, that even death cannot sever. 
This lovely young creature had left every kin- 
dred tie, and all the endearments of home, leaving 
behind her a fond and loving mother, and came 
to a land of strangers to reside. I felt great 
sympathy for her, still in her youth, sweet and 
lovely. Her husband, a most polite and accom- 
plished gentleman, appeared to leave nothing un- 
done to promote her happiness ; but it was too 
evident that the want of a mother's loving coun- 
sel was felt. It seemed as if she could have ex- 
claimed, in the beautiful lines of the poet, — 

*' Backward, turn backward, oli Time, in your flight! 
Make me a cMld again, just for to-night. 
Mother, come back from the echoless shore I 
Take me again to your heart, as of yore. 



198 JOURNAL. 

Kiss from my forehead the furrows of care, 
And smooth the brown locks, once ringlets so fair. 
Slumber's soft calm o'er my heavy lids creep, — 
Rock me to sleep, mother, rock me to sleep. 

<< Come, let your brown hair, just lighted with gold, 
Fall on my shoulders again, as of old ; 
Let it drop over my forehead to-night, 
Shading my faint eyes away from the light ; 
For, with its sunny edge shadows once more, 
Happy will linger the visions of yore ; 
Lovingly soft, its bright billows sweep, — 
Eock me to sleep, mother, rock me to sleep." 

THE ANSWER. 

" My child, my child, thou art weary to-night ; 
Thy spirit is sad, and dim is the light ; 
Thou longest again for my loving care, 
For my kiss on thy lips, for my hand on thy hair ; 
But angels around thee their loving watch keep ; 
And angels, my child, will rock thee to sleep. 

" Thou shouldst not weary, my child, by the way ; 
But watch for the light of that brighter day. 
Count liot thy trials or efforts in vain ; 
They will bring the light of thy childhood again. 
Tire not of sowing, for others to reap ; 
For angels, my child, will rock thee to sleep. 

" Nearer thee now, than in days that are flown ; 
Purer the lovelight encircling thy home ; 



OLD ACQUAINTANCES. 199 

Far more enduring the watch for to-night, 
Than e'en a mother's presence, away from this light. 
Soon the dark shadows will linger no more, 
Nor come, at thy call, from the opening door; 
But know thou, my child, that angels watch keep ; 
And soon, very soon, will rock thee to sleep." 
* -55^ * * * * 



What seemed an additional weight of care on 
the mind of this young creature was, they had 
one darling little girl, a rosebud of six years, the 
pride and sunbeam of the household, whom they 
were going to take to England to be educated, 
and leave her with her husband's family, prob- 
ably for many years, — schools, such as they 
thought suitable, could not be found on the 
island. They were to embark in a short time. 
We parted from them with much regret, and 
could but hope we might meet again. 

During the time of our stay with them they 
drove us through different parts of the island. 
We went out on the savanna, a beautiful spot, 
where stands a neat cottage, which had been 
built, not long before, for the reception of the 
Prince of Wales. 

I omitted to mention that Conrad F. Stoll- 
meyer called upon us, soon after our arrival on 



200 JOURNAL. 

the island. He married a daughter of Jacob 
Snyder, of Philadelphia. He heard of us from 
the manager of the London and Colonial Bank, 
in Trinidad, and on mentioning our names to his 
wife, she recollected that my dear husband had 
attended her mother in her illness, in years gone 
by. She requested her husband to call on us, 
which he did. He informed us that he had 
edited a newspaper in Philadelphia, some years 
since, advocating Abolition views, and received 
much reproach in consequence; that he was in 
Philadelphia at the time the Pennsylvania Hall 
was burned, &c. We found him a very communi- 
cative man, and highly intelligent; presuming 
from what we heard, that he was president of the 
Pitch Lake Company, and engaged in a general 
commission business. A very pressing invitation 
was sent by the wife to take tea with them the 
next evening, which we accepted. 

That day we had driven through a mountain- 
ous country, along Maraval Valley, the wild- 
est and most picturesque scenery we beheld on 
any of the islands. This valley has a reser- 
voir, that supplies the town with water. We 
fulfilled our promise with the Stollmeyers, and 
took tea with them. We spent a couple of hours 



COOLIES. 201 

very agreeably, and found them highly interest- 
ing people, and were conducted to our lodgings 
by father and son, who promised to see us on 
board of the steamer next morning. They ac- 
cordingly called, and having engaged a boat for 
our use, we were placed on board in good 
time. Our visit to this interesting family will 
long be held in remembrance. They gave us 
some beautiful specimens of minerals, and nut- 
megs, cinnamon, and vanilla beans, all produc- 
tions of the island. Since our return we have 
been in correspondence with them. 

The people on this island, proprietors of plan- 
tations, brought over large numbers of Coolies, 
many years ago, but of whom they now appear 
to be heartily sick, — many of them being im- 
moral in their habits and extremely idle. We 
saw them in considerable numbers lounging care- 
lessly about under the trees, appearing to do 
nothing for their own support. The Islanders 
would be glad to encourage emigration from the 
United States, as a great portion of their island 
is uncultivated. It is thought the example of 
the Coolies has had a very deleterious effect upon 
the people of color, and they wish to rid them- 
selves of them, if possible. The population of 

18 



202 JOURNAL. 

colored people does not seem sufficient to culti- 
vate that island, which is the cause of their de- 
sire to promote emigration. We heard of no 
unkind treatment to the freed people, and saw 
less degradation than on any other island we vis- 
ited, except Barbadoes. The Port of Spain is 
rather a clean and pretty city for the West In- 
dies. Main Street, with four rows of trees, and 
fountains, with a cathedral at the upper end 
standing in the centre, makes quite a handsome 
appearance. The houses are two stories, with 
stores below, dwellings above; with verandas, 
which make them cool and pleasant. There is a 
square, with trees and walks, opposite the public 
buildings, and the citizens' dwellings are scat- 
tered throughout the city and environs. The 
Governor's house forms a place of attraction. 
It is a large and pretty building. The Ice House 
is a place of great note for anything desired in 
the way of delicacies. The proprietor told us 
the ice business alone would be a poor concern, 
but when connected with other things, it is made 
to answer a good purpose. We saw but little of 
the improvements of the island. 

Pitch Lake is a place of attraction; a large 
collection of asphaltum is constantly collecting ; 



PORT OP SPAIN. 203 

in many places it is hard enough to hear a horse 
and rider, in others there is water flowing. The 
pitch is in a fluid state. 

The staples here, as on the other islands, are 
sugar, molasses, and rum. Some cotton and 
coff*ee are raised, but sugar is the great staple. 



CHAPTER XIY. 

Barbadoes — St. Vincent — Burial at Sea — Martinique 
— Dominica — Guadaloupe — Antigua — St. Kitt's — Ke- 
turn to St. Thomas. 

Fourth month, 24th, 1864. On first day morn- 
ing, at six o'clock, we left for the ship, and got 
under way for St. Thomas about eight o'clock 
A. M., directing our course west to Grenada, 
reaching the town about ^yq o'clock. The cap- 
tain visited his family, whilst the ship remained 
at anchor until twelve o'clock, when we again 
got under way. 

The harbor is surrounded with high hills, and 
has in front a rock, on which stands a fortifica- 
tion that shuts the harbor out from view of the 
sea, making it as clear as a river. It is a very 
mountainous island, with little appearance of cul- 
ture along the sea-coast. Through the interior 
sugar, cocoa, and cotton are cultivated. 

As in most other places, the poor colored man 
is here in degradation , held up as lazy and worth- 
less, and always spoken of as little above the 



INTOLERANCE. 205 

■» 

brutes, and only fit for servants, — views we could 
not entertain. In our conversations with the 
whites and mulattoes, who were as intolerant of 
color as the whites, we constantly maintained 
that the treatment they received from the higher 
classes, as they called themselves, tended to de- 
grade them in their own estimation, and although 
there were many exceptions to this rule, yet they 
must acknowledge their habjts and want of self- 
respect kept them in a wretched and degraded 
state, and that the conduct of the whites towards 
them, tended to establish it; while kindness and 
Christian counsel and assistance would promote 
different feelings, and induce them to rise in the 
scale of human existence. 

Many were the conversations we had with the 
would-be lords of the Caribees against the course 
they were pursuing towards them. A man and 
his wife, who came on board at Grenada, under- 
took to defend them, saying they were an idle, 
worthless set of beings; that it was force only 
that induced them to labor, and they would 
never be anything else but degraded. We told 
them we believed it under their present system. 
He then said, "Tou do not suppose we get 
along here without whipping, do you ? If you 

18* 



206 JOURNAL. 

-» 

do, you are greatly mistaken ?" I told him I did 
not suppose that barbarity was still practised ; he 
said it is, and on other islands too, and it's all 
right. He then turned to me and said, " Are you 
writing a book V I said, I can scarcely answer 
that question. He then said, " Do you suppose 
you are capable of giving a correct account of 
the West India Islands the little time you have 
been on them?" Without answering his ques- 
tion, I asked him if he thought, had he been six 
months in the United States, and a close observer 
of all that he saw or heard, whether he would 
consider himself possessed of sufficient informa- 
tion to write a book ? His answer was " I don't 
know." I told him I thought it was very easy 
to know. I then reminded him of one of their 
countrywomen, Harriet Martineau, who went fly- 
ing through the United States a few years ago, 
and with telegraphic speed, and it appears she 
was able to write a book, and thought she had 
become thoroughly conversant with the manners 
and customs of the people of the United States, 
and every incident connected therewith, and I 
think the time was very short she spent in Amer- 
. ica. They soon left us, and we saw no more of 
them. 



THE VOYAGE. 207 

"We arrived at St. Vincent at six o'clock a.m.; 
we did not land at ttis time, the steamer only re- 
maining long enough to change the mail. Leav- 
ing about seven o'clock, we directed our course to 
Barbadoes, in the harbor of which we arrived at 
seven o'clock p. m., but did not go ashore. 

We had been extremely seasick nearly all the 
passage from Trinidad to this port, which makes 
one feel wretchedly, and not unfrequently calls 
forth the exclamation, " Oh ! if I ever reach land 
again, this will be my last sea-voyage." Such a 
conclusion is often like writing in the sand ; and 
when again seated on deck, with interesting com- 
pany of a moonlight evening, and the sea calm 
and beautiful, we more often say, "What a lux- 
ury ! how charming a moonlight evening at sea!" 

Fourth month, 25th, 1864. — A fine shower of 
rain fell through the night, which refreshed the 
atmosphere. Here we were joined by an acces- 
sion of passengers, among the number our young 
friend A. G. "Ward, the minister at Sprightstown, 
on his return to England. By him we received a 
note from Clarissa Hurd, whose delicate health 
prevented her from coming on board, as was an- 
ticipated, to bid us farewell. 

We had on the ship a number of sick soldiers. 



208 JOURNAL. 

whom we had brought on from one of the other 
islands. It was soon ascertained one of them 
was likely to die. That evening young Ward 
was summoned to his bedside. He told us on 
his return the man seemed entirely tranquil, and 
desired to go home, then saying, "I expect to 
meet my wife in Heaven;" he said but little 
more before he closed his eyes in death. His 
remains were then wrapped in a tarred sail-cloth, 
and next morning at eight o'clock preparations 
were made for the funeral. Everything was re- 
moved from the lower deck near the wheel- 
house ; a bier was placed upon the platform that 
overhangs the sea, on which the remains were 
deposited, with the English colors thrown over 
it. All the sailors were dressed in their best 
attire — I think in white. It was truly a most 
solemn and imposing scene. The passengers 
stood around, all who were able to come on 
deck, where sorrow could be seen on every face. 
Our humane and dignified captain read the 
church service in a most impressive manner, and 
when he came to that part of the service, "We 
commit dust to dust, and ashes to ashes," he 
changed the words, by saying, " We commit this 
body to the deep," when some of the officers that 



BURIAL AT SEA. 209 

stood near the bier gently allowed it to slide 
noiselessly from its place, without even removing 
the colors. A dash was heard in the sea — the 
waves had swallowed up the lifeless remains — 
the sea had received its dead, and all was over! 
I cast my eyes around over the passengers and 
sailors, and believed there was not one in whose 
eye the tear did not gather; all were made to 
feel that this man, too, was their brother. It 
was with some difficulty the tender-spirited com- 
mander could read the service, he seemed to feel 
so deeply the solemnity of the occasion. For my- 
self, I had often heard of "burials at sea," but 
none can form an adequate conception of the 
solemnity that comes over every mind when the 
sad scene is carried out in their midst. We are 
led to reflect on the shor{ life of man, the termi- 
nation of all his designs and hopes, the silence 
that now reigns over him, who a little while ago 
was so busy and so gay. The end of all things 
here is vividly portrayed on such an occasion. 
Home and friends the lone one hoped soon to 
meet ; all had to be given up ; the mandate of 
Death had gone forth, and would not be denied. 
I rejoiced in spirit to find that his hopes were 
fixed on that higher life beyond the narrow con- 



210 JOURNAL. 

fines of the grave; that his spirit would witness 
a transition to that blest abode where angels 
only dwell, and years have no ending ! There 
we will leave this solemn scene. 

26th. Leaving Barbadoes and its harbor about 
three o'clock p.m., we passed on to Castries, the 
town of entry to St. Lucia, at six o'clock p.m., 
and after a short trip passed St. Pierre, in Mar- 
tinique, about twelve o'clock at night. It is one 
of the French islands, and said to be in a better 
state of cultivS^tion than most of the English 
ones. Thence to the Island of Dominica, which 
is a small place, by five o'clock a.m. ; thence to 
Bastaire, on the Island of Guadaloupe, which is 
also held by the French, by ten o'clock. It is 
an old-looking place, standing on the harbor, 
with a boulevard and ornamental trees, giving 
it an airy and pleasant appearance. The country 
is hilly, but we saw in passing along the coast 
more of cultivation than in some of the other 
islands. We came again to the English harbor 
of Antigua at five o'clock p.m. We passed St. 
Kitt's at six o'clock p.m., and landed our friend 
Ward at twelve o'clock at night. 

Continuing our passage, we arrived in the har- 
bor of St. Thomas at three o'clock p.m., having 



ST. THOMAS. 211 

been extremely sick during the passage from 
Trinidad. We now bade adieu to our kind Cap- 
tain Hole and crew of the Thames, with whom 
we had been agreeably associated for one month 
among the Caribee Islands and South America. 

We found here our faithful boatman, as on 
former occasions, ready to take us on shore, and 
went directly to the Commercial. Our landlord 
had been apprised of our coming, and had a 
room ready for us. Our old waiter, Jo^n Shil- 
ling, we found here, as well as the kind colored 
housekeeper, Martina. We remained at this 
place until the vessel was ready to sail for Ber- 
muda. Finding Captain Watlington at this port, 
he gave us an account of some of our fellow- 
boarders at Santa Cruz, who had gone on to the 
United States, — among these Dr. Henderson and 
wife from 'New Jersey, and Shotwell from New 
York, of whom we have spoken. 

The day following our arrival numbers of our 
fellow-boarders came on from Santa Cruz to 
St. Thomas; among them Breneman, wife and 
daughter, from Pennsylvania, Dr. Shippen, 
motherland sister, from Philadelphia, with a 
highly respectable colored man in attendance, 
all waiting for a passage to the United States. 



212 JOURNAL. 

Some of them sailed before our steamer was 
ready, and others followed after us. 

As we were detained on the island awaiting 
the steamer, we concluded one morning to ascend 
its highest peak. It required two hours for us 
to walk up. On the way we stopped many times 
to admire beautiful shrubs, wild flowers, and or- 
namental trees that skirted either side of the 
road. To our surprise we saw on many of the 
trees huge protuberances, some of them of great 
size, one being two feet in diameter. They re- 
sembled a black bag. Some were suspended 
from the trees, others snugly fastened among the 
limbs, and others again were near the roots of 
the trees. We could not imagine what they 
were, as we had never seen anything of the kind 
before. Each of us having a stick, we thought 
we would give one near the foot of the tree a 
little strike, when lo and behold ! out jumped an 
innumerable army of ants, like grasshoppers for 
multitude, as they could not be numbered. They 
ran to and fro, and seemed disposed to make war 
upon us, as we had attacked their strong citadel, 
and fearing their anger we hastened fro^ them 
with much speed. 

The mountain which we ascended I think must 



ANTS. 213 

be many thousand feet above the principal part 
of the town. On the top of the highest peak we 
found a splendid dwelhng, the habitation of some 
of the aristocracy who have passed away. The 
place looked as if little interest was manifested 
in keeping it in order ; every part seemed dilapi- 
dated. We wandered about some time among 
the rocky cliffs. We saw no one about save an 
old colored cook; but on descending met several 
young men on horseback going up the declivity. 
The aged woman told us they had rented the 
premises for a retreat during the hottest part of 
the season, when liberated from business. It is 
considered a great feat for strangers to ascend to 
the top. In our descent we were very careful 
not to place ourselves in battle array with the 
army of ants we met in ascending. 

It reminded us of the army of ants we saw in 
Cuba, six miles out of Havana, where we went 
on an excursion with a friend from the British 
Provinces. Those were far more docile; for 
although we disturbed their repose in their quiet 
resting-place, they seemed entirely harmless, com^ 
ing out a living army, walking with nice precis^ 
ion Indian file, each with a complete umbrella 
over his head. This seems almost an incredible 

19 



214 JOURNAL, 

relation, but has been given with strict regard to 
truth. 

We called each other to the novel scene, and 
examined carefully of what the umbrellas con- 
sisted, and found them to be a piece of delicate 
leaf over every head. These were the large 
black ants. Does it not wonderfully illustrate 
the wise provision made by the Creator for all his 
creatures, giving even the little emmet tribe suf- 
ficient reason, or instinct, to build houses and 
shield themselves from the tropical sun, as well 
as to provide sustenance to sustain life ? 

We are still waiting here for a vessel to sail to 
Bermuda, and the people were desirous we should 
be present at another of their meetings; we have 
concluded to assemble with them at Cocoanut 
Square. 

There was a great concourse of people gath- 
ered, from white to ebony. After a solemn pause 
the subject was illustrated — " He is a free man 
whom the truth makes free, and all are slaves 
beside," desiring the people to reflect how this 
text should be applied ; and now that the chains 
of bodily servitude had been broken, did they 
sufficiently appreciate the sacred boon of liberty, 
or did they abuse it by habits of intemperance, 



A SERMON. 215 

idleness, and debaucliery? Although this was 
the result of the slave system, and they were 
laboring under great disadvantages, yet all peo- 
ple had it in their power to be moral, and 
refrain from habits of intemperance; that I 
noticed in the first story of our hotel, on one 
side a place of business, a tailor shop, where 
many were industriously engaged, with little in- 
termission, from early morn to darksome night, 
accumulating substance against a time of need; 
while on the other side was a miserable grog- 
shop, where drinking, carousing, and swearing, 
was the programme for each succeeding day. 
"We saw them staggering from the door into the 
streets, ready for any kind of violence that might 
come in their way. 

I also interrogated the whites whether they 
had used the sacred boon of freedom as God had 
ordained? Had they set an example for the 
people of color worthy of imitation ? Had those 
high in the scale of human existence reached out 
a friendly hand for their help ? Had they lifted 
the heavy burden from their shoulders and said, 
Arise and stand upon your feet ? It was found 
this had not been the case, but they had allowed 
the downtrodden to continue in their degrada- 



216 JOURNAL. 

tion, without much feeling on the subject. The 
meeting closed under a feeling of much solem- 
nity; many came to take us by the hand, and 
express their gratitude. 

Before leaving the island we paid a visit to E,. 
Swift and daughter, and to the American consul 
and wife. 

The steamer for Bermuda did not arrive until 
the tenth. We went on board and found but 
few passengers, and were well accommodated. 
There was a sick gentleman on board, a resident 
of St. Thomas. Our steamer is called the Alpha, 
Captain Hunter. "We weighed anchor at three 
and a half o'clock, and after getting out of the 
harbor, directed our course northward, with a 
fair wind from southeast. We glided along, at 
the rate of nine knots, for our destined port, 
Bermuda, passing several small, barren islands 
along the main Island of St. Thomas, until night 
appeared, and we again retiring endeavored to 
crave the protection of Him who suffereth not a 
sparrow to fall to the ground without His notice, 
and, resigning ourselves to His almighty care, 
sank to rest. 

Our passengers consisted of Isabella Grinnell, 
wife of Robert Grinnell, of the firm of Grinnell 



BEKMUDA. 217 

& Minturn, now in the army ; a young man from 
St. Thomas, one of our company, whom we 
found a very agreeable person, was on his way to 
Philadelphia to consult a surgeon in reference to 
a diseased jaw. He paid us a visit at our own 
house, during his stay in this city. Weather was 
fine on our voyage, but sea rough, and we were 
both very seasick, We spoke the ship Rio, go- 
ing to Baltimore, 

14th. Rained hard through the day and night. 
It was quite cool, requiring a change of clothing ; 
our latitude 28° 30'; wind southeast. Both are 
so seasick, we made up our minds we would 
have enough of the sea, if we reached home 
once more. 

Wind continues fair, temperature cool, and 
steering forward on our way, we expect to get 
into harbor by twelve o'clock. Took a pilot 
about eleven o'clock. 

The day is damp and foggy. As we ap- 
proach St. George, Bermuda, we discovered a 
group of islands, green and beautiful, but with- 
out culture. We enter the harbor of St. George 
through a narrow frith, and coming to anchor 
about twelve o'clock m,, landed in a small 
boat, and making our way up to Hayward's Ho- 

19* 



218 JOURNAL. 

tel, found we could not be accommodated, and 
were referred to the other hotel, which looked 
dark and uncomfortable. Meeting with some 
of the boarders, who looked like blockade-run- 
ners, we felt glad when told we could not be 
accommodated, as they also were full. My 
dear husband went in pursuit of a carriage to 
convey us to Hamilton. As a favor, procured 
one sufficiently large to take ourselves and bag- 
gage. Stopping at the post-office, we received 
several letters from our friends, giving us much 
intelligence, our friends generally well, with one 
or two exceptions, and anxiously looking for our 
return. 

We soon ascertained that Thomas "W. Godet, 
who resides near Hamilton, was doing business 
in this place. We made ourselves known to him, 
and he immediately urged our acceptance of a 
visit to his mother. Our ride was along; the 
margin of the sea, — oleanders, in great beauty, 
skirting the road on either side. We rode about 
twelve miles to the house of his mother. We 
found her a most kind and hospitable woman, 
who, w^ith her three lovely daughters and the 
promising young man who accompanied us, with 
two little boys, did all in their power to make it 
agreeable to us. 



BERMUDA. 219 

We also visited her daughter and husband, by 
the name of Darrell, on the opposite side of the 
island, son of Chief Justice Darrell, at whose 
house we visited, — a fine location, not far from 
Hamilton. We spent one week with our friends 
on this island. 

19th. Spent one day at Elizabeth Aletta 
Doyle's, who lives in a fine house on the south 
side, on a high hill, a half mile off. 

20th. Thermometer 70°; windy and a little 
rain. Visited the Cove, and spent the evening 
at Dr. Gilbert's, very agreeably. 

21st. We were taken to the lighthouse by Dr. 
Harvey, and after returning, occupied the re- 
mainder of the day in getting our baggage on 
board the Henrietta, preparatory to sailing to- 
morrow morning. 



CHAPTER XV. 

Farewell — The Retuen Home. 

22d. First day. We took leave of our friends 
in the most affectionate manner, the young man 
accompanying us to the boat, and remaining with 
us most of the day, as we did not sail before next 
morning at twelve o'clock. The passengers be- 
ing all on board, the wind north and dead ahead, 
and tide against us, we could not pass the bar 
before morning. In the evening we held a very 
satisfactory meeting on board. The subject of 
practical righteousness was illustrated. We re- 
tired to rest and slept soundly. 

Our cargo consisted of potatoes, tomatoes, 
and onions, creating a great heat and unpleasant 
odor, making many very sick. 

We had been on board one week previous to 
sailing, in order to choose our state-rooms, when 
there is no doubt I contracted disease from the 
bad odor of the vessel, it being appropriated to 



ILLNESS ON BOARD. 221 

carrying vegetables. It was the only vessel in 
which we could procure a passage. 

Soon after I was on board I was attacked with 
bilious fever, and was extremely ill during the 
whole of the passage, so that my dear husband 
thought my recovery very doubtful. There had 
been much said in the hearing of myself and hus- 
band relative to committing corpses to the sea, 
which gave him great concern, so much so, that he 
afterward told me his spirit almost died within 
him. I did not recover from the fever for many 
long months after my return home. 

On leaving Bermuda we passed numerous 
little islands in the bay and over the shoals that 
obstruct the channel, passing the lighthouse on 
one side and the dockyard on the other. It 
is situated on Ireland Island. These works are 
extensive, and constitute the great attraction of 
visitors, having cost the government an immense 
amount of money, and consist of a magnifi- 
cent dockyard and penitentiary for convicts. 
They are now mostly abandoned and kept for 
the repair of government steamers, and a barracks 
for soldiers. Fine specimens of agate are found 
around this dockyard. 

Necessity compelled us to go round the island, 



222 JOURNAL. 

and passing the Georgetown Heights and fort, we 
landed our pilot, and continued our course on the 
west side of the island, passing the lighthouse 
on our right, took our course northward for Kew 
York. 

The wind was gentle, and the sea calm, so that 
on third day, the twenty-fourth, at four o'clock, 
the lighthouse was still visible. 

30th. Second day. 'Now eight days since we 
came on hoard. I^othing remarkable has taken 
place, save the very general sickness of the pas- 
sengers, and variable weather, head winds, stiff 
breezes, rough sea, &c., &c., I myself being very 
ill most of the trip. Thermometer leaving Ber- 
muda, seventy-two ; to-day it is sixty-eight. 

The Island of Bermuda, or rather, the princi- 
pal one among them, where we spent most of 
our time during our stay, looks fertile and ap- 
pears well adapted to the cultivation of grain, 
vegetables, and fruits. To our surprise, very 
little is cultivated, except a few kinds of vege- 
tables, which they carry to New York as some of 
the earliest of the season. We felt satisfied if 
any encouragement was given to induce the freed 
people to industry, by allowing them to cultivate 
as much land as their capabilities would admit, 



THE FREEDMEN. 223 

it would be but a short time before plenty would 
crown tbeir labors, which might be dispensed to 
every part of the island. They now depend 
on the United States, or Europe, for most of 
their supplies. We saw great tracts of country 
entirely uncultivated, grown over with a very in- 
ferior kind of cedar, while great numbers of the 
freed people remained in idleness and degrada- 
tion. This ought not so to be. All might be 
made comfortable, thriving, and happy, if the 
right course was pursued by those who have it 
in their power. We saw clearly the cause of the 
poverty-stricken condition of the island. None 
need wonder that so many young men seek other 
homes, while no inducements are held out for 
them to remain, — no business of any account 
being done there, and the folly of caste was too 
apparent. This will have to be laid aside. Peo- 
ple must be valued for their worth and virtues. 
The American people have had to learn hard 
lessons on this subject; many of them written in 
letters of blood. I hope it will not be so on any 
of the islands, but it seemed to us the measure 
of iniquity was, on some we visited, wellnigh 
full. 

We passed a bark off St. George's Bluffs, 



224 JOURNAL. 

going to Bermuda, in which our fellow boarder 
Shotwell, and Dr. Henderson, took passage a 
month since. On board poor Shotwell died. 

31st. Quite cool; mercury 62°; fine breeze. 
The day turned out fine, the wind favorable, and 
we made good sail, and saw land at five and a 
half o'clock p.m., and took pilot about six o'clock 
p. M. The wind soon died away, and we moved 
moderately through the night; nevertheless, it 
brought us to the Hook at six o'clock. Ther- 
mometer 67°, and prospect of a fine day. 

We rose in time to see Staten Island in all its 
gayety and beauty. The green hills, fine dwell- 
ings and improved grounds, were in such striking 
contrast to what we had seen, that I had to re- 
mark, after all, we have seen nothing half equal- 
ling the beauty now before us. 

"We soon took the pilot on board, and next the 
harbor-master, and arrived at Pier 27, foot of 
Vesey Street, about six o'clock a. m., where we 
had to wait for the custom-house ofiicer until past 
one o'clock p. m. After being released by him, 
took carriage, and had our baggage and effects 
taken to the station for Philadelphia, at the foot 
of Camden Street Wharf, and at four o'clock 
found ourselves on the railroad for Philadelphia, 



HOME. 225 

where we arrived at eight and a half o'clock p.m. 
Found our house all prepared for our reception, 
and friends to receive us, and with thankful 
hearts rejoiced in our safe arrival at our own 
home, amidst our many dear friends. 

My own health, after leaving the ship, became 
better; but my dear husband's continued good, 
never being confined to his bed a day during our 
travels. I subjoin a letter written by him to our 
hostess at St. Croix. 

Philadelphia, Sixth mo. 4th, 1864. 
Elizabeth Brady. 

Esteemed Friend: It was a very pleasant morning on 
the first of June, that we entered the Narrows in the Bay of 
New York, Staten Island on the left and Long Island on the 
right, commanding the narrow frith over which is mounted a 
number of large implements of defence, calculated to hurl death 
and destruction to any who dare attempt to invade our country. 
As we looked over the beautiful hills and elegant mansions that 
are scattered all over the island, I was ready to cry out, " Never 
have I seen in foreign lands anything to compare to the beauty 
of the scene before me. ' ' Truly, it is a magnificent sight of hills 
and vales, splendid mansions, green fields and highly culti- 
vated, with lawns, with copses of trees and shrubbery taste- 
fully intertwined, giving grace and beauty to the splendid 
mansions that adorn the island. Then on entering New York, 
at the foot of Vesey Slip, where a market is held for the better 
accommodation of shippers and farmers' craft, we see a great 

20 



226 JOURNAL. 

variety of meats and vegetables of the finest kinds, which 
filled my soul with gratitude to the Author of all good for giv- 
ing us a fruitful country, and inspiring our yeomanry with 
industry and management to plant and reap such abundant 
harvests. It is here we have the best of beef, mutton, veal, 
pork, and poultry of every kind, potatoes, turnips, cabbage, 
salad, peas, beans, asparagus, beets, radishes, tomatoes, and in- 
numerable other vegetables that abound on every man's table. 
There are all the fruits of the season, as strawberries, cher- 
ries, apples, gooseberries, and other garden fruits, besides your 
tropical fruits, far excelling anything we could get except in 
Havana, such as oranges, lemons, bananas, pineapples, &c. 
Thou may ask where are the sapodillas, sugar-apples, alligator 
pears, water-lemons, &c. These tasteless things we leave for 
islanders to luxuriate upon. Again contemplate with won- 
der and admiration the city of New York, second to none 
in magnificence and grandeur, containing over a million of 
inhabitants, grown up to importance within two centuries, 
and now tied to every part of the country by iron rails, on 
which run with steaming swiftness innumerable cars, con- 
veying men of business and pleasure through richly cultivated 
countries, on which abounds wheat, corn, oats, grass, and all 
kinds of produce fit for the consumption of man and beasts, 
and you have but a faint picture of what we have returned to 
enjoy. Nowhere is there to be found on this habitable earth 
(that we have seen), so much to make man happy, with free- 
dom of thought and liberty of action (with the exception of 
one dark spot south), as this "land of freedom and of the 
brave." 

It is with deep concern that I state that my dear wife, on 
leaving Bermuda, had on shipboard quite a smart attack of 



LETTER. 227 

bilious fever ; as she recovered from it, and crossed the Gulf 
Stream, she had a chill succeeded by fever and cough, which 
caused my spirit to sink within me, though we live in hopes of 
its only being temporary. 

We have learned since arriving in New York, that Shotwell 
died on his passage from Bermuda to New York, and that his 
remains were conveyed to his friends. 

"We left Bermuda on the twenty-second of fifth month, and 
arrived on the first of sixth month, making our passage in ten 
days, experiencing high winds and calms, turbulent and quiet 
sea, sea-sickness and many deprivations, but our captain made 
it as easy and comfortable as he could. We had on board fif- 
teen passengers, and our cargo consisted of potatoes, onions, 
tomatoes, and a few other vegetables. The odor was extremely 
unpleasant, but we got along as well as the time, conveniences, 
and circumstances would admit. Our best regards salute all 
who may like to hear from us, including friend Dunlap, whose 
kindness we shall always remember with gratitude, in which 
my dear wife unites. And now adieu. 

Thy friend, 

J. Wilson Moore. 



CHAPTER XYI. 

Conclusion. 

Having returned to our friends and to our na- 
tive land, from whom we had long been separated, 
we found the ravages of war on the decrease; al- 
though not yet terminated, everything appeared 
far more favorable than when we left the coun- 
try. At that time rebellion was rife in all the 
South, and found many sympathizers in the Korth 
and West. The Union people, the lovers of free- 
dom, were very sanguine as to the result, not- 
withstanding the horizon at many different times 
was dark and portending, attended with the thun- 
der of cannon and roar of artillery, and the loss 
of great numbers of valuable lives, which caused 
the spirits of many to die within them, not see- 
ing what the end might be. But the masses of 
the people felt assured they had a veteran at the 
head of government, the friend of humanity, a 
"good man and a just," who, with the Divine 



REFLECTIONS. 229 

blessing, was capable of guiding the ship of state 
to the peaceful and honorable port he and they 
had ever kept full in view, until rebellion should 
be crushed and made to " appear odious," even 
to its perpetrators, while the fetters of the bonds- 
men should be broken, and the oppressed and 
downtrodden suffered to go free. All we, who 
were anxiously watching for the dawn of that 
day, were made to rejoice and give glory to Him 
who can turn the " captivity of his people," by 
instrumental means, when the intelligence reached 
us, and went forth to all the inhabitants of the 
land, proclaiming freedom the length and breadth 
thereof, through our noble-souled President, Abra- 
ham Lincoln. Our prayers and thanksgiving went 
up to Heaven ! with high praises to Him who liv- 
eth forever and ever, in that His arm had been 
raised for the deliverance of the oppressed. 

This proclamation brought about a wonderful 
era in the history of the world. Above all is the 
record, written in letters of gold, on the tablet 
of the souls of the four millions proclaimed free! 
with " a Moses at their head, fleeing from the op- 
pression of Pharaoh!" This proclamation called 
them out of their graves to such a resurrection 
as the world never saw; not all the annals of 

20* 



230 JOURNAL. 

liistorj can furnish a parallel with it. Must we 
not believe then that nothing short of a High 
Hand and Outstretched Arm could have effected 
a miracle of so great magnitude, so fraught with 
justice and humanity, of these having been dead 
to the world, but now called to come forth, to 
stand up like men, and " lay aside their grave- 
clothes." Large numbers of them had escaped 
from the tyranny of their oppressors since the 
commencement of the war, the natural result 
that might have been anticipated by their short- 
sighted oppressors as the sequel of their rebel- 
lion. ITumbers of them went, too, into the Union 
army, and stood up like men, side by side, with 
their white brethren, discharging, as the latter 
say, their duties faithfully. Who can doubt the 
working of miracles in the case of this people? 
The child of liberty once carried through the 
streets in effigy, in the city of Boston, placed in 
a coffin covered with a black pall! followed by 
its mourning friends, who saw it deposited in the 
grave yawning to receive it, scarcely supposing 
it possible it could ever know a resurrection, 
with public sentiment crying out on every hand, 
" Crucify it, crucify it, it is not tit to live." God's 
ways are higher than man's ways, and His 



REFLECTIONS. 231 

thoughts higher than man's thoughts, oft hring- 
ing about His own purposes, through the very 
means man has designed for their overthrow. 
For many* long years was that holy child of lib- 
erty entombed ! Few dared to raise a voice that 
it would ever rise again. The African slave-trade 
brought so much gain to the craftsman, that not 
a dog dared to raise his tongue against it, while 
its proceeds were bringing great wealth to the 
North as well as South. England was being rich 
through that channel, so that " the carpenter en- 
couraged the goldsmith, and he that smoothed 
with the hammer, him that smote the anvil," 
until it was ready for the soldering, when they 
fastened it with chains, with handcuffs and gags, 
that it should not be moved. All this was done 
in the open light of day, while the people stood 
aghast and looked on in silence. Those were 
dark days ! days in which the spirit of Antichrist 
had great power, like the dragon of old, whose 
tail drew the third part of professing Christen- 
dom ; but his power could not continue ; it was 
in the hands of the people, and for them to say 
whether it should be crushed. 

Who were to be pioneers in the great work ? 
was the question that oft arose, but very quietly, 



232 JOUKNAL. 

among the friends of freedom. Perhaps Maria 
Child was the first who wrote a work on the 
subject when it was agitated. Her book was 
able and full of truth, but the people were afraid 
to read it ; it was sufficient to place the mark of 
Cain on any one who had such a volume in his 
house. Elias Hicks, one of the apostles of this 
age, bore a strong testimony against this great 
evil, not partaking of the unrequited labor of 
slavery for a long series of years, and on his 
deathbed, when past speaking, motioned to those 
around him to remove some covering from his 
bed that contained cotton brought from the Slave 
States. Many others in the Society of Friends 
have refrained, as well as he, from the use of 
slave-grown labor. About this time Benjamin 
Lundy, true to the cause, commenced the work, 
but in great weakness, finding few who felt will- 
ing to engage actively with him in it. At last 
he determined on going to a foreign land with a 
large number of the people of color, and there 
by kindness and industry, under the hallowed 
influence of freedom, show to the world what 
could be done by this people under circumstances 
favorable to libert}^ and equal rights. He de- 
signed to give his whole soul to the work as a 



REFLECTIONS. 233 

lb 

letter from him, now in my possession, will show; 
but he did not live to perfect his philanthropic 
and Christian enterprise. He saw it was out of 
his power to carry out his project in this pro- 
fessed "land of the free and home of the 
brave." 

Near this time William Lloyd Garrison, one of 
the invincibles, came forward and enlisted in the 
cause. He commenced to edit a paper on the 
subject, under the most unfavorable circum- 
stances, being poor himself, and occupying a 
small house and shop. In order to write for his 
paper he had to resort to a little retired closet 
adjoining his small shop, where his labors were 
continued until he had the paper ready for the 
press, and when it came out it caused so great an 
excitement that nothing but his life could pay the 
penalty. He was accordingly dragged through 
the streets of Boston with a rope around his 
neck, after giving him a coat of tar and feathers, 
and every other indignity that could be offered 
him ; but it did not deprive him of life, as the 
poor deluded people supposed it would. 

A higher life was before him, and he, like all 
other reformers, saw his course was up the rugged 
Alpiue rocks, with footprints marked with blood; 



2S4 JOURNAL. 

but for all this he did not slacken his hand. His 
noble soul, being the embodiment of freedom 
and right, still stood forth undaunted, publishing 
his paper amid showers of invective and abuse, 
simply following that voice that leads its votaries 
by a way they know not, until they are brought 
to " a good land and a large, where there are 
springs and pools of water." This has been ful- 
filled to the letter with the pioneers of liberty ! 

We can trace that little band, who first enlisted 
in this cause, from stage to stage as they pro- 
gressed — 

" Brave and undaunted in their Master's cause, 
Bold in contending for Messiah's laws." 

That was a day that tried men's souls ; " but the 
friends of the holy child that had been put in the 
sepulchre saw by the light of Bethlehem's star 
that in God's own time it must have a resurrec- 
tion;" that its birth was in Divinity, undying in 
its very nature ; that neither death, hell, or the 
grave could hold it ; that angels watched over to 
guard it until " death and hell should deliver up 
its dead," having power to burst the bands of 
death, to feel its new life, though " crucified in 
spiritual Sodom in Egypt," where this divine life 
and birth in all ages has met with a like fate. 
The little band continued to increase. The 



REFLECTIONS. 235 

darkness that had hung over the land seemed to 
portend the dawning of a better day. They felt, 
as they braved the rough sea of life and encoun- 
tered all that the enemies of freedom could heap 
upon them, so much greater would be their joy 
when that port, long looked-for, should be gained. 
These labored on amid floods of calumny that 
were cast out of the mouth of the dragon, with- 
out fear or dismay, no difficulties being too great 
for them to encounter, no mob violence deterring 
them from going steadily forward in the work. 

Among these were both men and women, who 
braved the current of public opinion. They had, 
with heavy hearts, gone round the broken walls 
of freedom like some in olden time. They saw 
the gates, too, were burned with fire, while few 
had yet come to the work ; the cry of those, like 
Sanballat and Tobias, going forth on every hand, 
that all their efforts to build the walls were so 
weak and vain, that a "fox running thereon 
would prostrate it to the ground." They heeded 
not such discouraging views, although they often 
encountered Foxes "no better than Herod." 
They continued to work on, regardless of being 
stigmatized as fanatics. They found it needful, 
while building the walls, as l!Tehemiah did, to 



236 JOURNAL. 

hold " the weapons of defence in one hand while 
they bnilt with the other," which weapons were 
love to Grod and man. 

Many of these might truly be called saviours 
of their race, having thrown their whole souls in 
the work. 

Among these was the intrepid Lucretia Mott, 
the persevering and whole-souled Esther Moore, 
and a host of others, who engaged in the same 
cause with them, l^ot fearing to be found at the 
burning of Pennsylvania Hall, where an Aboli- 
tion meeting was then being held, or where mobs 
were gathered as they held their meetings at other 
places ; or in court rooms, where poor downcast 
fugitives were to be tried and condemned for en- 
deavoring to gain their liberty. Who can wonder 
that war came ? This last was considered a sin 
of the deepest dye, and worthy of death. These 
noble women followed them in the dark recesses 
where they were oft secreted for a sham trial, 
and in almost every instance sent back again 
into slavery. These friends of humanity re- 
mained by their side, striving to pour balm into 
their afflicted hearts, telling them a better day was 
coming, — little thinking this better day would 
come in this generation. The writer of this has 



REFLECTIONS. 237 

been present with them on such occasions. These 
were called fools, as well as madmen, while their 
souls glowed with the light of God's spirit. ISTot 
only was this work progressing amid the tumult 
and noise in the I^orth, but it was carried on in 
the far sunny South : 

" Ordained to be the pride of lands, 
Whose joyous spring should bloom as Eden, 
And rivers sweep o'er golden sands." 

But not without the risk of life or limb; as 
where freedom lies buried, all iniquity abounds. 
"No one who ventured there could indulge the 
fond belief that he should return unscathed. To 
this general rule there were exceptions; those 
who would not harm the head of any one, and 
whose kindness to the writer of this article will 
never be forgotten. They were the opponents 
of slavery — lawyers and judges — but they were 
weak. Judge Bullock, of isTew Orleans, among 
these, and lawyer Hennan, both eminent in their 
profession, were exceedingly kind to me after 
my return from the calaboose, where I went with 
my friends from the JSTorth and in company with 
the mother of lawyer Hennan. We saw there 
barbarities too shocking for humanity to perpe- 

21 



238 JOURNAL. 

trate, and which I shall ever regret were not 
made public on my return; but it will not do to 
look back, the great work is now before us. 

The subject of emancipation found its way to 
our legislative halls at an early day of the Aboli- 
tion movement; but was found needful to bring 
it before Congress or the Senate with great care, 
as the slaveholders were sanguine in the belief 
that the child of liberty had been buried so deep, 
and " watch so strictly kept," that no legislative 
action could penetrate the dark recesses where 
they had laid the body, and where the seal of 
compromise had been placed upon the stone at 
the mouth of the sepulchre. 

We see a parallel case with poor benighted 
Cuba, as well as all the other islands where sla- 
very now exists. They are all wallowing in 
blood, dirt, and filth, while Catholicism and 
priestcraft reign supreme, and the priests are 
daily seen going to their devotions in long robes. 
But God is just, and his justice will not forever 
slumber. We oft asked each other the question, 
are these ministers of Christ, who like the Apos- 
tle Paul, felt that "necessity was laid upon him, 
and woe would be unto him if he preached not 
the Gospel ?" If they were ministers of the Word 



REFLECTIONS. 239 

of God would they not be "preaclaing liberty to 
tbe captives, and the opening of the prison house 
to those that are bound?" and make it their 
business to leave nothing undone to "unbind 
heavy burdens, and let the oppressed go free ?" 
to break every yoke, to inquire " of the Divine 
oracle what they should do to be saved?" and 
bring to mind the law of God, violated in their 
hearts, both past and present, in holding the lives 
of their fellow-creatures in the same way they 
held their cattle, having no more regard for their 
feelings of affection one for another, " than the 
beasts that perish." 

John Quincy Adams was the man for that day 
and hour, but he could only bring in his views in 
the most cautious manner possible, as it appeared 
very likely his life would pay the penalty if he 
persevered to any considerable extent. ItsTot long 
after this, other speeches were made, touching 
the cause of freedom, but with caution, as all 
knew that death, or the most violent measures, 
would be used against any one who dared to 
come forth boldly, and place the enormous crime 
in its proper light. 

The life of a Lovejoy was at that time sacri- 
ficed on the altar of slavery. Many others met 



240 JOURNAL. 

with the same fate, while our modest though 
noble-souled Sumner, came out against the giant 
cause, in strains of deeply inspired eloquence, at 
different periods of the crusade, for which the 
strongest invective was poured out upon him. 
He heeded it not ; he knew the " cause was holy, 
as well as the ground on which he stood." He 
made many good and well-timed speeches on the 
subject, calling the system " barbarous." Not 
only Sumner stood forth, in those days of peril, 
undaunted. Stevens well knew that "noble 
ends required noble means " to carry them out. 
These sons of the morning saw the bright light, 
— the star of imm^ortal glory, — high up in heav- 
en, while God's work and image was being 
desecrated before " the shrine of Moloch," and 
galling fetters were on the American citizen, 
whose cry has ever been, " Am I not a man and 
brother?" Thaddeus Stevens has, for a long 
series of years, been one of those whole-souled, 
outspoken men ; he has stood as the champion of 
liberty, advocating the cause of justice and hu- 
manity, " firm as the Eock of Gibraltar." For 
many years has this subject been treated in Con- 
gress with much ability and zeal, and even at 
this time the aged veteran is standing forth in 



REFLECTIONS. 241 

our legislative halls, as in the vigor of youth, and 
with strength of mind as in earlj manhood. I 
have heen watching his movements during the 
past winter and have found him truly great. 

If prayer will prove effective in holding him 
to the warm hearts of the friends of justice and 
right, he will still live on, pleading the cause of 
injured innocence. But should the slender 
thread of life, in the providence of God, be cut 
asunder, may his mantle fall on one or many 
spirits worthy to plead the cause he has so long 
and so ably advocated. 

Truly this is a wonderful age in which we of 
this generation live, — an age of soul-stirring and 
thrilling incidents, — an age of great discovery in 
the arts and sciences. The submarine telegraph 
being the topmost round on the ladder yet 
reached, — daily bringing the occurrences and in- 
cidents of foreign lands in connection with our 
own; wonderfully calculated to promote peace 
and happiness in every clime. Much more might 
be said of science and the arts, but the present 
must suffice. This is an age, too, of light and 
shadow, which have been signally intermingled 
in the cause of justice and the equal rights of 
all; an age in which the most unusual course 

21* 



242 JOURNAL. 

has been pursued. In the passage of laws by our 
last Congress, history cannot furnish a parallel. 
Little necessity has been felt for the co-operation 
of the successor of our late dearly loved and 
lamented President, whose spirit, as it winged 
its flight to a higher sphere, seemed to rest on 
many he left behind, whose light has shone, 
since his departure, with greater lustre, seeming 
to have caught the same inspiration as his mantle 
fell. 

His speech in Independence Hall, in our city 
of Philadelphia, is now brought to mind, as he 
was going on to Washington, before his inaugur- 
ation : " If he was favored, after he was placed in 
office, to lift the heavy burdens from the shoul- 
ders of the oppressed, he should feel himself the 
happiest of men ; but should he be unsuccessfal 
in his efforts to do thi|, he would much rather 
suffer death on that spot." This was the whole- 
souled man, and happy instrument in the hand of 
God, in " proclaiming liberty thoughout the land, 
to all the inhabitants thereof;" in unbinding 
heavy burdens; and he was the man for that 
"hour," — the right man in the right place — 
letting the oppressed go free. Sad indeed is the 
retrospect, and our hearts sicken at the thought, 



REFLECTIONS. 243 

that his useful and valuable life was sacrificed to 
pay the penalty for his devotion to the cause of 
humanity. He was assassinated the spring fol- 
lowing our return from the West Indies, at the 
close of the late calamitous war, by those who 
should have honored and reverenced him as the 
deliverer of this great nation from the thral- 
dom of slavery, without the shedding of a single 
drop of blood. Had he lived, his deep and think- 
ing mind would have kept those who called 
themselves the " chivalry," so much in check, 
that long ere this, in all probability, they would 
have been sufficiently humbled to have come 
back into the Union, with a sense of their folly 
and madness in promoting rebellion, in order to 
subdue the !N"orth, and carry their abominable 
idol of slavery over its fair domain. But with 
the encouragement received from our present in- 
cumbent, they have tried in vain to throw off the 
shame and mortification of their doings, he hav- 
ing acted in concert with them in their wild 
schemes again to bring about slavery in its 
second advent; to bind fetters on the emancipa- 
ted, or compel our government to pay a price for 
them ; either of which would be unreasonable 
and monstrous. 



244 JOURNAL. 

Some of the States lately in rebellion have 
concluded that " discretion is the better part of 
valor," and are now submittino^ to the benisrn 
laws enacted during the past winter by the late 
Congress. Such a Congress, in the absence of a 
President, as will astonish the world in all com- 
ing time with its history. Such a Congress as 
the fathers of the Revolution, great as they were, 
were, in the estimation of the w^riter, weak in 
comparison with the one just passed. Such a 
Congress as has carried death and destruction to 
slavery, by the powerful arm of legislation. 
Their thrilling words of justice and humanity 
have pierced the vitals of the rebels of the 
South, as well as their sympathizers of the I^orth, 
like a " well-directed arrow from a bow." Such 
a Congress as has caused the very ground on 
which they stand to feel its shock, as of an earth- 
quake, ready to swallow them up. Indeed, a vol- 
canic shock has been felt by them, during the 
last eventful session, while large numbers of 
them felt its force in the speeches held forth, 
with undaunted courage, by the venerable Stev- 
ens, by a Sumner, a Howard, a Wilson, a 
Wade, and a Butler, as well as our own William 
D. Kelley, and many others who stood firm and 



REFLECTIONS. 245 

unwavering in the cause of justice and right. 
We love to linger over speeches so full of soul 
that not one dark spot dims their lustre. 

But how is it with the poor, fallen South ? 
Those who said, not long since, the " man of 
color had no rights that the white man was 
bound to respect," which I readily admit to be 
true while they deprive them of their God-given 
rights. A change has come over their dreams; 
and the change is so great in their tone of feel- 
ing as to solicit the vote of the colored man, in 
order to restore a lost reputation, and place them 
where they were six years ago. Some of the 
States have elected colored municipal officers, in- 
stead of the whites ; the colored being now 
eligible for any office in the gift of the people. 
Even the most sanguine Abolitionist could not 
have believed it possible that such a change 
would have come over this nation in &ve short 
years. Had any one prophesied such a state of 
things would have been brought about in this 
country, we should have said, perhaps, as one of 
old, " If the Lord should make windows in heav- 
en, might this thing be." But we see "with 
God all things are possible;" that he has opened 
the windows of heaven, and has poured out one 



246 JOURNAL. 

of the greatest blessings upon this nation, while 
he has ordained that the " transgressions of the 
wicked shall correct them, and their backslidings 
reprove them, — -justice and mercy being the habi- 
tation of his throne." And now, at the time I 
am writing, comes the intelligence from our State 
Legislature, that all prohibition is removed rela- 
tive to allowing colored persons to ride in our 
city cars. For all which we praise and magnify 
the great Being who " turns the captivity of his 
people as the streams of the south." 

I have written the foregoing article, not only 
to diffuse correct information in some parts of 
our own country, but think this work may find 
its way in the West Indies, and, possibly, in 
South America; greatly desiring that it should 
reach slave-land, on the Island of Cuba. They 
will see what oppression and tyranny have done 
for all lands, sooner or later. The sum of all 
villanies is now in the zenith of its power on 
that island. But it has but a short race to run; 
the sands in the glass are but few, and the meas- 
ure of iniquity wellnigh full, as we saw it in 
mental vision when there, and have oft seen it 
since. The day of retribution is at hand, as they 
that " bow not in mercy will bow in judgment." 



REFLECTIONS. 247 

The " Babylon " slavery is destined to fall, and 
it will there as certainly as it has in this land ; 
and " great has been the fall," desolating the 
Southern States with blood and carnage, i^ow, 
poverty and famine are staring the people of the 
South in the face; they are merely preserved 
from starvation by begging from the Union 
people of the [N'orth, against whom they have 
been fighting. 

The deluded slaveholders have brought them- 
selves to poverty and disgrace, through cupidity 
and wicked devices, to continue those they had so 
long oppressed in perpetual slavery. Let this 
condition of things be a warning to all who still 
cling to the barbarous system. Remember a day 
of retribution is at hand, when the judgments of 
an offended God will be poured out upon all 
those, while they will be the authors of their own 
destruction, as this is the portion of the wicked. 
Turn then from the evil of your ways and doings, 
if happily you may find forgiveness through sin- 
cere repentance. 

"Well may a lamentation be made over the 
cities where slavery still reigns, as it was over 
Jerusalem: "How oft would I have gathered 
thee as a hen gathers her chickens under her 



248 JOURNAL. 

wings, but thou wouldst not," therefore is thy 
house left unto thee desolate, and the things that 
belong to thy peace hidden from thine eyes. At 
thy fall, as of Babylon of old, many will stand 
afar off to see the smoke of thy burning, " weep- 
ing and wailing, sa^dng, Alas ! alas ! for this great 
city," and the profitable traffic in slaves, which 
has made so many rich through the abundance of 
her slave labor, for no man buyeth her merchan- 
dise any more. But all nations have partaken of 
the wine she has mingled, flavored with the odor 
of the sighs and groans heard on plantations un- 
der the lash, from the den of the calaboose, in 
painful separations, or on board slavers as they 
pursued their course over the trackless ocean, 
freighted with human flesh, with God's image in 
their souls, to be offered for sale to monsters in 
human shape, to men who heed God's law no 
more than they "glorifying themselves and liv- 
ing luxuriously," saying in their hearts, " I sit as 
a queen, I am no widow, I shall see no sorrow." 
" Therefore shall her plagues come in one day, 
death, mourning, and famine, for strong is the 
Lord God that judgeth her." " The fruits thy 
soul lusted after are departed from thee, all that is 
dainty and goodly has departed from thee ;" and 



REFLECTIONS. 249 

thy nefarious traffic in slaves has departed from 
thee, which was thy great revenue. Many will cry 
out, "Alas! for that great city, that was clothed 
in fine linen, purple, and scarlet, and decked 
with gold and precious stones, and pearls," pro- 
cured by the slave trade, " for in one hour is so 
great riches come to nought." As of old, many 
will *^cast dust on their heads, weeping and wail- 
ing," while the " light of a candle shall be no more 
seen in thee," lighted up by the abomination of 
slavery; "neither the voice of the bridegroom, 
nor that of the bride," decked with the proceeds 
arising from twenty to twenty-two hours of un- 
requited toil from the poor, hard-driven, down- 
trodden slaves, while their sighs went up to 
Heaven, with every passing gale, in prayer deep 
and low for deliverance from the barbarism of 
those who required this of them ; the air being 
tainted with the pestilential breath of slavery, 
from sea to sea, and from the rivers to the very 
ends of the earth. But thanks be to the great 
Author of all good, in that our land is now the 
land of liberty, and America an asylum for the 
oppressed. 

May we now and ever adopt this motto. 

All hail to the Land of the Free ! 

22 



MEMOIR 



OF 



DOCTOR JOHN WILSON MOOHE. 



BY 



GEOEGE TEUMA]^, M.D. 



DOCTOK JOHN WILSON MOOEE. 



The memory of those with whom we have had 
frequent intercourse, and whose qualities of mind 
endeared them to us, seem to call after their de- 
parture from our midst, for some proof that, in 
their labors and walk in life, we remembered and 
honored them because of their devotion to truth ; 
to their endeavors for the improvement of their 
race ; to their warm charities dispensed with lib- 
eral hand ; to the general good which, like a light, 
shone continually about them, giving proof that 
they were way-marks for others, — ^' As a city, set 
upon a hill, which cannot be hid." 

It is with such feelings that we portray the life 
of Doctor John Wilson Moore, believing that a 
recurrence to some of the circumstances con- 
nected with his earthly pilgrimage, may be the 
means of promoting like action in others. 

He was born in Talbot County, on the Eastern 

22* 



254 MEMOIR. 

Shore of Maryland, twelfth month, 17th, 1789. 
His parents were Kobert and Mary Wilson Moore. 
His father emigrated in 1783 from Ireland in his 
younger life, and settled in that part of Mary- 
land. Having been bred a physician, he engaged 
in the practice of his profession in the neighbor- 
hood of Easton, where the subject of our memoir 
passed his earlier life. There was nothing strik- 
ingly peculiar that marked the period of his 
youth other than a sweet and an amiable disposi- 
tion, which endeared him to those of every class 
with whom he mingled. 

In 1807 he entered the Pennsylvania Hospital, 
in Philadelphia, as a pupil of medicine ; it being 
the custom at that time to receive such, for in- 
struction in that institution. During this noviti- 
ate he pursued his studies, attending to the duties 
assigned him in the hospital, as well as the usual 
courses of lectures at the University, where he 
graduated Avith honor about the year 1812. Af- 
ter this he was appointed one of the resident 
physicians of the hospital. From this period his 
professional success realized his expectations. 
[N'aturally of an affable disposition, the bedside 
of the sick tended to improve it ; and few among 
his fellow-practitioners exhibited more of that 



MEMOIR. 255 

tender regard and kindly interest whicli so much 
attracts the patient, and induce almost unlimited 
confidence. 

In consequence of this he became a favorite in 
many families as a " beloved physician." His 
politeness seemed peculiarly his own. It was not 
imitation, but grew out of an innate sense of the 
proprieties of demeanor in the sick chamber, and 
in social intercourse, which ever made his pres- 
ence agreeable. It was the politeness of the true 
Christian, and showed itself equally the same to 
all, no matter what their position in life. This 
manner attached him to many from the belief of 
its sincerity, and of its growth out of a pure heart ; 
hence, every one was made easy in his presence, 
and was prepared to look to him as counsellor 
and friend. 

In the year 1813 (tenth month, 6th), he mar- 
ried Mary Lewis, the daughter of Mordecai and 
Hannah Lewis, of Philadelphia. After this event 
they established their residence in Spruce Street, 
near Third, where they remained up to the year 
1864, about fifty years. A few years after his mar- 
riage, his devotion to his professional duties ap- 
peared to have an undermining efifect upon his 
constitution, and evidences were apparent of pul- 



256 MEMOIR. 

monary disease. Believing that he might re- 
move this by proper treatment, he temporarily 
surrendered his practice, and leaving his home, 
commenced a system of horseback-riding, and 
exposure to the free air of the country — by which 
judicious course in a few months, a change was 
effected, with his entire recovery; when he re- 
turned to his family and friends renewedly pre- 
pared to encounter the anxieties of medical life. 
This recovery appeared permanent from that time, 
as we hear no more of a similar condition of his 
system. His practice continued to increase largely 
from this period, and we find him closely atten- 
tive to its various duties, ever keeping in view 
the necessity of his standing constantly ready to 
meet the calls of those who might need his aid or 
counsel. His honorable care in this respect, was 
met by a corresponding feeling of regard from 
those in charge, as many testimonials of their 
esteem and appreciation of his skill were fur- 
nished from time to time, showing how deeply he 
had impressed their minds by his truly Christian 
regard, as well as for his matured abilities in his 
profession. 

In the year 1816, in her sixtieth year, his 
mother, Mary Moore, departed this life. The 



MEMOIR. 257 

impress of the purity and loveliness of this amia- 
ble woman was evidently largely visible in the 
character of the son. She was one who was held 
in high esteem among her friends and neighbors, 
as is evinced by testimonials to her worth and 
excellence, both from her monthly and quarterly 
meetings, as well as from those who were not of 
the Society of Friends. She was a minister in 
the Society for about nine years ; her first ap- 
pearance occurring about her fifty-first year. In 
this, her calling, she appeared to be highly ap- 
preciated, giving evidence that she was led by a 
Spirit which was qualified to dispense in due sea- 
son the consolations of that Gospel which ever 
promotes the growth, comfort, and edification of 
all who may come within the outspreading of its 
life and power. 

During the period between the years 1825 and 
1827, his mind was deeply impressed with the 
difficulties which were then growing in the So- 
ciety of Friends, and which seemed sooner or 
later, to look towards a surrender of that relig- 
ious freedom which had so conspicuously marked 
the Society from its rise, or an entire separation 
from the discordant elements which were then 
assuming power and dictation. 

Having been early grounded in the simple 



258 MEMOIR. 

faith of the Society, with the enjoyment of its 
enlarged freedom, he was not disposed to surren- 
der that liberty, nor that faith which had been 
his blessed reliance, without a struggle, or to enter 
upon doubtful disputations on doctrines hereto- 
fore unknown to the body of Friends, or to em- 
brace opinions simply because they were fostered 
and forced upon timid minds, by those whom 
their confidence had placed in authority in the 
church. 

Trusting in the moving principle of Divine 
Truth in the soul, he clung closely to it, and 
awaited its direction, nothing doubting but that 
there would be a safe and an abiding place found 
for all those who would, in humility, look for the 
overturning hand of Him who seemed now ready 
to cleanse His tabernacle, and to separate the dead 
opinionist from the living child who could only 
look to the one Head, the Holy and True Father, 
for daily support and right instruction. At this 
time we therefore find him in connection with 
the many Friends, who felt themselves bound to 
the testimony which their fathers had borne, in 
connection with their own individual experiences 
of the manifestations of that inward light, which 
lighteth every man that cometh into the world; 
and which they believed stood separate and apart 



MEMOIR. 259 

from any conventional rule or words of doctrine, 
many of which were now brought forward as 
truth which had been unknown, or unheard of in 
the Society, as a bond of union. 

His extended sympathy in the direction he 
now took, with his firmness in counsel and gen- 
eral aid, were useful and encouraging, and tended 
to strengthen many in the position they felt them- 
selves bound to maintain before the world. 

In these movements he never failed, or gave 
evidence through life that he had mistaken his 
true position, but on the contrary, he appeared to 
grow in this grace, and in this saving knowledge, 
often imparting to his friends in social intercourse 
and otherwise, his faith and firm dependence 
thereon, being enabled at times to add strength 
to others from the clearness of the impressions 
made upon his understanding. 

In his services among Friends as a member 
concerned for the health and welfare of the So- 
ciety, he was faithful to his convictions, and, when 
questions of interest and importance were under 
examination he ever showed himself ready to 
look at things with an eye to the right advance- 
ment of the church, and the strength and comfort 
of all. In expression he was courteous and con- 



260 MEMOIR. 

ciliatory, and often showed that he was moved by 
true wisdom in the formation of his judgment. 

When it was proposed in 1833 to divide the 
Monthly Meeting of Friends of Philadelphia, held 
on Cherry Street, for the establishment of another 
Monthly Meeting at Mnth and Spruce Streets, 
our beloved friend was prominent in the move- 
ment, and aided the measure to its accomplish- 
ment. His connection with this meeting con- 
tinued for a number of years. 

In first month, 1855, his wife, Mary Lewis, de- 
parted this life ; a woman of quiet and retiring 
spirit. The sanctuary of home was her delight, 
there, she mainly worshipped, and exhibited the 
kindness of her heart by her attentions to their 
relatives and friends. This close retirement of 
his wife had in some measure an influence upon 
her husband, and although at this period he may 
have mingled less in general society than might 
have seemed desirable to some ; yet, his useful- 
ness in many directions was in nowise diminished, 
while those familiar with him, were often enabled 
to realize the force and value of his exemplary 
life, and to enjoy the loving genialities of his 
mind. 

By his marriage with Mary Lewis they had 
one child — a daughter, who claimed and received 



MEMOIR. 261 

the parental love and interest in its fulness. In 
the year 1833 she was married to Joshua Jen- 
kins, of Philadelphia, by which connection, a 
grandson was added to their family circle. Dur- 
ing the infancy of this grandchild, she sickened 
and died, to the solemn grief of her husband 
and parents, and of all who stood connected with 
her, whether in the near family relation, or in 
that of friendship. With all, she was honored 
and loved, and her departure from the midst of 
her friends was felt to be a deep and weighty 
bereavement. This great sorrow falling upon 
our beloved friend and his companion, was sub- 
mitted to by them with much Christian philo- 
sophy; while time, the healer of many breaches, 
brought with it calmness and resignation, with a 
firmer position upon that Rock, from which, no 
storm or tempest can remove. 

On the 17th of seventh month, 1856, he en- 
tered into the marriage covenant with Kachel 
Wilson Barker, of Poughkeepsie, I^ew York, a 
Friend and Minister, well known to the Society, 
and greatly esteemed. Joining her husband at 
his residence in Philadelphia, she became a 
member of the Monthly Meeting of Friends, of 
Philadelphia, held on Spruce Street. This mar- 

23 



262 MEMOIR. 

riage appeared to afford much, satisfaction to 
both, although it induced considerable change in 
his general course of life. The religious engage- 
ments of his wife, led her frequently from home in 
their fulfilment, in which services he felt bound 
to assist, and afford her all the aid his sympa- 
thetic mind could extend. On such an occasion 
in 1858 he accompanied her through parts of 
Illinois, Michigan, Upper and Lower Canada and 
of 'New York, the journey occupying several 
months in its accomplishment. The exposure 
incident to this journey had an injurious effect 
upon his health, and we find him returning an 
invalid, from which he did not recover until after 
a severe illness, being placed at times in a very 
critical condition. In this season of trial he 
manifested great composure, feeling at times the 
supporting power of that Presence, which alone 
is able to preserve in the deepest privations and 
conflicts. Recovering from this serious illness, 
he entered, as had been his wont, into the 
various duties devolving upon him as the head 
of a family, and assisting his beloved companion 
in the fulfilment of her religious engagements ; 
largely devoting himself with her, to the ameli- 
oration of the condition of the many poor who 



MBMOIK. 263 

had ever found in Mm a firm, liberal and sym- 
pathizing friend. 

In 1857 circumstances occurred whieh led 
them to believe it would be best to remove their 
certificates from Spruce Street Monthly Meeting, 
and connect themselves with Green Street 
Monthly Meeting, of Philadelphia. This was 
effected to their satisfaction, and he continued a 
member of that Meeting the remainder of his 
life. 

Some time after this removal, believing it would 
be right, they made a visit to Great Britain, 
travelling through England, Scotland, Ireland, 
and through parts of Germany and France, Dur- 
ing this journey, although much enjoyment was 
experienced in the examination of the scenery 
and objects of interest which those countries 
aftbrd, yet our beloved friend had often to 
wade through many deep and weighty trials 
of mind, in witnessing that disposition among 
Friends of England and Ireland, that he had 
so often to deplore in his own city and country, 
during the period of the disagreements which 
grew up in the Society, and culminated in a sep- 
aration in 1827. 

His endeared companion felt her mind, at 
times, drawn to meet with Friends in their 



264 MEMOIR. 

places of worship, and with others, and, when 
there, to open up truths and testimonies dear to 
her, and believed to be in consonance with the 
well-known doctrines and principles of the So- 
ciety of Friends, as proclaimed and spread be- 
fore the people of her own country. 

The attendance of the meetings of Friends 
was opposed, and measures taken to thwart those 
which might be proposed to be held among those 
not of the Society. These mistaken and misdi- 
rected efforts of zeal sorely tried and afflicted his 
tender spirit; but perceiving the supporting power 
of Infinite Goodness still near and mindful of 
them, he was encouraged to hold up the hands of 
his tried companion in that which she had un- 
dertaken, and we find them returning from their 
tour with renewed health, and with peace of 
mind, to the joy of their many friends at home. 

The condition of the people of color often 
brought him into much exercise of mind, and in 
company with his wife, he was found engaged 
religiously and otherwise, in the endeavor to 
ameliorate and improve their position as citizens 
of our common country; their rights, as such, 
he deeming valid and as sacred as those claimed 
by the white inhabitants. 

In 1859, in company with his wife, he visited 



MEMOIR. 265 

the Provinces of Upper and Lower Canada. In 
the Lower Province he located a school, a few 
miles from Chatham, near the *' King's High- 
way," for the children of the colored people, 
refugees from Southern slavery, who are largely 
settled in that section of the country. 

The settlement of this school grew out of the 
earnest concern and interest felt by his second 
mother, Esther Moore, for this deeply injured 
race, who, claiming the right, had fled from 
slavery to this place of safety, where, under the 
protection and guidance of the Colonial laws, 
they^had the opportunity to develop themselves 
into useful and intelligent citizens. To aid this, 
she had bequeathed an endowment for a school, 
which our beloved friend hastened to carry into 
effect, and was enabled to accomplish it to his 
entire satisfaction. 

In 1861, the settlement and school were again 
visited, and the school found in a favorable con- 
dition, giving promise of present and future 
good. His interest in its welfare continued un- 
abated during the remainder of his life. 

Esther Moore, the second wife of his father, 
was a woman of most excellent qualities, loving 
in spirit; her generous heart was often touched 

23* 



266 MEMOIR. 

with tenderness for the suffering classes of her 
race, and, so far as she was able, labored earn- 
estly for their advancement into higher positions 
of intelligence and usefulness. For the colored 
people, especially, she worked steadfastly and 
faithfully. Endowed with considerable ability 
to express herself, she was not wanting in making 
known to her friends and others what was agita- 
ting her own mind in behalf of the suffering and 
the dumb. Through a long life she never failed 
to manifest her zeal ; and, as above stated, in re- 
gard to the colored school in Canada, she left 
that as a memorial of the deep convictions of 
duty which had, through good and evil report, 
in season and out of season, been stirring her in- 
ward life to plead the cause of these poor, and to 
induce other minds to perform an equal part 
with her in lifting them up to a position of 
equality, before the law, with their fellow- 
citizens. 

During the early part of the war of the Rebel- 
lion, in the winter of 1862-3, his wife, suffering 
severely from laryngeal disease, it was deemed 
advisable for her to pass the winter months in a 
warmer and less variable climate. "With this 
view a voyage was undertaken to the West In- 



MEMOIR. 267 

dies, where they remained until the opening of 
the following summer. 

During their absence they visited several of 
the Islands, — Cuba, St. Thomas, Santa Cruz, 
Barbadoes, Trinidad, extending their visit to 
Demerara, in British Guiana. In these several 
visits they occasionally had meetings with the 
colored inhabitants, which appear, from their 
accounts, to have been acceptable services, and 
brought, in the effort, comfort to themselves. In 
this visit an opportunity was had, upon the Brit- 
ish and Danish Islands, to investigate the con- 
dition of the freed people; and although they 
did not find them, in all places, as far advanced 
as they had anticipated, nor the prejudices of the 
white inhabitants sufficiently removed to render 
them full justice and care, as to educational and 
other measures in which their pecuniary inter- 
ests were involved, yet the evidence was conclu- 
sive that freedom to them had been, and would \ 
continue to be, as it has ever been to all people, 
a great blessing. 

On their return they found our country still 
engaged in the same fearful and deadly strife. 
Designing men throughout the cotton-growing 
States had determined, if possible, to dismember 



268 MEMOIR. 

the government, or overthrow it, and a war of 
rebellion of the most heinous character was 
being enacted for that purpose mainly, and to es- 
tablish the system of slavery, as a permanency, 
throughout the nation. The effort, however, 
failed, after a struggle of four long and bloody 
years, in which many terrible battles were fought. 
Thousands were slain in these sanguinary con- 
flicts, and many severely injured. The whole 
land mourned during these awful struggles, be- 
cause of these deeds of death and sacrifice of so 
many valuable lives. In the spring of 1865, 
every effort on the part, of the slaveholders hav- 
ing failed, their country reduced to almost abject 
destitution, they surrendered at discretion, and 
with this, slavery, for which they had risked so 
much, against which a moral warfare had been 
waged for many years, fell forever. 

During these fearful and deadly conflicts our 
beloved friend was often found in weighty 
thoughtfulness. The principles which governed 
his own mind, and which he believed to be in 
harmony with the great Teacher of ]!»[azareth, he 
discovered were mainly unknown or unheeded 
by the people around him. He who came to 
preach peace, and not a sword; freedom, and not 



MEMOIR. 269 

slavery ; althougli owned as a leader, and regard- 
ed as a Saviour, was, nevertheless, forgotten in 
the present trial. Those who claimed to be His 
disciples hesitated not to engage in the fiercest 
battles, and to encourage all to follow in their 
footsteps. These. great and appalling movements 
among his countrymen gave our dear friend 
anxious and earnest concern. His love of coun- 
try was sincere. Freedom was dear to him. 
But the love of those great principles of eternal 
truth, infused into his soul by the all- wise Author 
of his being, was above and beyond all other 
things, and in this he found realized to himself 
that which could embrace all as brethren. In 
this, too, he was responding to the fundamental 
testimonies of his own religious society; and for 
the preservation of these, his spirit yearned that 
they might be appreciated, upheld, and main- 
tained. 

The many wounded, and sufferers from dis- 
ease, that were brought from the armies and 
battle-fields, and were placed in the military hos- 
pitals in and around the city of Philadelphia, 
largely excited his commiseration, and we find 
him exerting himself, in company with his be- 
loved companion, for their relief and comfort. 



'270 MEMOIR. 

I 

The tenderness of his spirit, and the loving man- 
ner through which his sympathies were accus- 
tomed to flow out towards the afflicted by 
disease, enabled him to approach these injured 
men, to the gladdening of their hearts, and the 
infusing of a belief, that, although separated 
from their families and friends, they were not 
forgotten in the hour of their desolation and 
distress. 

In the proclamation of emancipation put forth 
by President Lincoln, he was deeply interested. 
His sympathy for the poor slave had ever been 
earnest; the breaking of his shackles, a subject 
of many prayers ; and now, as these were about 
being answered, and the freedom of the bond- 
man prospectively secured, it afforded him a pure 
and a holy joy. This proclamation produced a 
new era, vdth a new adaptation of language, and 
new themes for thought and labor in our coun- 
try. The " freedman," as now called, stood out 
before the people, claiming help and asking for 
education and all the appliances which liberty, 
in her own right, could give, and which, being 
theirs, might enable them to take their places in 
this their new birth as citizens of our common 
country. In all this our beloved friend brought 



MEMOIR. 271 

his wisdom and his means liberally into use. 
We find him promoting "Freedmen's Associa- 
tions," designed to help these poor in any and 
every way which, after judicious investigation, 
seemed to promise success. 

To the free people of color in our city he ever 
extended help and encouragement. For the 
breaking down of the odious feeling of caste he 
labored faithfully; calling, at times, under con- 
cern, upon those having charge of the passenger 
railways, in respect to the cruel treatment exer- 
cised toward them, by excluding them from par- 
ticipating in the common use and benefit of the 
cars. He felt the evil and inconsistency of this ; 
for while we were professing to rejoice in the 
downfall of slavery, we were, in an assumed en- 
lightened community, acting counter in a petty 
and puerile manner towards this deeply injured 
people. 

After his return from the West Indies, he 
purchased a dwelling-house and grounds, in Ger- 
mantown, to which they removed in 1864. It 
was with some reluctance that he left his old 
mansion, in Spruce Street, which he had occu- 
pied so many years, and where he had passed 
hours of joy, as well as some of sorrow. But 



272 



MEMOIR. 



circumstances of health seemed to point to the 
necessity of the change, and when it was accom- 
plished, he appeared to enjoy it as a variation 
from close city life. He could now engage oc- 
casionally m gardening, which he appeared to 
enjoy with zest and cheerfulness, helieving it 
would be valuable as a promoter of health. 
However this may have been for a time, we find 
him in the early part of the summer of 1865, 
seriously and alarmingly attacked by disease, 
which, in its characteristics, resembled a chronic 
aftection, which had been a distress to him, oc- 
casionally, for many years. This fact led his 
anxious friends to believe that he might again 
recover, as he had at times previous ; but in this 
all were disappointed. His sickness was often 
deeply distressing, and towards the close, attend- 
ed with extreme pain, all which, however, he 
bore with Christian patience and fortitude, giv- 
ing the clearest assurance that his peace with his 
Heavenly Father was made, saying, " I see noth- 
ing in my way like a cloud, and had I my time 
to live over again, I do not know that I should 
be likely to improve it." Saying further, "If I 
ever missed my way, or found I was wrong, re- 
pentance has always brought forgiveness." His 



MEMOIR. 278 

bedside was a school of instruction in witnessing 
the meekness of his spirit. His close was calm 
and peaceful, — his countenance beaming with 
love and sweetness. Thus he departed, we trust 
to enter that habitation which has been prepared 
for all those who have sought, found, and hon- 
ored the one eternal principle on which ^11 life is 
based. 

In thus presenting the character and labors 
through life of our beloved friend, it will be no- 
ticed that no remarkably striking event is delin- 
eated in which to show any peculiar trait or bent 
of his mind, further than his large benevolence; 
his amiableness of manners ; his devotion to 
principles which he had embraced from convic- 
tion ; his watchful guardianship of those under 
his care; his attention in sustaining and encour- 
aging faithfulness to religious duties ; his sympa- 
thy with the afflicted and suffering, and efforts 
to relieve ; his patience and foi'titude wheu un- 
der trial, with his firm dependence on the Divine 
guidance in all his movenaents ; and his final re- 
liance upon that all^disposing Power in the clos- 
ing hours of his existence, All these may seem 
to be traits of character that are common to 
many; yet, when the aggregate is presented, 

24 



274 MEMOIR. 

they form a whole life admirably fitted to show 
the working of that inner sense of truth and 
government, w^hich alone flows from the Foun- 
tain of all wisdom and knowledge, and qualifies 
man to become a true servant in the dispensing 
of blessings on the pathway in which he is called 
to tread. We cannot doubt that, in thus fulfilling 
his mission on earth, the blessedness of a higher 
and a more glorious life is his, — the invitation 
being extended to all such laborers, " Come, 
ye blessed of my Father, inherit the kingdom 
prepared for you, from the foundation of the 
world." 

He departed this life on the twenty-fifth day 
of the sixth month, 1865, in the seventy-sixth 
year of his age, and was interred in Friends' 
Burial-ground, at Fair Hill. Previous to which, 
a large number of his friends and neighbors 
were gathered in a solemn meeting, and testi- 
monies delivered therein, showing the operation 
of the Divine principle as reflected in his life 
and conversation, with a call for others to be 
found equally faithful to manifested duty. 

Philadelphia, Twelfth month, 1st, 1865. 



